The Ordinary

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  • #92636
    preciousia
    Member

    Just bought 11 products of the Ordinary, 6 items arrived.

    Started with the 1st item, The Ordinary Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2%.
    What do you think of this product?

    Ingredients

    Ascorbic Acid, Squalane, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Coconut Alkanes, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glucomannan, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Acrylates/Ethylhexyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Trihydroxystearin, BHT

    They say it is not suspended in silicones, and there is no water. What are these ingredients? I don’t recognise it!

    Product info

    A Water-Free, Silicone-Free Stable Suspension

    Vitamin C is an effective antioxidant and its pure form of L-Ascorbic Acid has been shown to reverse multiple signs of skin ageing while brightening the skin when applied topically. This water-free, silicone-free formula provides 23% pure L-Ascorbic Acid which remains completely stable due to the absence of water. The system is supported with addition of dehydrated spheres of Hyaluronic Acid to offer visible surface smoothing alongside the benefits of Vitamin C. This treatment is ideally applied at bedtim

    #96538
    AngelaC
    Member

    I just ordered this too! Is this manufacturer too good to be true? The product line up appears top notch with untouchable prices. Can’t wait to hear how you like it.

    #96539
    preciousia
    Member

    So far I love the product, apparently it is suspended in oils. anhydrous formulae.

    The product works. So far it has made my skin brighter in the first 24 hours, it is supposed to be used last in your routine but I do use moisturisers after it. So far, I have used it 5 days. It is rather incredible how cheap this is!

    The packaging was so bad!!! The Ordinary have updated the packaging for this, but of course, i got the last of the awful bottles. They now package it in tubes.

    The serum is thick, like a lotion and the dropper bottle wasn’t able to dispense without causing a big mess! I had to decant it.

    By the way. Other than the packaging, the formula seems to have changed too.

    Ingredients of the product i received: Ascorbic Acid, C13-15 Alkane, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Dodecane, Isononyl Isononanoate, Acrylates/Ethylhexyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glucomannan, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Bisabolane, Trihydroxystearin, BHT.

    Ingredients on the website (new formulation)
    Ascorbic Acid, Squalane, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Coconut Alkanes, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glucomannan, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Acrylates/Ethylhexyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Trihydroxystearin, BHT.

    Only complaint here is BHT.

    I was going to try the anti-Aging Buffet which you are keen on next… I remember matrixyl has copper in it, which is incompatible with the L Ascorbic acid in the Vitamin C serum I am using. Need to double check.

    They also mentioned not to use the 10% Niacinamide and Vitamin C 23% at the same time.

    #96593
    Peter
    Member

    @preciousia
    But do the products remains stable? I’ve ordered the 23% vitamin c suspension, 5% caffeine+EGCG, the anti aging buffet and the 10% niacinamide.

    I”ve asked Jetske Ultee, the developer of Uncover Skincare. She said ascorbic acid is too unstable too add to cosmetic products, you can only work with fresh batches. So anything you buy in store or from the internet is oxidized to some extend, en oxidation also causes formation of substances that damage skin. Also did she try to formulate with Green Tea Extract and EGCG, but found that it was too unstable, and when she encapsulated the EGCG it was impossible to add enough to a product.

    Paulas choice claims to add effective concentrations of all her actives and they remain stable till the end of the POA date. They said they do specific batch testings for that. But to be honest, I believe Jetske Ultee more than Paula’s Choice.

    The Ordinary 23% vitamin c is anhydrous so maybe it’s a bit more stable? I would rather have bought the 20% Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate although that one was not available. The Ordinary does package retinol in dropper packaging. Which is strange because even Paula’s Choice said that you have to use special lighting conditions duringet production of the products, and retinol is so extremely unstable it has to be packaged airless and stored in a dark place. So are the products of The Ordinary really stable then? And besides they are quite simple, ascorbic acid works best for example if it’s combined with other antioxidants like vitamin E.

    #96598
    preciousia
    Member

    @Peter You bought?  :-O How did you pay? Love to hear your thoughts when you get it

    that’s why there is 0 water basd Ascorbic Acid serums on the shelves in Australia. Not stable. Only one i know of is the Drunk Elephant that came in recently, i have yet to check them out. 
    Jetske Ultee is absolutely right. I am not too familiar with PC products, i don’t want to comment on them. They have a high >20% C i have evaluated for a friend before, also using anydrous formulae.
    You know the downside to LAA in Anhydrous formulae? The stability comes at a price. The absorption is no where as good as LAA in water :) I wonder is other derivatives will be superior to Anhydrous Ascorbic acid.
    Greedy Preciousia bought 1 of every Vitamin C The Ordinary released. 
    They are on the way to me now. I’ll feedback. i like each vitamin C in isolation, so i can determine which Vitamin C works best for me

    Packaging: hate it. I have elected to decant all the damn droper bottles to airless ones. 
    #96600
    preciousia
    Member

    refer to this post by Caroline Hirons which founder of Deciem and The Ordinary Brandon Truaxe talks about Vitamin C

    he says:

    There are three forms in which Vitamin C is used in skincare today: 

    1. Liquids containing L-Ascorbic Acid:
    These serums all contain water to solubilize L-Ascorbic Acid. They all turn orange over time which means the Vitamin C changes from an antioxidant to a pro-oxidant as it has begun oxidation. At best, the ingredient becomes useless to the skin. Many brands own patents on making VC in this format stable but these patents don’t prevent the oxidation that is very obvious in the colour change. (Please note a patent offers exclusive use of an idea; it does not validate that the idea works but the consumer creates this association.) 

    2. Non-Liquids containing L-Ascorbic Acid:
    In these formulations, either the VC is suspended as powder in silicone bases (so no water) or the powder is actually supplied separately. If suspended, the majority of the VC is trapped within the silicone that is applied on the surface and only a small % will come into contact with the skin. Of this %, a maximum of about 33% can dissolve within the water content of the skin to be used and so from a 20% VC formula, 5% maybe exposed to the skin and 33% of 5% which is less than 2% is actually potentially used. If the VC is supplied as a separate powder to be mixed, there are two issues: a) powder weighs far less than water by volume and cannot be measured in ml as supplied. To achieve a 10% formula, you would need to fill your palm with VC powder and add liquid which means most such products would last less than 1 few days; b) the oxidation begins at the time of mixing anyway; it’s just less oxidation since the mixing occurs at a late stage. 

    3. Formulations Derivatives of Vitamin C
    These ingredients include Magnesium/Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP or SAP), Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ascorbyl Glucoside and others. These technologies are stable but release small amounts of Vitamin C so a 10% solution of MAP (which is high), may release 2-3% of pure Vitamin C at best. 

    The problem common to all of the above, first and foremost, is that VC is very cheap and can be obtained even at retail (nutrition shops) for $30/KG to last a lifetime of topical application so I am not sure why many of these formulations are so expensive. 
    #96601
    preciousia
    Member

    @Peter 

    What are your thoughts on Anhydrous formulae if only 2% is absorbed out of 20% (if true according to Brandon Truaxe)?

    #96606
    Peter
    Member

    @preciousia

    I made a paypal account and bought The Ordinary products, however I really wanted the 20% Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate product, but it was not available. I hope importing the products to the Netherlands is not that expensive, because that’s something I will only know by the time the products arrive at my house.

    I rather use a stable anhydrous ascorbic acid than an oxidized one. Oxidized ascorbic acid does cause free radical damage in skin, and every product in store with water and ascorbic acid is oxidized to some extend. In theory after about 2-3 days already a significant amount has oxidized, and you can’t see any color change during that first stage. The advantage of some derivatives is they are oil soiluble and can be better absorbed by skin and won’t oxidize as fast. But of course it has to be converted, the golden standard still is Ascorbic Acid. It’s just like Retinol and Retinoic Acid. Some rumors are on the internet that the palmitate part could cause skin damage, where they refer to Retinyl Palmitate and Ascorbyl Palmitate (and also Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate), but I don’t think it’s true. Thus far studies have only shown these ingredients to have benefits, and no studies have concluded Palmitate to have negative effects on skin.
    According this study you still get the benefits of an anhydrous Ascorbic Acid product, and also without water ascorbic acid is less irritating to skin.

    But about the decanting. You should really take care about that process. Many brands use special dubbel layered plastics, which reduce air flowing in the product through the packaging itself. I don’t know the name anymore, but Paula’s Choice uses these plastics for their Super Antioxidant Serums. I don’t know if the airless pumps where you decant it into use these kind of plastics. And also some people reuse there airless pumps, which might not be a problem for a body lotion, but for very instable ingredients it is, residues from tap water, the former product and reactive molecules will stick to the walls of the container (even after thorough cleansing and rinsing with alcohol) which destabilizes ingredients like Ascorbic Acid. And for some ingredients even during the production process destabilization may already occur, where decanting only worsens the situation even more. Personally I’m really unsure if I want to decant my cosmetics, if it’s a dropper bottle maybe its better, because you can’t make it any worse than that. But if it’s a tube packaging, I think trying to avoid air flowing back in the tube (so during usage of the product keeping the product vaccuum) is in my opinion probably better.

    I just don’t understand why they don’t use airless pump packaging, it’s easier to handle, it preserves the product better. I just think people like that very much.  And for the liquid formulas, of course that’s more difficult, but I bet there is airless packaging for that as well.
    #96615
    preciousia
    Member

    @Peter… how exciting. Finally you got paypal. YAY

    What Ordinary products did you buy?


    lol i will be receiving the Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate product in approx a weeks’ time. it was mailed out 8 days ago. I hope you won’t have to pay too much taxes on your items.


    omg. it is 20% that’s higher than what is recommended!

    >”I rather use a stable anhydrous ascorbic acid than an oxidized one. Oxidized ascorbic acid does cause free radical damage in skin, and every product in store with water and ascorbic acid is oxidized to some extend.”

    my thoughts exactly 100%


    > Retinyl Palmitate and Ascorbyl Palmitate (and also Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate), but I don’t think it’s true. Thus far studies have only shown these ingredients to have benefits, and no studies have concluded Palmitate to have negative effects on skin.
    so far only 1 study identified it. there were many more studies that refuted that it is detrimental when used in the sunlight. you want me to dig the studies out? i got them saved somewhere.




    i do ensure there is NO tap water… so far so good.
    similar to your advice. (thankyou) I do not decant tubes. only jars and dropper bottles as you introduce bacteria and air which each usage. Lucky me i ordered The Ordinary Vitamin C and it came in a dropper bottle and it was very user unfriendly as the product is thick in viscosity and the dropper was useless to dispense the products. so much product end up outside the bottle. 
    they have changed the packaging to tube now which will save me the hassle of decanting!
    >I just don’t understand why they don’t use airless pump packaging,

    PRICE.  (i think)
    Need to see what Deciem is using for their more expensive products. 
    Sometimes when companies use jars and crap packaging, i question their choices perhaps in other areas of the products. I am likely to stay loyal to a company who uses airless packaging too.
    #96617
    Peter
    Member

    @Preciousia

    I’ve ordered:
     – Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%
     – Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2%
     – Buffet
     – Caffeine Solution 5% + EGCG
    I’m really eager to try the Vitamin C suspension 23%, because its anhydrous and contains the gold standard Ascorbic Acid. Hopefully it’s stable!

    I really hope I can order the Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate 20% in the future (it now says “Email me when in stock”), it is far less irritating (acidic), better absorbable and much more stable than Ascorbic Acid. Although it has to be converted to Ascorbic Acid to have its skin benefits. I really want to know what you think of the Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate 20% when you’ve tested it. Sadly I guess the Caffeine solution can’t be stable with the EGCG. And the other downside of the products is they only use one (or two) active, while vitamin C really should be combined with other antioxidants.

    I also think it’s pricing. But still tube packaging costs maybe 0.10 and a bottle 1.50. Its more expensive, but if a product costs 45 dollars, I don’t think the extra 1.40 is a problem. But well maybe if airless pumps are becoming more popular producers will start using them.
    #96621
    preciousia
    Member

    @Peter 

    Even though L Ascorbic Acid is gold standard… i have a funny feeling it may not be as good in Anhydrous formula vs water soluble serum. It is stable! that’s for sure… the downside is you compromise on the quantity your skin absorbs. Brandon says you get 2% out of 20%. yikes.
    i have also heard that MAP doesn’t whiten /even skin tone as much as the other derivates but it is good for collagen… will test and see the best vitamin C for me.
    I’ll be using other antioidant, so that’s ok.
    > Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate 20% 
    I buy from Victoria Health. i preorder. so mine is already on its way to me.
    I will be in Vitamin C testing mode lol

    • Avalon Organics, Intense Defense With Vitamin C, Sheer Moisture SPF 10, 1.7 oz (50 g)
    • Mad Hippie Vitamin C Serum 
    • DIY Vitamin C Serum
    • Melano Vitamin C serum
    • Optilife Vitamin C 5ml sample
    • The Ordinary Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2% 30ml 
    • The Ordinary Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 10% 30ml
    • The Ordinary  Ascorbyl Glucoside Solution 12% 30ml
    • The Ordinary  Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% in Vitamin F 30ml

    Any suggestions of methods to test the Vitamin C fairly?

    Packaging wise… definitely pricing. the airless can cost 10x more easily. I don’t have access to wholesale pricing like them… the other issue is airless bottles sometimes (if poor quality) will give issues with pumps. I think they should just package everything in tubes. Cheap and good.  

    i sure hope MORE manufacturers use the airless bottles! sick of decanting.


    What are you using the Caffeine Solution for?  Not really sure what caffeine is good for other than depuffing eyes.



    I start The Ordinary Buffet tonight :)
    #96622
    Peter
    Member

    @preciousia

    Caffeine and EGCG may be effective in protection against sun damage (https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2958188/). Although the best researched ‘anti-aging’ ingredients remain Retinoic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Niacinamide, Alpha Hydroxy Acids and perhaps Soy Extracts (Genistein) and some polyphenolic compounds in Green Tea. Other actives are not that well researched.

    It would be nice if The Ordinary would add a product (in airless packaging!) with a mix of antioxidants for UV-protection for example with Resveratrol, Genistein, Caffein, Ferulic Acid, Astaxanthin,Quercetin, Pycnogenol, Green tea polyphenols, EGCG, Silymarin, Idobenone, Lipoic Acid, Glutathione etc…

    About the vitamin C serums. I only choose products that are in my opinion perfect ingredient wise, I don’t even bother trying products with fragrances or irritant plant extracts. I would throw away the Avalon product, it’s full of irritants, also it doesn’t contain a high amount of vitamin C. How much does the Mad Hippie contain? The Melano Vitamin C Serum contains fragrances. I guess the Optilife contains less than 1% Ascorbic Acid, because Vitamin E is usually added at a maximum concentration of around 1%. So I would say, try The Ordinary products. Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is the best derivative, and also it’s formulated in an oil base, so it’s extremely stable and can be absorbed quite effectively. The Vitamin C suspension is very interesting because it contains anhydrous ascorbic acid. It think it then comes down to what you like texture wise, and to which product your skin responds best. Maybe you can do a split face experiment, so you can compare how you skin responds. That’s what I do with many products.
    I’ve been reading this book on google:

    It appears there certainly are some ways to stabilize Ascorbic Acid in solution, look at page 215 and 216. Also sodium metabisulfite and other antioxidants stabilize ascorbic acid (https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16806754).


    #96629
    preciousia
    Member

    @Peter

    >The Ordinary would add a product (in airless packaging!) with a mix of antioxidants for UV-protection for example with Resveratrol, Genistein, Caffein, Ferulic Acid, Astaxanthin,Quercetin, Pycnogenol, Green tea polyphenols, EGCG, Silymarin, Idobenone, Lipoic Acid, Glutathione etc…

    if they do, they will label it and price it much much higher under their other brands perhaps Hylamide? The Ordinary is their entry level brand to shake up the industry. There is a product with antioxidants like you say BUT it’s not airless…. look into Skin Actives. They do contract manufacturing too.

    • Avalon is due for the bin, you’re right.
    • Mad Hippie.. i finished 1 bottle today. going to decant 2nd bottle and use it up. I thought of what you said about that citrus ingredient and i didn’t think it affected me.. but was scared nonetheless.
    • Optilife was a sample.. and you’re right. not much vitamin C there. misleading name they had.
    • Melano seems good with good plant extracts… i don’t have any issue with fragrance. and is oily … used last, so at least not on bare skin. lots of raves in the community about this product. gotta check what the fuss is about.
    Other than ascorbic acid in water… i think Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is the BEST or Tetra C i like to call it (same thing right)… however as it is mixed with coconut ingredients… i fear it may clog my pores.

    >The Vitamin C suspension is very interesting because it contains anhydrous ascorbic acid. It think it then comes down to what you like texture wise, and to which product your skin responds best.

    i like that there is no silicone to hamper with absorption but still…. it’s not the texture that puts me off. it the lower absorption rare, suspended ascorbic acid vs ascorbic acid in water … there’s just no comparison. the latter trumps big time. 

    They try to reinvent and get around the oxidative instability of Vitamin C and at the end of the day. the original L Ascorbic is still best!

    sigh… seems the best is still i make my own Vitamin C in water. The results were so so much MORE and BETTER
    imho the antioxidants can help prolong the Vitamin C from going bad… but only a little more… or rather… not forever. just like Skinceutical’s ferulic acid patent.

    Going to checkout your links! :) thanks for sharing. i’ll share another.. someone said something controversial to me about oxidised vitamin C.. going to dig it up and share with you.

    #96631
    preciousia
    Member
    Adverse reactions of topical Vitamin C” in “Vitamin C in Dermatology”:  http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3673383/
    “Minor adverse reactions include a yellowish discoloration of the skin, 
    hypopigmented hair and staining of clothes, which occur due to oxidative
    changes of Vit. C.”



    Topical Dehydroascorbic Acid (Oxidized Vitamin C) Permeates Stratum Corneum More Rapidly Than Ascorbic Acid
    * LAA in water is effective but absorption is slow
     – only about 12% of the AA in
    a topically applied 10% solution was absorbed after 72 hours 
     – This slow absorption poses practical
    limitations, since AA applied to the skin surface is subject to being rubbed off or washed away before it can be
    absorbed. In order to provide an effective amount of AA that is actually absorbed, high concentrations are used
    in topical products; 10% and greater concentrations are common. 
    Reference to absorption:
    * Lee WR, Shen SC, Kuo-Hsien W, Hu CH, Fang JY (2003) Lasers and microdermabrasion enhance and control
    topical delivery of vitamin C. J Invest Dermatol 121: 1118-1125.
    * Lee AR, Tojo K (1998) Characterization of skin permeation of vitamin C: theoretical analysis of penetration
    profiles and differential scanning calorimetry study. Chem Pharm Bull (Tokyo) 46: 174-177.
    * Martin GR (1961) Studies on the tissue distribution of ascorbic acid. Ann N Y Acad Sci 92: 141-147.
    12. SANCO (2004) Guidance Document on Dermal Absorption; Sanco/222/2000 rev. 7. European Commission
    Health & Consumer Protection Directorate-General.

    i thought this from The Ordinary is very relevant and it addresses my fears about L Ascorbic Acid in water going “bad” / oxidises.
    Vitamin C has a very strong ability to bind to free radicals of oxygen, as soon as it’s dissolved in water, it starts to oxidize and change the colour of the solution (from clear to slight orange and later to dark orange).
    When this change happens, two things occur:
    1) the activity of Vitamin C becomes disabled and
    2) far worse, the “antioxidant” formulation actually turns into a “pro-oxidant” formulation.
    The problem is that they may bind to oxygen in the bottle before you even buy any product claiming to contain antioxidants.
    or in plain english
    Very simply, if a Vitamin C formula turns colour, the Vitamin C is oxidized and the formula becomes potentially damaging to the skin.

    someone shared these 2 reports with me, bear in mind the research is not independent. Conflict of interest statement : The author is the founding member of ReCverin LLC, a manufacturer and distributor of vitamin C products for consumers.

    the company is almost sugggesting that it is better to put oxidised vitamin c on the face 
    They are promoting twice-oxidized vitamin C (dehydroascorbic acid! 

    :-O

    #96632
    preciousia
    Member

    ps: I received The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% in Vitamin F

    I’m gonna try that half face you recommended. 
    Both are in “oil” base, Comparing The Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% in Vitamin F vs Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2%
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