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@Peter Spot on again!
the % of vitamin C in citrus is really low. the highest fruit with 10x vitamin C of orange is Kakadu Plum… at best only 5% of the fruit is vitamin c. not sure how much an extract will contain though.yes, it seems too i need to dig a little more into citrus fruit and photo – toxicity>Plant extracts are mega complex,*nod profusely* and different extracts have quality too. depending on who/where/what you extract the manufacturer gets.Thanks for the fragrance links… i’m learning heaps from you! Appreciate it
To target pigmentation, plants extracts are essential.Plants contain tyrosinase inhibitors, flavonoids, polyphenols, neo glycoproteins, phytosterols, proanthocyanidins ( apigenin, luteolin, rutin, quercetin, genistein, daidzein, and glycitein), pycogenlol, liquirtin, phytoestrogens, antioxidants … and many more.Many are not replaceable by synthetic / man made / chemical ingredients.i wonder how they do the extraction process and how concentrated/potent is the extract.Unlike eg synthetic ingredients eg Niacinamide, plant extracts have different quality… i am not sure some brands that are really chaeap are using the best ingredients.btw, i just bought some Sulwhasoo ginseng serum from Korea. As a avid lover of ginseng (for consumption) i have used Sulwhasoo’s ginseng and found their extract to be of very good quality. (i eat ginseng and they aren’t cheap, cheap ginseng don’t cut it for me). Less than 20g will cost over AUD$100 i forget the price. The smell from the good ginseng and the poorer quality one is different and i can smell the ginseng extract in Sulwhasoo’s products. It’s not synthetic as not everyone is a fan of the smell of ginseng, i am sure they don’t add the ginseng smell in.https://naturalsupplyco.com/products/simple-as-that-100-natural-sunscreen-lotion-spf30with regards to this sunscreenat first glance i thought it is good too, apart from fragrance but i have some other criticism of the ingredients. Rosehip oil.
A german website i go to look at oils advises that rosehip oil (oxidative unstable) NOT be added in formulations for day time use. As a sunscreen. I think it is a NONO. So big cross here for me. even if they had added anti-oxidants to make Rosehip oil more stable, still not good enough. similar to what you say about Vitamin C in water… stability issues. maybe the other reason they advised it is also rosehip contains betacarotene, a precursor of trans-retinoic acid?This German website specialise in oils teaches us not only is the use of sunscreen important in the fight against aging , but also which oils one uses during the day. They have a list of oils with very detailed information. Unfortunately it’s in German (i use chrome to translate).Oils to avoid in the day are: rosehip, evening primrose, pomegranate seed and other oils with α- and γ-linolenic acid eg. hemp, elder, currant and other seed oils. Oils strongly susceptible to oxidation such as rosehip, evening primrose, pomegranate oil and other oils with parts of α and γ-linolenic acid and high linoleic acid (e.g. hemp, elder, currant and other seed oils).With regard to plant extracts, I tend to believe the cosmetic dictionary of Paula’s Choice. Many natural ingredients or plant extracts are great, like green tea, genistein, evodia, ergothioneine etc., but some just have irritating compounds in them, like bergamot, lavender, peppermint, citrus extracts (some references link, link, link, link, link). In all studies on photodermatology and cosmetic dermatology the plant extracts Paula rates as poor are indeed explained as being skin sensitizers which can aggravate hyperpigmentation issues. In that regard I think her cosmetic dictionary is really accurate.“Plants contain tyrosinase inhibitors…”Many indeed can be helpful with pigmentation issues that can be used without any problem indeed. Kojic Acid, Arbutin, Licorice, Niacinamide, Glycolic Acid, polyphenols…. on the other hand eucalyptus, citrus extracts and many other plants can cause pigmentation issues.Could be that there’s a difference in quality between companies, I don’t know, but most companies just buy the actives at large suppliers of cosmetic ingredients. That’s the advantage of very large multinational companies btw, they are afraid of lawsuits, so there testing is very strict, also they are more honest at stating if they use nano ingredients. Disadvantage, often they use very low amounts of active ingredients, because high concentrations can irritate skin, their solution is to make very blend products.Some people even say you can’t use vitamin C during the day, because it’s unstable. But that’s not true, many studies have proven it to provide protection against uv radiation. I was researching rosehip oil as well, some studies say it contains about 0.0001-0.000035% retinoic acid, could be a the reason not to use it during the day? I know there are many studies which assesed the photoprotective properties of some oils, I don’t know if you need to avoid unstable oils, but you need to avoid photosensitive and fragrant plant oils, because they stimulate hyperpigmentation under UV-light.@Peter i like Paula’s cosmetic dictionary.. good for the lay person like me.
Paula herself has very sensitive skin tho! So thankfully i do not have that isue.eucalyptus is poweful! i would not use it on the face. i use it to kill bacteria and fungal in my laundry, washing, cleaning… it’s good for colds.. i love this Australian plant! Koala bears eat only Eucalyptus leaves and they sleep all the time because of the toxicity of Eucalyptus.The similar ingredient, also aussie Tea Tree can be an irritant too! My hubbt had a full blown skin inflammation, pus, red, scab and all. yikes. so he can use diluted but not undiluted tea tree oil.Tea tree is used for acne tho… so sometimes they use “poison” to fight “poison”, have you heard of this term?>Disadvantage, often they use very low amounts of active ingredients, because high concentrations can irritate skin, their solution is to make very blend products.Agree about MNC using low actives and “honesty”. I think for logistics too they use low actives as high actives can decrease shelf life of the product (heat/transport etc)>Some people even say you can’t use vitamin C during the day, because it’s unstable.maybe use a Vitamin C derivative, not LAA!@Peter
I had done extensive research on Rosehip oil… it may contain trace amounts of trans retinoic acid. See my postThe presence of all-trans retinoic acid in the oil Rosehip is controversial, (up to .357 ml/L or 0.036%)-
A study conducted in Chile states that “the analysis of a batch of rosehip seed oil contained 0.00083% 0.83 mg of trans-retinoic acid / 100 g of oil.”
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Another study carried out by King’s College London failed to find any trace of this vitamin. -
At present there is no data to quantify this potential trans retinoic acid in the oil
i think any form of Vitamin A i will avoid to use during the day too!Rosehip oil contains more Beta carotene tho.>avoid photosensitive and fragrant plant oilsBingo!but yes to unstable oils too as if they oxidise… it’s bad for the skin. check out that german website, they did advise the stability of a wide variety of oils.
finally tried the Blue Lizard sunscreen and it’s really quite nice to use. no white cast but i have issues with their sunscreen activesafter a good amount of education from resident sunscreen expert Peter i know to avoid some sunscreen actives.Blue Lizard contains- Octinoxate 7.5%
- Octocrylene 2%
- Oxybenzone 3%
- Zinc Oxide 6%
Octinoxate (Octyl methoxycinnamate / Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate/EHMC)- Photodegradation: Yes, 60% Hormonal activity: Yes absorption: Yes free radicals: Yes photoallergenic: Yes
- an effective chemical UVB protector.
- Animal studies indicate that octyl methoxycinnamate may produce hormonal (estrogen-like) and possibly other adverse effects. On the other, such effects have not been demonstrated with typical human use.
- EWG Hazard Rating: 6
- Skin Penetration : Found in mothers’ milk; less than 1% skin penetration in human and laboratory studies
- Hormone Disruption: Hormone-like activity; reproductive system, thyroid and behavioral alterations in animal studies
- Reference: Krause 2012, Sarveiya 2004, Rodriguez, 2006, Klinubol 2008
Octocrylene (OCR)- Photodegradation: None Hormonal activity: ? absorption: Yes free radicals: Yes photoallergenic: Yes
- EWG Hazard Rating: 3
- Allergies: Relatively high rates of skin allergy
- Reference: Krause 2012, Bryden 2006, Hayden 2005
Benzophenone-3 (Oxybenzone)- Photodegradation: some, 10% Hormonal activity: Yes absorption: Yes free radicals: Yes photoallergenic: Yes
- EWG Hazard Rating : 8
- Hormone Disruption: Acts like estrogen in the body; alters sperm production in animals; associated with endometriosis in women
- Relatively high rates of skin allergy
- References: Janjua 2004, Janjua 2008, Sarveiya 2004, Gonzalez 2006, Rodriguez 2006, Krause 2012
when i see oxybenzone. i run far far away. i will not purchase this sunscreen and i suggest you do some homework on some of the sunscreen actives? 3 out of 4 sunscreen actives in Blue Lizard is awful, i don’t know why the dermatologist recommend it. also, i am not sure… does it contain mineral oil? feels like it. another ingredient i avoid in sunscreen after what Dr Lenz has shared.ok… i found the ingredients, no mineral oil but lots of silicone which explains the slip feel of the product.Inactive Ingredients: Beeswax, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, cetyl dimethicone, cetyl dimethicone copolyol, diazolidinyl urea, disodium EDTA, ethylhexyl palmitate, ethylhexyl stearate, ethylparaben, fragrance, hexyl laurate, hydrogenated castor oil, methyl glucose dioleate, methylparaben, octododecyl neopentanoate, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, propylene glycol, propylparaben, purified water, sorbitan oleate, stearic acid, tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E), trimethylated silica/dimethicone, VP/hexadecene copolymeringredients:- diazolidinyl urea = bad as it releases formaldehyde!
- fragrance = bad
- ethylparaben, methylparaben & propylparaben = “It’s a very wise idea to eliminate all personal care products in your arsenal that contain either butyl, ethyl, methyl or propyl parabens because the chemicals are readily absorbed into the body where they are believed to trigger everything from skin irritation and toxicity of the immune, reproductive and neural systems to disruption of the endocrine system. The majority of urine samples obtained from Americans of various socio-economic backgrounds show paraben contamination, which is of great concern since the highly toxic estrogen-mimicking preservatives are also commonly found in the tumors of breast cancer patients.” source
- 2 of the parabens used are not the WORST parabens. rated 4 in EWG but Propylparaben i will avoid!!! Rated 7 in EWG! see http://thebeautybrains.com/2006/05/the-perils-of-parabens/
- ethylhexyl palmitate = coconut derivative, may be comedogenic &
- “unsustainable harvesting practices of so many major global palm oil suppliers place a continued burden on rainforest species that rely on palm trees and their fruit for their very survival (namely orangutans), earning this ingredient two huge thumbs down.”
- stearic acid = may be comedogenic
Indeed you should really avoid Oxybenzone and Octinoxate (Octyl methoxycinnamate). They might be “safe” according the FDA, but these days there are so many better stabler sunscreen alternatives around the world that are not absorbed by your skin, don’t show phototoxic reactions, and don’t have endocrine disrupting properties.I really think Tinosorb, Mexoryl, Uvinal A Plus, Uvinul T150, Uvasorb HEB and maybe the physical filters, are the best sunscreen actives out there.@Peter Bingo. Oxybenzone is the worst! i will take your advice and stay clear of these sunscreen
my girlfriend gave me a gift.. sunscreen and i spotted Octinoxate, korean sunscreens call itEthylhexyl Methoxycinnamate and i had to reject the gift. i felt so bad for rejecting a gift… i told her why (what you taught us) and she couldn’t understand why they would include it in a sunscreen if it is bad!
Well bad, it’s one of the sunfilters with the longest list of side effects. Of course they are approved in America and Europe. Because America only admits very few sunscreen actives, many companies shipping world wide are still using these older filters. However in Europe there are so many options with better sunscreen actives, like Tinosorb, Uvinul and Mexoryl, I don’t see the point in using those old filters. Although they might be “safe” according the FDA, definitively there are many concerns regarding allergy, phototoxic reactions, endocrine disruption properties. It is not without a reason companies must warn on the package if a product contains oxybenzone. Also you can’t find any sunscreen produced in Europe that uses these kind of sunscreen actives.@Peter You’re a good teacher. i have blacklisted the sunscreen ingredients you said.Recently in my beauty box subscription i received a sunscreen that isn’t the best either.
The good is that it is extremely user friendly. No white cast.the bad:- Bemotrizinol 0.8%, = Tinosorb S (good)
- oxybenzone 2.4%, = bad
- diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate 1.9%, = Uvinul A plus (good)
- titanium dioxide 2.3%, = good
- dichlorobenzyl alcohol, = preservative
- phenoxyethanol, = preservative
- hydroxybenzoates. = preservative
also contains Vitamin B3 and Esuch good ingredients but ruined by oxybenzone!>Also you can’t find any sunscreen produced in Europe that uses these kind of sunscreen actives.nice! i wish Korea will cut out Octinoxate too… i see it in so many of their sunscreenInteresting video.
Interesting video.
Would love to see my face on a UV camera and see if I apply it correctly
Really hope more skincare brands will formulate sunscreens with the following actives:
Tinosorb STinosorb MUvinal A PlusUvinul T150Uvasorb HEBMexoryl XLMexoryl SXDid you try the Hylamide HA Blur already? And what was your opinion on the Azelaic Acid? -
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