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@Peter Ectoin is new to me!
Neo Heliopan AP (stable UVA filter)– approved in Australia– AKA Disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonatealso newIs this theRegarding Ethylhexyl Salicylate, you mentioned 30% photodegradation and some skin penetration. How do you assess the safety profile?http://cen.acs.org/articles/93/i20/Decade-FDA-Still-Wont-Allow.html hehe “Saying no, they say, means FDA will never have to say it is sorry. “@Doffy90 you can buy from this Australian online shop if you like. I have bought from them before, they are very good and you should definitely check for GWP or stackable coupons. Their shipping policy here: https://www.adorebeauty.com.au/shippingi am not sure if it is the cheapest for you thoughanyways IZ replied me on facebook when i asked about stockist.> thank you for your message. Unfortunately we only control the distribution of the Invisible Zinc products in Australia. However please see below the website adore beauty, which sells IZ products and ships internationally. Website: http://www.adorebeauty.com.au. Thanks, IZIn most books and studies they say Ethylhexyl Salicylate has a good safety profile. Althought it is a bit unstable and can be absorbed to some extend, so I would say it’s okay, but not the best.@ preciousia – Cotz is a brand I have heard of, but never tried. I think I have a sample of it, a tinted version.
I tend to shy away from trying new products very often when it comes something I put on my face, too much history of breakouts from trying new things. Now I do proceed with caution, trying new products on my arm first. Even that is not fool-proof. Sometimes the skin on my arm doesn’t react, but the skin on my face does.@ preciousia – Oxybenzone was the ingredient that was not reef friendly that I know about. There are others, I am sure.
That’s an issue indeed, the effects on the environment. Many cosmetic ingredients that are no problem for humans may be problematic for reefs, fish etc. nano titanium dioxide is one of them.
@Peter Sigh. We all make compromises with sunscreens…. there’s no perfect one hey! in the meantime.. i have added that sunscreen you pointed out to my wish list, the first full chemical sunscreen!
@lindygirl1960 yes.. i understand what you mean about patch test. i tested something behind my ears where i am supposed to be sensitive and the allergy didn’t come up. i suggest you be extra cautious, try behind the ears, underside of arms/elbow, then on the jaw or a small nominated spot on the face last. test for a few days. someone taught me that.the sad thing with allergies is, in australia 50% say they have sensitive skin but no one knows exactly what they are sensitive to! i guess you don’t know what sets you off either?What other ingredients are not reef friendly? i’ll go to the beach this summer.@Peter What do you think of this : Innisfree Perfect UV Protection Cream Triple Care SPF50+ PA+++ 50ml Sunscreen?
Product infoA multifunctional, water resistant UV protection cream that is smooth to the touch without being sticky and lasts for hours.-
5-Free system : Free of animal ingredients, mineral oils, artificial coloring, tar dye and talc.
- 3 functions in one product [Anti-aging & Whitening & UV Protection]
Ingredients:- water, cyclopentasiloxane, zinc oxide (ci 77947), dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, peg-10 dimethicone, dicaprylyl carbonate, titanium dioxide (ci 77891), isodecyl neopentanoate, niacinamide, disteardimonium hectorite, camellia sinensis leaf extract, mica (ci 77019), dimethicone, magnesium sulfate, methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, methicone, phenoxyethanol, aluminum hydroxide, glyceryl caprylate, fragrance, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, stearic acid, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, tocopheryl acetate, caprylyl glycol, adenosine, iron oxides (ci 77492), triethoxycaprylylsilane, biosaccharide gum-1, iron oxides (ci 77491), iron oxides (ci 77499), helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, camellia japonica leaf extract, orchid extract, citrus unshiu peel extract, opuntia coccinellifera fruit extract, saccharomyces ferment lysate filtrate
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Quick Ingredients analysis
- Pure physical, no chemical filters. Primarily Zinc Oxide & Titanium Dioxide
- niacinamide : (10th ingredient), anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory, essential for skin health
- camellia sinensis leaf extract: aka green tea, boost UV protection reference
- adenosine : Adenosine is a yeast-derived ingredient that functions as a good soothing and skin-restoring ingredient. Cell-communicating ingredient with anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory effects. Additionally, adenosine supports healthy cell function. reference
- biosaccharide gum-1: A moisturizing and skin soothing ingredient. It works by binding water to the epidermis, and creating a moisture-binding film on the skin that gives the skin a soft, smooth feeling. In addition to providing long lasting moisturization, it also functions as an anti-irritant. It can be found in a variety of cosmetics such as facial moisturizer, sunscreen, eye cream, foundation and conditioner. reference
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helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil:
- Sunflower oil is high in the essential vitamin E and low in saturated fat, also containing lecithin, tocopherols, carotenoids and waxes.
- Fatty acid profile (will differ depending on the types:
- Palmitic acid (saturated): 5%
- Stearic acid (saturated): 6%
- Oleic acid (monounsaturated omega-9): 30%
- Linoleic acid (polyunsaturated omega-6): 59%
- reference
- camellia japonica leaf extract: anti-oxidant and anti-aging. reference
- orchid extract: reduce the look of fine lines and wrinkles, behave as an anti-oxidant and humectant, moisturize, soothe, and condition our skin. reference
- citrus unshiu peel extract: photoprotection, anti-oxidant reference
- opuntia coccinellifera fruit extract: AKA Prickly Pear. Promoting ceramide synthesis and production of natural moisturizing factor of the skin reference
- saccharomyces ferment lysate filtrate: a yeast extract containing cytokines and growth factors that when topically applied stimulate elastin production, defends against the detrimental effects of ozone (which has an ability to deplete antioxidants in the skin) and improves the barrier function of the skin. reference
- No Parabens
- No Mineral oil
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The product does contain fragrance (reference, reference, reference also fragrance may have endocrine disrupting properties, think of lavender), orchid extract (reference) and citrus unshiu peel extract (reference).The company does use nano-particles, because triethoxycaprylylsilane and aluminum hydroxide are coatings for nano particles.It does contain tocopheryl acetate, which is an ester of vitamin E.Thank you Peter for the referencesThe ingredient “fragrance” could mean quite a lot of ingredients… which companies do not have to disclose. I have tried the product and the smell is very mild. Thankfully, no lavender in there.The journal you reference had this that was interesting.>Moderate UVA-induced haemolysis (5-11%) was found with benzyl alcohol, bergamot oil, costus root oil, lime oil, orange oil, alpha-amyl cinnamic aldehyde and laurel leaf oil.>Moderate UVB-induced haemolysis was induced by hydroxy citronellal, cinnamic alcohol, cinnamic aldehyde, alpha-amyl cinnamic aldehyde and laurel leaf oil.Most commercial brands contain fragrance unfortunately!
Interesting thing about the citrus unshiu peel extract , i found a study that says it provides photo protection. reference so instead of making the skin more photosensitive or photo toxic… it boosts sun protection?Regarding orchid extract. i found this other reference that says that it is an antioxidant and is good. Perhaps Paula’s choice rated it poorly due to the lack of medical studies.Looks like most sunscreens use the synthetic Vitamin E tocopheryl acetate… i wonder if it is due to the oxidative instability of natural Vitamin E. Dr Todorov did advise us to get vitamin E capsules instead of a bottle of Vitamin E for DIY.For any sunscreen that is as cosmetically elegant as the Innisfree sunscreen, the sunscreen is undoubtedly microsized. I am not sure about nano sized as they do not provide that information.do you have idea about the number (ci 77947) that appears beside zinc oxide and (ci 77891) for titanium dioxide ?What about this other Innisfree sunscreen?
Ingredients: cyclopentasiloxane, water, zinc oxide (ci 77947), titanium dioxide (ci 77891), methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, peg-10 dimethicone, isodecyl neopentanoate, silica, mica (ci 77019), dipropylene glycol, disteardimonium hectorite, glycerin, cyclomethicone, magnesium sulfate, aluminum hydroxide, aluminum stearate, vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, polymethyl methacrylate, methicone, stearoyl inulin, phenoxyethanol, sorbitan sesquioleate, fragrance, caprylyl glycol, propanediol, microcrystalline cellulose, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, glyceryl caprylate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, camellia sinensis leaf extract, ethylhexylglycerin, dimethicone, iron oxides (ci 77492), triethoxycaprylylsilane, portulaca oleracea extract, centella asiatica extract, cellulose gum, iron oxides (ci 77491), iron oxides (ci 77499), helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, hamamelis virginiana (witch hazel) leaf extract, opuntia coccinellifera fruit extract, camellia japonica leaf extract, orchid extract, citrus unshiu peel extract, citric acid, potassium sorbate, sodium benzoateit contains green tea extract, gotu gola and a couple of other similar ingredients as the other including fragrance.I really don’t want to use a product with fragrance, even when the smell is mild or the fragrance is “non-allergenic”. Fragrance doesn’t have any function in a cosmetic product, and most importantly it’s the main cause of allergies, skin irritation and phototoxic reactions. Stating that a fragrance is natural or hypoallergenic is really nonsense. Hypoallergenic fragrance is not regulated term, so a company can add any fragrance he wants to add and still call it hypoallergenic (except for the fragrances which has to be labeled separately, reference) . Also natural fragrance is not better than normal fragrances considering skin irritation and pigmentation issues under uv light.
So you can skip any product with:Fragrance, Aroma, Natural Flavoring, Geraniol, Linalool, Citronellol, Limonene, Eugenol, Lilial (Butylphenyl Methylpropional), Citral, Hexyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Salicylate, Coumarin, Lyral (hydroxyisohexyl-3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde), Benzyl Benzoate, Isomethylionon, Hydroxycitronellal, Benzyl Alcohol, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Isoeugenol, Amyl Cinnal, Cinnamal, Farnesol, Benzyl Cinnamate, Oak Moss, Anisyl Alcohol, Amylcinnamyl alcohol, Methyl Heptine Carbonate, Trea Moss, Bergamot Oil, Lime Oil, Citrus Oil, Lavender, Rosemary Extract.Interesting article on Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract. I don’t know the exact composition of Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, maybe it doesn’t contain volatile/irritating/phototoxic compound, but then I really have to search for the composition of this extract. For now I believe Paula’s Choice on this specific ingredient and I rather stick to the well researched actives. I don’t see the benefit of using something that might be irritating, without any good record on its skin benefit. Btw there are also positive articles on Lavender or Tea Trea Oil, many plant extracts contain good antioxidant compounds, but most of the time together with some irritating compounds.I find micronized a misleading word, because although the mean particle size might be just above 100nm, still a considerable amount of the particles will be in the nano-range. Also most companies just refer to the clustered particle size, rather than the individual particle size. If the company has been fiddling with the particle size, always a certain percentage will fall in the nano-range, and then it would be best that the particles have a coating. Non-coated titanium dioxide is extremely photo-catalytic and causes formation of free radicals. But even with a coating you can’t completely avoid the formation of free radicals with titanium dioxide. It is hypothesized the particles stay in top layer of skin cells on non abraded, non stretched skin where the free radicals can’t do much harm, but in reality after prolonged usage certainly some will enter deeper skin layers.CI77947 and CI77891 are the color index codes of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. It’s a bit strange because physical uv filters are never listed by their color index code, as far as I know that’s not allowed (at least in Europe it’s not allowed).The irritating plant extract are used in low concentrations (so also green tea), so maybe the benefit of the sunfilters is larger than the negatives of the plant extracts. But I would rather choose the mildest sunscreen I could find, also many actives simply don’t work very well in sunscreens. The sunscreen should stay on top of your skin, while the actives should penetrate deeply in your skin, and that’s not a great combo. So most of the time a serum or cream with actives under you sunscreen is a better idea.@Peter i understand what you are saying about fragrance and it’s new to me that i am learning now. Since stopping my dermatologist’s products since he retired this year, i started to learn about skincare starting only in 2016 and there is still so much i do not know
thanks for sharing. I realise now that 1 ingredient “fragrance” can mean so many ingredients! Thanks to Beautybrains!Korean skincare has a lot of undocumented ingredients that are not as well researched (Paula’s gripe) … they are actually surprising quite good. Weird ingredients like pig, starfish, horse, donkey, snail. even spiders. gross!
I think i’ve got a question for beautybrains if it hasn’t been covered before…. i really need to know know more about photo-toxicity, photo-sensitivity. Do you know if this has been covered before?QUESTION: ARE ALL CITRUS BAD to use in the day?Hesperidin is a bioflavonoid existing extensively in the peel and membranes of citrus fruits. Studies by Zhu and colleagues have demonstrated hesperidin’s potent ability to inhibit melanin synthesis without cytotoxicity. This work found dose-dependent inhibition of tyrosinase activity (vs control) of hesperidin in melanoma B16 cells and human primary melanocytes (Figure 1, Zhang et al., 2008). In addition, hesperidin was found to protect against UVA-induced damage of fibroblasts and oxidative damage of collagen (Proteggente et al., 2003). Thus, hesperidin offers potential skin-lightening benefits, including improved overall skin tone and antiyellowing effects.
i have been using my Mad Hippie Vitamin C serum and i have ZERO sensitivity from the grapefruit (citrus grandis) ingredient. Just like they said:
“Thank you for reaching out! Our Vitamin C Serum does not contain grapefruit peel (or grapefruit essential oil) which contains bergapten, a phototoxic agent found in the peel of many citrus fruits. It is safe for daytime use and is great for increasing the photoprotective qualities of your SPF during the day as it contains lots of antioxidants that ward off photodamage. “
Citrus fruits are actually sources of vitamin C. I have used Lemon juice undiluted on my body with excellent results. Never on the face though.
@Peter What do you think of this sunscreen?
{SIMPLE as that} 100% Natural Sunscreen Lotion SPF30Active Ingredient: Zinc Oxide
Inactive Ingredients: Aqua, Isoamyl Laurate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Fragrance, Glycerin, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Sorbitan Stearate, Glyceryl Isostearate, Xanthan Gum, Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil, Cetearyl Glucoside, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Sucrose Cocoate, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract.
Size: 100ml.
Made in Australia.
https://naturalsupplyco.com/products/simple-as-that-100-natural-sunscreen-lotion-spf30
Well some citrus extracts may have vitamine C, but in the final formulation it’s going to be somewhere around 0.0001-0.01%. Not even close to the 23% vitamin C from the ordinary for example. I don’t think all citrus extracts are bad. But from what I’ve learned sunscreen actives, preservatives, fragrance and certain plant extracts are the most problematic cosmetic ingredients. Maybe I have to dig deeper into this issue, I just believed all the information from the cosmetic dermatology books I’ve read, and from what Paula Begoun, Leslie Baumann and Zoe Drealos say (Zoe Drealos, Paula). But those sources only state which extracts not to use, not the exact composition of the extract. Plant extracts are mega complex, they contain such an extreme amount of different compounds. Fragrance can consist of 200-500 different compounds (link). This book looks a bit in the composition of essential oils, link.Hesperadin is indeed a good compound of the peel of citrus fruits. Almost all plant extracts contain some good compounds, like antioxidants, but very often together with phototoxic compounds. You won’t see much irritation perhaps, but over time it will definitely increase hyperpigmentation in skin.Beside the fragrance the suncreen looks good. -
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