Add ingredients to cosmetic products

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  • #96602
    preciousia
    Member

    @Peter lol i don’t know about Biosensiya packaging. Good point i’ve never seen it. Their photo isn’t clear. Could always ask the company. Though it doesn’t bother me as much. I would decant it if i receive it. What essential oils did you find problematic? i am fond of Frankincense & Geranium. That’s the only EO i see. I don’t see any other problem ingredients. The formulations looks really good.


    With regards to ingredient compatibility. i think you’ve misunderstood it. i don’t intend to teach it. I meant to learn :) As far as i know… that’s all. i don’t know it all :) not a chemist 
    Oh course low pH can cause many ingredients to destabilise….but that’s not my concern since i am not intending to make a formulae.   i meant when mixing products from different brands. watching out for ingredients that may clash.


    something along the lines of these articles (not the best example perhaps, but you’ll get the idea)
    i was thinking simple straight forward ones like LAA and Metal Ions like Copper, Zinc, Iron…  

#96604
preciousia
Member

@Peter Regarding Matrixyl 3000. i had to find the source for you. :)

i quote Dr Todorov said in his book i purchased
Matrixyl 3000 may be applied concurrently or combined with some other
products/formulas. However, it may we prudent not combine with copper peptides,
particularly GHK-Cu, because Matrixyl 3000 also contains GHK peptide, and,
therefore the combined concentration of GHK might exceed the recommended
range.”


As Matrixyl 3000 contains copper peptide. 

corroborated here

#96605
Peter
Member

No, believe me Matrixyl 3000 doesn’t contain copper! You just read the sentence wrong. Matrixyl also contains GHK, this is only the peptide (amino acid) part. 

Copper peptide is GHK-CU, where Cu is the copper part, and GHK the peptide part. 
Matrixyl only contains Pal-GHK (where Pal is Palmitic Acid, and GHK again the peptide part, so no Copper) and Pal-GQPR (where Pal is Paltmitic Acid and GQPR is the peptide part). The only reason you can’t combine DMAE is because it’s very basic (high pH), while Ascorbic Acid only remains stable, and can only absorbed at a pH below 3.5. 
Here are the abbreviations:
Elements nr 29 copper: http://www.ptable.com/
#96608
Peter
Member

@preciousia

About your previous post. I understand you are not formulating yourself. But still even the two sites you mentioned are full of mistakes. There really is no problem with using a Vitamin C product and a salycilic acid treatment during the night. Green tea isn’t superstable, it is extremely unstable, and also resveratrol is very unstable. You can’t just put some resveratrol in water and believe it will stay stable (http://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/jf404155e). It’s nonsense that you can’t combine any product with the word “acid” with a salicylic acid product. I agree that retinol and retinoic can best be applied at night, there is some evidence that degradation products may harm your skin (https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3814709/#b19-ijerph-02-00147). But most importantly it simply degrades too fast.
And as I’ve said before no company adds pure copper, zinc or iron to a product. Besides a human body contains copper peptides naturally, together with ascorbic acid. 
I mean of course I want to say don’t combine this with that. But there is simply no research proving many statements on the internet. The only way to find out is if companies are showing us the stability data, but that’s never going the happen. So I don’t think we can say anything about this, unless we find good quality scientific studies ourselves.
#96610
preciousia
Member
@Peter You’re right. Yes. the 2 sites aren’t good, i don’t endorse anything they state on their sites.
in fact i can’t even find a good source over the internet with similar information to what i am looking for!
Generally with anti-oxidants, the power powerful they are, i find… it is directly correlated to their oxidative stability.  

> It’s nonsense that you can’t combine any product with the word “acid” with a salicylic acid product. 

Agreed… rubbish!

Any other pointers to add about combining products from different brands, what to look out for?
#96611
preciousia
Member

@Peter thanks for clarifying that about matrixyl :) 

#96630
preciousia
Member

when i used The Ordinary Buffet + The Anhydrous Ascorbic Acid yesterday… my face tingled!

any corelation?
#96633
Peter
Member

@preciousia

I guess that’s the 23% vitamin c. It’s an extremely high amount of vitamin c. For some 5% can be sensitizing already. For almost everyone not used to 15% vitamin c some redness and stinging may occur, you need to introduce it slowly in your routine. More than 20% vitamin C (especially ascorbic acid) can be quite stinging and a bit irritating. So don’t apply too much and introduce slowly. And I would start with only one product, otherwise you don’t know which product causes the stinging.

#96641
preciousia
Member

@Peter Totally agree with you to go slow. Though it’s not the case here.

It’s not my first time using 23% Ascorbic Acid. Previously i have used higher concentrations LAA dissolved in water. i started using it daily for close to 3 weeks now. It did not tingle all the other time. It started to tingle only after a change in the products used that night (i used a mask prior) … it also tingled more after adding the Buffet which contains Matrixyl 

 
#96643
Peter
Member

And what if you apply the buffet on its own? Could also be the anhydrous delivery system of the vitamin c. I think trying them one by one is your only option to find out what tingles.

#96646
preciousia
Member

@Peter The Buffet on its own don’t tingle :)

I’ll find out what’s the issue here.
#96656
Peter
Member

@preciousia

Unless you have skin allergies, I really think it’s the 23% vitamin C, because of its formulation it’s a very potent product.
Deciem does have some other products which are very good, like the ethylated vitamin C products and the copper peptide serums, read the description part on Ethyl Ascorbic Acid on bulkactives.
#96657
preciousia
Member

@Peter It could be the one off masks that i was using. no more tingling now. :)


I’m familiar with Ethyl Ascorbic Acid…. it’s still new and not as well supported by medical studies. Deciem’s Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is pretty expensive. 
#96666
Peter
Member
I don’t know if ethyl ascorbic acid is easily converted to ascorbic acid indeed. But most studies look promising.

I’ve been using the “Buffet”, “23% ascorbic Acid Suspension”, “10% niacinamide” and “Caffeine Solution 5%+EGCG” a couple of times by now.

Personally I find the 23% Ascorbic Acid quite strong, maybe I’m going to use it once a week, or as a spot treatment. While I’m using a very small amount, I do get red somewhat irritated spots, especially on my forehead. And I find it really hard to avoid air flowing back in the tube. Maybe I could decant it in an airless pump bottle, although the plastic they use might be air tight and UV-protecting, while not all airless pumps have UV-protection properties. And the watery solutions, like the caffeine is almost impossible to decant. Niacinmide is stable enough, so I’m leaving that in it’s original packaging anyway. 
I really want one of the derivates so I can combine it with the Niacinamide, I’m not sure which one yet. I like the Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate most, but that’s an oil and doesn’t contain vitamin E. I like a product that doesn’t leave on oily film on my skin. Did you try the other vitamin C products?
Why did you buy so many products, it’s almost impossible to apply more than 2-3 or 4 products at the most? And why did you buy the Alpha Arbutin and Azelaic Acid products?
The caffeine solution is very slightly stinging, but hardly noticeable. At the end of the day my skin is more shiny/oily if I use the Niacinamide, Caffeine and Buffet under my sunscreen however, and that’s something I really don’t like. I haven’t used the products very long, so I will keep trying this routine. 
#96670
preciousia
Member

@Peter with ethyl ascorbic acid, i prefer to wait and see… not until i see more studies.. as the price is so high and replacement easily available.


I haven’t started using Caffeine

So far i have used

– Vitamin C LAA 23%
– Vitamin C Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate  20%
– Buffet
– Azelaic Acid

23% Ascorbic Acid is ok for me on a daily basis but i am not fond of the formulation. Will stop buying after mine is used up (30% left)

You’ll be pleased to know the 23% Ascorbic Acid comes in a tube now. Hate the dropper bottle packaging (air and klutz risks)

With airless bottles. if it is not UV protected, it’s easy, put an opaque label around the clear parts or wrap aluminum foil like they do in the labs (learnt from reddit) 

aluminium foil will totally cut the UV to zero. better than some dark bottles.

I had an issue with my Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate decant. The bottle just squirts out the liquidy Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate! yikes… i need to find a different packaging. So i haven’t been able to do half face you suggested as 1 squirt = enough for whole face. i can’t seem to do half pump. must be the damn bottle i got. 

I’m queueing the Caffeine and when i do… i will decant for sure. I’ll let you know if i am successfully able to decant. I do decant my own DIY LAA serums and they are watery… no problems… it depends on the airless bottle you get.

I haven’t received the other 2 vitamin C from The Ordinary i bought. I am looking forward to AA2G and MAP… both have a fair amount of research supporting their efficacy. Victoria Health sent it about 4weeks ago and the parcel went missing! now i need to wait as they are on back order!

My skincare routine is quite ridiculous. lol but it works for me… some days i use more products than my hands and toes combined (whole body, not just face)

Alpha Arbutin = tyrosinase inhibitor (for my number 1 skincare concern – pigmentation)

Azelaic Acid  = tyrosinase inhibitor and Dicarboxylic acids similar to monocarboxylic acids (eg salicylic acid).  It works by killing acne bacteria that infect skin pores. more info on WebMD
It also decreases the production of keratin, which is a natural substance that promotes the growth of acne bacteria.

Azelaic Acid is my HG active ingredient!! More for its ability to decrease keratin and comedones. See my review of 3 Azelaic Acid products here 

Love to hear how you go with the products. Now that you got paypal… i can share links with you internationally :) I hope you didn’t have to pay any import tax?

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