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I’m considering the Azelaic Acid, that’s why I asked. I don’t have acne, or pigmentation issues however. But Azelaic Acid is also an antioxidant, and like exfoliants, it prevent clogging of pores. People with rosacea use it as well. So maybe a nice addition. Although at the moment I already have too much products, I can’t use them all
@Peter if you don’t have that concerns… (no pigmentation, lol because of where you live, no rosacea, no acne) then there is no need for Azelaic acid. unless you are using it occasionally eg after a deep cleanse to shrink the pores.
did you have to pay import taxes for your Ordinary purchases?At the moment I’m using 2% BHA gel from Paula’s Choice. Because I do have enlarged pores and sometimes some clogged pores. Also once every 3 months I do a 65% Glycolic Acid Treatment at my dermatologist. Maybe I stick with the BHA then, although the anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties of Azelaic Acid are attracting, link.Also the The Ordinary Lactic Acid products contain fragrance unfortunately (Ethyl 2,2-Dimethylhydrocinnamal), so I can’t use those. Shipping was free, and I didn’t need to pay import taxes, because the package wasn’t sent from Canada, but a distribution center in Europe.But if I’m using the following products I think it’s already hard to make a workable routine, while I see so many other interesting products. Although with the following products, I think I do get most beneficial ingredients:– Decubal Cleanser (ph 4.3, link)– Uncover Cleanser Dry Skin– Toner (not sure which one to use)– PC 2% BHA exfoliant– 0.02% retinoic acid cream– The Ordinary Buffet– The Ordinary 10% Niacinamide– The Ordinary 5% Caffeine– The Ordinary 20% Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate– Uncover Moisturizer, 5% vitamin c, 5% Niacinamide, 2% licorice extract– Derma Face Sunscreen SPF30 (link)@Peter if you are using BHA.. you will benefit from Azelaic acid. but don’t waste money and don’t buy it yet. I will compare The Ordinary against Azclear and Finacea. I don’t like the silicones in The Ordinary.
in my review.. i shared Azelaic Acid helps me with my clogged pores and also shrink my enlarged pores (better than BHA tbh)Someone on reddit posted the ingredients… i’ll share that, i am not sure where they got it. asking. waiting for reply.
Ingredients List (alphabetical order)Finacea GelAzelaic acid, Benzoic acid, Disodium edetate, Lecithin, Polyacrylic acid, Polysorbate 80, Propylene glycol, Purified water, Sodium hydroxide, Triglycerides (medium chain).Azclear LotionAluminium magnesium silicate, Azelaic acid, Colloidal silicon dioxide, Glycerol, Macrogol 400, Phenoxyethanol, Povidone, Purified water, Xanthan gum.@Peter regarding your routine
– Decubal Cleanser (ph 4.3, link)– Uncover Cleanser Dry Skin– Toner (not sure which one to use)– PC 2% BHA exfoliant– 0.02% retinoic acid cream– The Ordinary Buffet– The Ordinary 10% Niacinamide– The Ordinary 5% Caffeine– The Ordinary 20% Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate– Uncover Moisturizer, 5% vitamin c, 5% Niacinamide, 2% licorice extract– Derma Face Sunscreen SPF30 (link)Toner – probably an astringent to tighten your pores… i like witch hazel (alcohol free), it is anti-bact too. cheap I pay under AUD$10 for 200-300 mlOn the whole, i think the routine is very good. You are likely getting Vitamin A, Vitamin B3, Vitamin C. Is the 10% Ordinary Vitamin B3 combined with 5% B3 in Uncover too much B3? Do you know what plant oils are in Uncover mosituriser? what are the ingredients?From your routine… i have to critique you are not getting enough other antioxidants for your anti-aging routine… rather than use sole ingredients, i prefer you use antioxidant cream/serum eg Reservatrol, Ubiquone. perhaps even occasionally copper serum after your chemical peels.i am with you about The ordinary having so many single ingredients… i prefer a blend of multi-actives. I have purchased Skin actives UV repair cream, Brightening Cream and Collagen serum. My skin concerns are pores, pigmentation, collagen and anti-aging.I’ll like to add the Skin actives anti-aging cream…. but i have enough on my plate and still using The Ordinary Buffet now. After that i will use Hylamide SubQ …In general I’m very pleased with my Ordinary products. For now I don’t think I’m going to replace the Buffet, Niacinamide or Vitamin C product. Because I apply multiple serums you will dilute it, so it’s not going to be 15% Niacinamide. Also I was already using a toner with 2% niacinamide, a moisturizer with 5% niacinamide and a sunscreen with 3% niacinamide, so my skin is quite used to niacinamide.Ingredients Uncover Moisturizer (fragrance free and no phototoxic plant extracts):Aqua, Cyclopentasiloxane, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Niacinamide, Sodium PCA, Glycerin, Propylheptyl Caprylate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Tocopherol, Caprylyl Glycol, Evodia Rutaecarpa Fruit Extract, Ergothioneine, Sodium Hyaluronate, PEG-75 Stearate, p-Anisic Acid, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Xanthan Gum, Lactic Acid.With my current routine I’m getting to best researched actives:– 0.02% Retinoic Acid– 10% Niacinamide– >10% Vitamin C (depending on what I choose from the Ordinary)– 1% Tocopherol and 1% Tocopheryl Acetate– 2% Salicylic Acid– 2% Licorice extractAnd hidden in the products some Peptides, Amino acids, Allantoin, Evodia, Zinc pca, EGCG, Soja Extract, Green Tea extract, Bisabolol, Phytospingosine, Willow Herb, Vitis Vinifera, Hyaluronic Acid, Ergothioneine, Sodium PCA.But indeed I wish to use an antioxidant serum with high concentrations of:Resveratrol, Genistein, Ferulic Acid, Astaxanthin, Quercetin, Pycnogenol, Green Tea Extract, EGCG, Silymarin, Idobenone, alpha lipoic acid, Glutathione, Superoxide Dismutase, Allantoin, Vitis Vinifera Extract, Ginko Biloba Extract, Sodium Carboxymethyl Betaglucan, Ergothioneine.I looked at the Skin Actives products, but I didn’t see anything I like. I did buy the Hylamide Finisher Matte12 and Hylamide Finisher HA Blur, because my skin can be a bit shiny during the day, hopefully one of these work. I didn’t buy the Hylamide Finisher Pore Delete, because the website said it was not suited for dry skin. Would have been nice if these products also contained some UV-filters.Actives and suggested %:
Of course, some companies may choose to use more or less than the recommended dosage.- Resveratrol 0.2%-1%
- Soluble in 1,3 Propanediol, ethanol/oil
- Soya Isoflavones 3-5%
- Soluble in water, non-denatured ethanol
- (phytoestrogens, soy lipids, lecithins, neo glycoproteins, phytosterols)
- Soy isoflavone glycosides are called genistin, daidzin, and glycitein;
- while the aglycones are called genistein, daidzein, and glycitein,
- respectively (chemical structures of isoflavone aglycones).
- Ferulic Acid 0.5% -2%
- Soluble in alcohol, propanediol
- Astaxanthin 0.00017% – 0.00053% (Source: Dr Todorov)
- Soluble in oils
- Quercetin 1-5%
- Soluble in 1,3-Propanediol
- Pine Bark Proanthocyanidins / Pycnogenol 3% – 10%
- Soluble in water, 1,3-Propanediol
- Green Tea Extract/ EGCG 1-3%
- Soluble in water, ethanol, 1,3-Propanediol
- Silymarin 3-5%
- Soluble in 1,3-Propanediol
- Idebenone 0.5 – 1%
- Soluble in ethanol, Propylene glycol
- Alpha lipoic acid 3-5%
- Soluble in oils
- Glutathione 1%
- Soluble in water
- Superoxide Dismutase 0.0001%
- Allantoin 0.5-2%
- Soluble in water
- Vitis Vinifera Extract / Grape Seed Proanthocyanidins 1-10%
- Soluble in non-denatured ethanol, 1,3-Propanediol
- Ginkgo Biloba Extract 1-5%
- Soluble in 1,3-Propanediol
- Beta Glucan 1%
- Soluble in: water
- Ergothioneine from Histidine
- this is new i am not sure
continued- Licorice extract 0.5-1% source
- Soluble in Ethanol
- Zinc pca 0.0088% – 1%
- Soluble in: water
- Bisabolol 0.5 – 1%
- Solubility: Soluble in ethanol, oils
- Phytosphingosine
- Soluble in: oil
- Willow Herb / Salicin 2% – 5%
- Soluble in : Propanediol
- Hyaluronic Acid / Sodium PCA 0.5 to 1%
- Soluble in : Water
As you may have noticed many ingredients are only soluble in alcohol (ethanol) or 1,3-Propanediol (Propanediol), and both solvers are not that great for skin. Btw allantoin is really difficult to dissolve in water, you can’t dissolve more than 0.5% allantoin in water without other additional solvents, at room temperature it will start to crystallize.Btw I’m certainly not going to formulate my own cosmetics. You simply don’t have the machines to test for stability and bacteria growth. Many ingredients need special stabilizing techniques, or can’t be used in the same formula, you can’t just throw all actives in one of those solvent. Many of the above mentioned actives are extremely unstable. Air stability is not the only issue with some of the ingredients, so an airless pump won’t solve those issues.It’s a nice list for searching for already formulated cosmetics though.@Peter Plant extracts are annoying and hard to dissolve!
Not sure about allantoin… could be different from different suppliers?Many of the actives require lots of solvents. So unfortunately that magical all in one product does not exist. A common complaint of some of the DIY with skin actives is the actives do not dissolve and you end up with grainy products. ugh.Tell me more about stability and bacteria growth? I know they test it in different conditions… eg bathroom is a good place to test it. And they do sell kits for testing. Though i am not getting to that. What Skin actives is teaching is basically that….”throwing actives into solvent”the prospect is fun… being in control of what you add in.What are you must haves of the list? Name 3?>What are you must haves of the list? Name 3?Pff difficult, all of them have benefits
. Although keep in mind none of them have been researched as well as Ascorbic Acid, Retinoic Acid and Niacinamide. Allantoin is difficult to dissolve in general at concentrations above 0.5%, it recrystallizes extremely quickly.I think I like the following most:– Resveratrol– Quercetin– Licorice Extract– Green Tea Extract– Soya IsoflavonesFollowed by:– Alpha Lipoic Acid– Beta Glucan– Ergothioneine– IdebenoneThe ones I would choose last:– Ginko Biloba Extract– Willow Herb Extract– Bisabolol– Zinc PCA@Peter nice picks!
Why are the ones you picked all challenging to dissolve?
– Resveratrol
– Quercetin
– Licorice Extract
– Green Tea Extract
– SoyaI think it is possible that you’ll fit all 5 into one product. Probably at Max concentration, only 3 actives.
in commercial products you rarely even see 1 active in high concentration.
@Peter what did you end up going with the ingredients you bought from bulk Actives?
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