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Will do.. maybe not an official review but gladly share my impressions – for now nothing but Karite’ butter slathered on – not even my regular routine. : (
However, the eye serum was very nice and my eyes are the only part that of my face that is not bright red or feels like it’s on fire. I’ve only used it twice, but each time it did keep the puffiness under wraps and it appears that the color of my eyelids was a little more even. I have some puffy and some non-puffy days so only using it daily will tell me if it’s really working or if I’m just having a couple of non-puffy days.Ciao,LWhat makes you think I don’t know the required concentrations? If you are referring to my opinion on Paula’s Choice, she does use very low percentages, with the exception of the specific ingredients where she mentions the percentage. Paula’s Choice products are special because of the blend of actives, but if only one ingredient is used in the right concentration, you might as well use The Ordinary for example with only 1 or 2 actives.The Resist Super Oxidant SerumContains 5% vitamin C, which is oke but not very special. Then she mentions Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, which is usually added in a concentration of 0.001-0.002% (it’s a 0.1% solution with glycerin mostly, added at a final concentration of 1-2%). Probably the other actives are rather low as well, the product just looks and feels like a transparent silicone. High percentages of the actives she lists, would turn the product a slight green/brown color, but is completely clear.The Skin Recovery Antioxidant SerumContains 0.01% Retinol. There have been some studies showing 0.1% might work, but 0.01% is really on the lower end. Considering this product costs 34 dollars for 30mL, quite expensive. The first 5 ingredients are Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Olive Oil, Tocopherol. So in my opinion nothing special in there.Calm Redness Relief Repairing serum.The third ingredient is Hyaluronic Acid, this is usually added at a maximum concentration of 1%, but a typical concentration is 0.1-0.2%. Also many studies have shown, the most used form of Hyaluronic Acid can’t penetrate the skin. Ultra low molecular Hyaluronic Acid is still about 1000-5000 Dalton, about 100 times larger than zinc oxide. And she’s quite clever, almost all actives are listed after these kind of actives, that are never used above 1%. Look at the Resist Ultra Light concentrate serum, on the 10th place Hyaluronic Acid. After the Hyaluronic Acid, Niacinamide (needs at least 5%), Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (needs 5-10%), Tocopherol (needs to be at least 1%), and Resveratrol (maximum of around 1%, typical 0.2%). So do you know if those actives will work? I don’t, because they are all listed below 1%, and below 1% you may list everything in random order. What I know for sure, there are more preservatives present, than actives in this case.The Resist Intensive Wrinkle-Repair Serum.Quite expensive at 42 dollars for 30mL. It contains 0.1% retinol, which does work, but still rather low. The first 7 ingredients are fillers. Then Bisabolol is mentioned, this is added usually at around 0.1-0.5%. All actives including Vitamin C and E are listed after that.Resist 25% Vitamin C spot treatmentActive ingredient Ascorbic Acid, and ….. nothing… only Ascorbic Acid. Price 110 dollars for 30mL.CALM Redness Relief TonerAllantoin 5th ingredient, typical concentration 0.2%.Skin Recovery Moisturizer SPF30Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate 18th ingredient, below Superoxide Ddismutase (typical concentration .0008%)Those typical usage concentrations, are not directly proven concentrations. Allantoin can be used up to 2%, Panthenol and Niacinamide work best at a concentration of 5%. Many companies use less, and in different base formulation than the scientific studies. Also with many actives it is uncertain if they really penetrate skin, and can do anything.My opinion, Paula’s Choice is very clever in formulating products, that might look potent, but if you look more closely most actives are listed below the 1% line. Below 1% everything may be listed in random order. Paula’s Choice uses pre-prepared mixtures of actives, it is simply not possible to reach high final concentrations of actives. Therefore all in all you don’t know if the products can work. They might work, but you don’t know it for sure because you don’t know the percentages and most likely they are extremely low. Considering the price of the products, which is not dramatically expensive, but far from cheap, I really find that a serious issue. For those prices I want to know the percentage of the actives, I have multiple other products where I do know the percentage of the actives (take a look at this brand, it just list all percentages). If the products where drugstore prices, like 5-10 dollars, they were perfect (free of irritants and some actives), but prices ranging from 35-110 dollars, no then you are entering another category.
Of course a BHA at 2% works, but it works because of the Salicylic Acid, not because of the other “anti-aging” ingredients. So I rather choose the 2% BHA Skin perfecting liquid (29 dollar 118 ml), than the 2% Resist Pore Refining Treatment (44.25 dollar 118 mL).@Peter I sent to the freenet.de email info on glycol. is that email yours? did you get an email from me? i sent a snapshot of my book regarding glycols and which are bad.>What makes you think I don’t know the required concentrations?i don’t mean that i meant to see if it is possible to include all your wish list into 1 or 2 products. need to look at % solvent required, compatibility and also the pH.aka. like building your own skincare. designing what you WANT to include and what you don’t want to include! i’ll love to be able to do that! I have to deal with too much fillers usually.Paula’s Choice The Resist Super Oxidant Serumi tried one of their antioxidant serums, i don’t remember which one but it was blah too.The vitamin C they used is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and it is the 3rd ingredients. Looks good.I wonder if the high silicones will affect product absorption!Actives recommended dosage: (i am trying to find your wish list,hmmm where is it?)The actives you mentioned- Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate 0.5% – 2% but also up to 10%
- Niacinamide 4% (Randy confirmed this too)
- Tocopherol 1% is usually added but not the recommended. People have used up to 100%
- Bisabolol (ooooh i like this ingredient!) 0.1%-1%
- Retinol (max 1%, The Ordinary came up with 2%)
- Superoxide Dismutase (SOD) 0.0001% concentration (100 mcg in 120 mL cream)
- D-Panthenol 0.3 -5%
- Allantoin 0.5%
>Below 1% everything may be listed in random order.YES!>So I rather choose the 2% BHA Skin perfecting liquid (29 dollar 118 ml), than the 2% Resist Pore Refining Treatment (44.25 dollar 118 mL).i’m using Paula’s choice BHA nowYes I have used the Skin perfecting liquid too(go thru’ tbb forum looking for Peter’s wish list of beloved hg ingredients)do check back in. We love to hear from you!I am using- The Ordinary Buffet
- The Ordinary Azelaic Acid
- The Ordinary Vitamin C 23% + HA
- The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% in Vitamin F
i think next will be- The Ordinary Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 10%
- The Ordinary Ascorbyl Glucoside Solution 12%
- The Ordinary Retinol 2%
- The Ordinary Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA
- The Ordinary Caffeine Solution 5% + EGCG (not sure i need this since i do not have puffy eyes)
and i checked with the chemist at Skin actives
Buffet containing Matrixyl 3000 peptide is not compatible to be used with Vitamin C in any variant. Wait at least 30 mins befor eusing any form of vitamin C!!!it contains Pal-GHK and Pal-GQPRPal-GHK is the copper that is not good with Vitamin CI have confirmed that Moogoo Vitamin C serum contains 25% Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate. (“Super” Vitamin C). 25% Natural Vitamin E and 50% Olive Squalane.
Though more expensive, i prefer to use this after i use up The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution because i prefer Squalane over the coconut derivative that The Ordinary uses.Nothing wrong with 25% Vitamin E. They sell vitamin E oils in high concentration that people use directly on the skin.
@Peter This product you shared- Nicotinamide (vitamin B3) 5%
- Tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E) 1%
- Ascorbyl glucoside (vitamin C) 0.5%
- Hexylresorcinol 0.5%
- Resveratrol 0.2%
- Tocopherol (vitamin E) 0.1%
- Glycyrrhetinic acid 0.05%
- Tetra Peptide 30 0.004%
Really fond of hexylresorcinol, resveratrol, glycyrrhetinic too!the translation from google may not be the best, which Tetra Peptide is this?Some of the active ingredients are a lil low for my liking but i like the disclosure.until i see this ingredient list, really not a fan of silicone and your dislike of perfume has influenced m too!Aqua, Cyclopentasiloxane, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Glycerin, Silica, PEG / PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Titanium Dioxide, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Propylene Glycol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Phenoxyethanol , Arginine, Cetearyl Olivate, Ascorbyl glucoside, ethyl Linoleate, Hexylresorcinol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Perfume, Sorbitan Olivate, Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Resveratrol, Disodium EDTA, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, glycyrrhetinic Acid, Carbomer / Papain Crosspolymer, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl glycol, Tetra Peptide-30, Algin. (FVN100227.0020)
No freenet.de is not my email.>Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate 0.5% – 2% but also up to 10%Actually The Ordinary uses Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate as well at a concentration of 20%.>”Buffet containing Matrixyl 3000 peptide is not compatible to be used with Vitamin C in any variant”That’s not true, it contains only palmitic acid peptides (hence the name palmitoyl tripeptide, Pal-GHK). So the buffet does not contain copper peptides. Matrixyl and the Buffet can be used without any problem with Vitamin C. You could ask Deciem themselves, they also say it’s no problem.The peptide in the Louis Widmer product is Tetrapeptide-30, this is an other peptide than what is used in Buffet of the ordinary.I’ve used each Vitamin C product of the Ordinary for 3 days now, so not enough to say anything about the effect on my skin, but enough time to say something about texture and ingredients:Vitamin C suspension 23%+HA+ Best researched form of vitamin C+ Due to its formulation and form of vitamin C highest strength and most potent vitamin C formula from The Ordinary (also more potent than the Paula’s Choice 25% Spot Treatment, which costs 110 dollars for 30mL, compared to 5 dollars for 30mL)+ No fragrance or irritants. And it contains hyaluronic acid.– You can only use it at night, also because its a more heavy texture– Unfortunately it does contain some BHT (does have allergy, irritant en thyroid hormone disrupting properties)– Not compatible with a Niacinamide or NIOD CAIS productMagnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 10%+ No irritants or fragrant plant extracts+ Relative easy application, due to light cream texture+ Not as shiny as the Vitamin C suspension+ Also contains Tocopherol and Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil-+ It doesn’t have the highest concentration of Vitamin C compared to the other three products, although in general 10% MAP is still a very potent concentrationAscorbyl Glucoside 12%+ Definitely the most pleasant texture, spreads very easily and absorbs very quickly– Contains Propanediol (irritating) and Triethanolamine (toxic contaminations/allergen/skin sensitization).Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate 20%+ Most stable, oil soluble (so best skin penetrating) Vitamin C derivative+ Very high concentration+ Preservative free product+ Although it’s more shiny than the 10% MAP and 12% Ascorbyl Glucoside (it takes in my opinion more time to absorb than these two), it’s not extremely oily.– Extremely liquid runny texture, which makes it difficult to apply– Contains Solanium Lycopersicum Fruit Extract, which contains fragrance compounds similar to Balsam of Peru. A common phototoxic compound (link)Although initially I was excited to use Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, because it’s the best Vitamin C derivative. But because of its liquid texture and the tomato extract, I think I will use the 10% MAP during the day, and will alternate between the 10% MAP and 23% Vitamin C suspension at night. Because I really want to use the 10% Niacinamide at night as well, but this can’t be used with the 23% Vitamin C suspensionThe Moogoo Vitamin C serum with 25% Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate looks very good indeed! Or at least the three ingredients are good. But I’m a bit hesitant because I think it is extremely oily, and I’m looking for a Vitamin C product I can apply during the day. And also 25% Tocopherol is way too much, it has been found concentrations up to 2-5% are safe. Because Tocopherol also absorbs UV-radiation to produce free radicals, heavy sunlight may produce skin reactions. Also Tocopherol is the most frequent allergen in sunscreens (link). More is simply not always better.
At the moment I really like the 10% MAP from The Ordinary for daytime use and at night I use the 23% Vitamin C Suspension or the 20% Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (although I don’t like the tomato extract in it). But I will look around if I can buy and try the Moogoo as well, maybe it’s okay for the night. I wonder if they use an airless bottle or just a pump bottle.@Peter Ah. could you pm me the email so i can fwd you the attachment on glycols? that is if you want it.
>Tetrahexyldecyl AscorbateThe Ordinary has a habit of including formulations at far above the recommended dosage. Even Niacinamide is recommended only at 4-5% and yet they have a 10% version.The % i provided is only as per recommendations, there are companies/brands that have included lower/higher than recommendations… of course. proceed at high % at your own risks.Matrixyl 3000Matrixyl™ 3000 is an anti-aging product from Sederma. “Matrikine” is the term proposed for fragmented matrix peptides able to regulate cell activity. Matrixyl™ 3000 contains two matrikines, Pal-GHK and Pal-GQPR. Acting as messengers of cutaneousrestructuration and repair, these two peptides work synergistically to restore and maintain the skin’s youthful appearance. Matrixyl™ 3000 is useful in anti-aging products and wrinkle treatment products such as gels, serums, lotions and creams.
@Peter Yes the feedback of the Moogoo is OILY! I think they mean for it only to be a spot treatment, though i am inclined to apply it on my entire face. And yes good point about Vitamin E and UV. I think this is a night time product as I have also noticed sunscreens only include the synthetic versions of Vitamin E (not because of costs).
Thanks for the link, http://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/tocoph032014FR.pdf, will check that out!The Ordinary Vitamin C Comparisons
I feel tempted like Peter to break out my Ascorbyl Glucoside 12% instead of staying disciplined to finish using my LAA 23% and my other water based Vitamin C serum i am currently using.Do you think you could use Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate 20% in the day? Personally i prefer to use the water based MAP or AAG in the day and AT or LAA at night.
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