What are the “best” sunscreen ingredients?

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  • #96541
    preciousia
    Member

    @Peter yes. Urea and Diazolidinyl Urea are different. 


    I know “formaldehyde” almost as a dirty word. What are the implications of it?


    >Phenoxyethanol is actually allowed in “natural” cosmetics.
    gee i didn’t know that. Thanks for sharing!
    #96546
    Peter
    Member

    I know it frequently causes allergies, irritation and in animal studies it has proven to be carcinogenic.

    #96550
    preciousia
    Member

    @Peter Yikes! Carcinogenic isn’t acceptable  :-S

    i found this on Diazolidinyl Urea 

    Safety Measures/Side Effects:

    A lot of controversy surrounds the safety of diazolidinyl urea. Many believe it to be both toxic and carcinogenic, mainly due to the fact that it’s a proven formaldehyde releaser. However, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated the available data on this ingredient (and reevaluated it in 2006) and concluded it as safe to use on cosmetic products at a maximum concentration of .5%. Their studies demonstrated it to be neither toxic nor photosensitizing. However, tests did show it to produce mild skin irritations in some (1 out of 1000), so this ingredient should probably avoided by those with very sensitive skin.

    source

    #96557
    Peter
    Member

    Yeah well, from all preservatives I believe the following are the worst ones:

    • methylchloroisothiazolinone/methylisothiazolinone
    • quaternium-15
    • 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diolaka (AkaBronopol)
    • diazolidinyl urea
    • imidazolidinyl urea
    • DMDM Hydantoin
    But I don’t think any cosmetic product is really dangerous. With the allowed concentrations, the side effects of all cosmetic ingredients are most of the time so extremely minimal. But for example with the sunscreen filters, I think you are certainly able to say some have fewer side effects than others. And in that view, I don’t get it why companies still want to use some filters (like Benzophenone-3 or Homosalate). The FDA is simply too slow with admitting new filters, although the FDA does some very strict testing which also has it advantages. 
    #96559
    preciousia
    Member

    @Peter  OMG :-O


    the length of the first preservative is so long… it reminds me of supercalifragilisticexpialidocious!


    #96560
    preciousia
    Member
    What do you think of Parabens? Some people avoid them completely whereas i am not too sure.

    The WORST
    Propylparaben (7)
    Butylparaben (7)
    Isobutylparaben (7)

    MODERATE
    Methylparaben (4)
    Ethylparaben (4)
    Polyparaben (5)

    LEAST
    Phenoxyethylparaben (1)
    Benzylparaben (2)
    Penylparaben (1)



    #96582
    Peter
    Member

    Well they appear to be safe at the allowed concentrations, and certainly Methyl and Ethylparaben are the least worrying. But personally I rather use other preservatives, because there have been some studies indicating parabens may induce skin damge under influence of uv-light. And there is still some concern about the endocrine disrupting properties of Propylparaben and Butylparaben. For a complete overview you could read the complete opinion on parabens in this article:

    #96583
    Doffy90
    Member

    Any idea who ships Invisible Zinc to Europe? Found it on eBay but the shipping is craaazy.

    #96599
    preciousia
    Member

    @Doffy90 You could check with Invisible Zinc directly for stockist. They are responsive on Fb

    #96603
    preciousia
    Member

    @Peter Thanks for the article! 

    Preservatives are a necessary evil i suppose. I don’t like the natural ingredients which can end up with product going bad easily. 
    Parabens seems to be ok, similar ot you, it’s not my fave. i would avoid Isobutylparaben , Propylparaben and Butylparaben
    #96607
    Peter
    Member

    @Preciousia

    I don’t think parabens are a big problem either, as you say preservatives are a necessary evil. But a product that has gone bad is even worse for your skin. Personally I avoid the 6/7 preservatives I mentioned on 31 october, and concerning parabens, well if they are in a rinse of product it’s no problem. I did find some other sunscreens from Ultrasun btw.
    Ultrasun Anti-age SPF50+ PA++++
    Aqua, Isostearyl Isostearate, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (Nano), Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Titanium Dioxide (Nano), Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Squalane, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Cocoglycerides, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Ectoin, Silica, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Olea Europaea Leaf Extract, Zinc Pca, Cetyl Phosphate, Alcohol, T-Butyl Alcohol, Ascorbic Acid, Lecithin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Tocopherol, Diisopropyl Adipate, Ubiquinone.
    #96612
    preciousia
    Member
    @Peter well said. The beautybrains had said this many times too. I rather a product is preserved than a product that goes bad and causes more harm than good! Just what you said to.

    Will take note of the preservatives you mentioned. :) Thank you again for sharing your knowledge.

    #96613
    preciousia
    Member

    Ultrasun Anti-age SPF50+ PA++++

    gosh this sunscreen looks really good!



    Active ingredients:

    • Tinosorb M (Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (Nano)
    • Photodegradation: none Hormonal activity: none absorption: none free radicals: none photoallergenic: only to decyl glucoside Dalton: 659
  • Uvinul T 150 (Ethylhexyl Triazone)
    • Uvinul T150 (Ethylhexyl Triazone, EHT, Octyltriazone), Photodegradation: very little 4% Hormonal activity: none absorption: none free radicals: some photoallergenic: unlikely Dalton: 823
  • Titanium Dioxide (Nano)
    • Photodegradation: none Hormonal activity: none absorption: Not known for sure free radicals: yes photoallergenic: no Dalton: 80
  • Tinosorb S (Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazin)
    • Photodegradation: none Hormonal activity: none absorption: none free radicals: none photoallergenic: no Dalton: 692
  • Uvinul A Plus (Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate)
    • Photodegradation: none Hormonal activity: none absorption: none free radicals: none photoallergenic: no Dalton: 398
  • Octyl Slicylate
    • Photodegradation: some 30% Hormonal activity: none absorption: some free radicals: none photoallergenic: no Dalton: 250

I like:

– Squalane

– Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract,  grapeseed extract

– Vitamin C (Ascorbyl Glucoside, Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate)

– Olea Europaea Leaf Extract, 

– Zinc PCA

– Lecithin

– Vitamin E 

– Ubiquinone

all these antioxidants will be useful to protect against Infrared radiation from the sun.

#96614
preciousia
Member

@Peter

Ultrasun Anti-age SPF50+ PA++++

gosh this sunscreen looks really good!

Active ingredients:

  • Tinosorb M (Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (Nano)

  • Photodegradation: none Hormonal activity: none absorption: none free radicals: none photoallergenic: only to decyl glucoside Dalton: 659

  • Uvinul T 150 (Ethylhexyl Triazone)
    • Uvinul T150 (Ethylhexyl Triazone, EHT, Octyltriazone), Photodegradation: very little 4% Hormonal activity: none absorption: none free radicals: some photoallergenic: unlikely Dalton: 823

  • Titanium Dioxide (Nano)
    • Photodegradation: none Hormonal activity: none absorption: Not known for sure free radicals: yes photoallergenic: no Dalton: 80

  • Tinosorb S (Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazin)
    • Photodegradation: none Hormonal activity: none absorption: none free radicals: none photoallergenic: no Dalton: 692

  • Uvinul A Plus (Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate)
    • Photodegradation: none Hormonal activity: none absorption: none free radicals: none photoallergenic: no Dalton: 398

  • Octyl Slicylate
    • Photodegradation: some 30% Hormonal activity: none absorption: some free radicals: none photoallergenic: no Dalton: 250

    #96618
    Peter
    Member
    @Preciousia

    Ectoin is also a very good active which protects against sun damage (https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15452409/). The other ingredients are probably added at low concentrations 0.01-0.1%, so it’s nice the product doensn’t contain irritants, is packaged airless and is well preserved, but I guess you can’t expect much from the antioxidants.

    I must say my sunscreen list is quite abbreviated. Really you could write a book of 100 pages on every sunscreen. But still, the more I read, the more I think the list is okay in general:
    Avoid:
    – Octocrylene (easily absorbed by skin, forms free radicals, allergy rates are rising, after certain amount of time it generates more free radicals than no sunscreen)
    – Homosalate (hormone disruptor, easily abo
    – Benzophenone-3 (strong allergen, very easily absorbed by skin, endocrine disruptor, photocarcinogenic, it’s almost never used in Europe anymore if its used product needs special label stating product contains Oxybenzone, because of its allergenic nature)
    – Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamte (easily absorbed, endocrine disruptor)
    – Enzacamene (4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor, already banned in Europe)
    – Benzyl Salicylate (mostly added as fragrance)
    – 3-benzylidene Camphor
    Best:
    – Tinosorb S (extremely stable, no absorption and no allergic reactions thus far)
    – Mexoryl XL (stable, not absorbed)
    – Uvasorb HEB (improved version of Uvinal T150)
    – Uvinal A Plus (extremely effective stable UVA sunscreen, reduces formation of free radicals in sunlight very effectively, although particles are smaller than 500 dalton)
    – Neo Heliopan AP (stable UVA filter)
    – Tinosorb M (very stable, reflects, scatters and absorbs, it’s a hybrid sunscreen, considered the only real alternative to physical sunscreens without any skin absorption, the only downside is that some people are allergic to decyl glycoside, which is the surfactant that keeps the particles in suspension)
    – Mexoryl SX (it is not completely stable, but still very good safety profile)
    – Uvinal T150 (one of the most efficient UVB filters)
    Oke:
    Titanium Dioxide (when nano (or micronized) and uncoated it is extremely reactive/catalytic (ROS-production), most companies use the rutile form which is less reactive, still there is discussion if it gets absorbed and how stable the coatings are, reflects and absorbs UV radiation. Non nano forms appear to have far less safety concerns and mainly reflect uv, although hardly any company uses real non nano titanium dioxide, even if they claim they do (most just refer to the mean clustered particle size). Depending on regulations in your country different definitions of nano exist, in the worst case 49% is still in the nano range, while it may be labelled as non-nano. Larger companies are more reliable in their labelling. A non-nano sunscreen must appear extremely white on skin.
     Zinc Oxide (less reactive, but there are more concerns about skin absorption compared to titanium dioxide, not approved in EU yet, but considering most studies say on healthy skin it will stay in the top skin layer approval in the EU is expected, however it is expected on abraded/shaved and even stretched skin over longer periods some amount will get absorbed, also via hair follicles. If the particles get absorbed till the viable skin layers free radical formation may cause skin damage. It’s not as white as Titanium Dioxide, so it’s more believable some companies use non-nano zinc oxide, but still the product should appear very white on skin in that case. Compared to Titanium Dioxide it’s safer)
    Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (Non greasy UVB filter, although may produce free radicals and allergy has been observed)
    – Ethylhexyl Salicylate (some skin penetration and not completely stable, but in general oke safety profile)
    Polysilicone-15 (unlikely to cause any allergic reactions)
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