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Since water soluble ingredients have a harder time getting pass the stratum corneum, would l-ascorbic acid (in theory) have a better chance if it was incorporated into an emulsion?
That depends on how the emulsion is structured. There are oil in water emulsions and water in oil emulsions. And some emulsions break quickly, others more slowly. It certainly makes sense that if the emulsion could sort of encapsulate the AA with a lipid layer than it would have a better chance of penetrating. But it’s very complicated.
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