- This topic is empty.
-
Posts
-
Some plant extracts are okay, and some you really need to avoid
– Evodia Rutaecarpa Fruit Extract– Licorice Extract– Green tea Extract– willow herb extract etcBut what you need to avoid/minimize (especially in sunscreens):– oxybenzone– ylang-ylang-citrus extracts– benzyl salicylate-sandalwood oil– geraniol– cinnamic alcohol– coumarin– sage extract– rosemary oil– and there are many more (these ingredients simply contain compounds like terpenes, champhor aldehydes etc that especially under UV-light will break down collagen, increase inflammation in skin, and for preciousia increase hyperpigmentation).Preciousia!
That was speedy! Thank you very much! <3Peter,Thanks for the list! I don’t think my skincare/sunscreen products contain these extracts although I do use a shampoo that has rosemary extract (which is diff from oil). Maybe it was the citrus extracts in the Biore sunscreen that made my skin red/irritated………What is the list to avoid for? i thought licorice root is good for the pigmentation.willow herb = salicylic acid. no noi shall remember that list. how handy…i do noticed that some “unstable” antioxidants is no good too for day use… they can actually break down and oxidise on the skin dermis… does that make sense?i am using the Mad Hippie Vitamin C serum
Ingredients: (Actives in bold): Deionized water, vitamin C (sodium ascorbyl phosphate), alkyl benzoate, vegetable glycerin, water, glycerin, sodium levulinate, sodium anisate, clary sage (salvia sclarea), grapefruit (citrus grandis), hyaluronic acid, amorphophallus konjac root powder, aloe barbadensis leaf, vitamin E (tocotrienol), ferulic acid, chamomile flower extract (recutita matricaria), sodium phytate, xanthan gum, hydroxyethylcellulose.i asked them regarding the grapefruit ingredient and they replied “Our Vitamin C Serum does not contain grapefruit peel (or grapefruit essential oil) which contains bergapten, a phototoxic agent found in the peel of many citrus fruits. It is safe for daytime use and is great for increasing the photoprotective qualities of your SPF during the day as it contains lots of antioxidants that ward off photodamage.”do you think it is ok to use in the day?@escherichia it brightens and lightens but nothing miraculous. good for maintenance as i had used very good quality actives under my derm’s products before. It’s as good as it gets for a Vitamin C derivative. It is better than using an oxidised L Ascorbic Acid serum.
for pigmentation, you really need an arsenal. the 5 essentials i told you about. The synergy of the 5 is what makes my pigmentation lighten.i don’t like silicones in my products as i tend to layer a lot of products and don’t like the occlusive quality of silicone which prevents the actives in the next layer from getting absorbed. i like that this product is compatible with my other products. i bought 2 bottles when they had a sale last. so will be locked in for 6 months of Mad Hippie Vitamin C serum
Will report long term usage later on. i saved 44% from RRP 😡The ingredients are just some examples of good extracts (licorice, willow herb) and bad extracts/oil (rosemary, lemon peel, ylang-ylang). But really there are dozens, there are many good plant extracts with antioxidant properties, but the list of irritating ingredients is even longer. Most of the times the ingredient dictionary of Paula’s Choice rates the ingredients quite well, comparing to what I’ve read in literature.I don’t know which parts the Mad Hippie serum uses, but most of the times they do use peel extracts/essential oils and they do contains some volatile compounds. Usually if I’m not sure what has been used I just skip the product. Downside is that most Vitamin C serums use high amounts of Propylene Glycol and Citrus Extracts. At the moment I use a Vitamin C Serum with 5% Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate and 5% Niacinamide, 2% Licorice Extract and 1% Tocopherol. I know it isn’t a very high percentage Vitamin C, but the products doesn’t contain irritants and has some other antioxidants.@escherichia In Lieu of my long term review. I refer you to see the mad number of good feedback on iHerb
over 600 reviews, 84% voted 4 and 5 out of 5and 62% voted 5 out of 5and some reviews are stupid too, they give it a poor rating for not “bleaching” their skintone.Just to clarify, this list is good?– Evodia Rutaecarpa Fruit Extract– Licorice Extract– Green tea Extract– willow herb extract etcduring summer. i will swap and use The Ordinary Vitamin C serums (i bought 4 kinds of vitamin c) and also Melano Vitamin C serumsi was quite concerned about this products i asked you on another thread
Zinc Oxide 3.6%… Sunscreen Titanium Dioxide 2.8%… Sunscreen Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice¹, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil¹, Coconut Alkanes, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin¹, Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquioleate, Limonene, Polyglyceryl-3 Ricineoleate, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment¹, Sodium Chloride, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter¹, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Oil, Rosa Canina Seed Oil¹, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (White Tea)¹, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Extract (Lemon Bioflavonoids)¹, Tocopheryl Acetate, Alumina, Aqua (Purified Water), Ascorbyl Glucoside, Calcium Ascorbate, Calcium Carbonate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Stearic Acid, Alcohol¹, Benzyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Citral, Linalool.
(¹) Certified Organic Ingredient
Product is preserved with Sodium Benzoateso much citrus! dangerous to use during the day?Yes the following 4 actives are good ones, but this is just a small list there are so many:– Evodia Rutaecarpa Fruit Extract– Licorice Extract– Green tea Extract– willow herb extract etcIndeed the Avalon Intense Defense Sheer Moisture SPF10 contains some problematic ingredients, like Limonene, Bergamot Fruit Oil, Orange Peel Oil, Lemon Peel Oil, Lemon Peel Extract, Benzyl Alcohol, Citral and Linalool.Avalon has not replied to me. I doubt i will purchase any more of their products, this was the first to try only.
@Peter thanks for clarifying. i was confused. Is willow herb extract etc good to use in the day too? I thought it is the botanical version of salicylic acid who will exfoliate the skin? technically not photo sensitive but i have experienced BHA making me more photo sensitive.
Applying BHA in the morning or evening shouldn’t make much difference, your skin gets more sensitive to the sun because you remove the top most layer of your skin. Those dead skin cells may clog pores and make your skin look dull, but it also protects your skin from UV-radiation to some extend. For good or bad plant extracts I would say have a look at the ingredient dictionary of Paula’s Choice, thus far most of her ratings agree with what I’ve found in literature. She only overrates sunscreen actives in my opinion, knowing that most filters are not approved in america it is a logical decision of course.
- The forum ‘Ask the Beauty Brains’ is closed to new topics and replies.