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Sometimes I think I’m going to stop writing all the things I’ve found in literature. People on reddit mainly want to follow their own way, so it is hurtful if you’ve been reading and researching something and other people simply downvote everything they don’t like. I’ve unsubscribed from AsianBeauty, I don’t agree about the things they say, and they don’t want me to say anything anyway. So there’s no reason to be there. It’s nicer to focus on the more informative posts discussing some research…
Well I’ve 21 days of reddit gold left, so not that long
But perhaps you are right about the glycerin, pure glycerin can also be irritating to skin… so I will keep using the Aloe for a while, but if I don’t like it I’m going back to a surfactant free cleansing milk. Dermatologist recommend eczema patient often to use their emollient or just a regular moisturizer for shaving and their emollient as a soap substitute , since it’s much milder, link, link, link.Tada. I said i will do it and indeed I shall
Away from the noise. NO acne. Gold member only. Creme da la creme.ps: i bought a years worth of reddit gold. the blog will be transferred eventally to reddit gold version
some will be on /r/pigmentation. some on /r/sunblock.but of course the good stuff for gold people.i’ll be on a 40 day break. till Easter. Ash Wednesday starts this week. I shall be fasting from social media.Thanks to Peter’s fine education. I have studied a lil more of the limitations of Zinc oxide, great if only micron or microsized >100nm but nanosized…. rather different. Refer to
See the direct relationship with particle size and absorption of ZnO.
As ZnO particle size go down, the protection shifts from UVA to UVB.UV Filter Absorbance Spectrum including Tinosorb S Aqua, Tinosorb M, nano Zinc oxide.
10% Tinosorb M & 25% nano Zinc oxide (EU maximum) compared using the BASF calculator. As you can see y axis has the same values and you can see at 400nm, Tinosorb M is only marginally better.
Titanium Dioxide absorption spectrum compared at different particle sizes Nano 20n 50nm, micro 100nm 220nm
Issue: Inadequate UVA coverage from Nano mineral sunscreens.
So after testing for a year of zinc sunscreens work for me in Aussie & Asia sun. ie Invisible Zinc! Tried & Tested. Proven to work for Australia sun.
Problem of course, it’s not an everyday sunscreen to wear non nano>100nm Zinc oxide at 25-27%. Argh. White cast too, despite the name. Invisible Zinc SPF30 sunscreens are much better, little to no white cast. To stick to SPF50 means heavy duty sunscreen (but not like your classiz zinc paste, nicer!)
Using the Asian sunscreens I tried with lower contents of Zinc, the UV protection is not the same UV protection. Sure I bought SPF50+ PA+++ (UVAPF8-15+)
This cosmetic elegance came at a cost. I tanned when I vacationed. Just a moment of careless (15 min technically is all it takes). Tan=UV damage. Also got new pigmentation on my arms and decolletage where I forget to use sunscreen, which thankfully I eradicated now. On my face, though did not burn, I tanned and experienced darker pigmentation.
The asian sunscreens are very cosmetically elegant, easy to layer makeup, great “indoor sunscreen”.Conclusion based on my experience:
- A pure microsized Zinc oxide sunscreen protects very well.
- Pure mineral TiO2 + ZnO (nano sized) provides insufficient coverage.
- Going to find a chemical filter higher in UVA if cosmetic elegance required especially one that supplements zinc oxide >377nm
imho, The best UVA1 sunscreen actives are :
1) Zinc oxide (>100nm of course. NON NANO!)
Critical Wavelength: up to 700nm, dependent on particle size. BASF nano sized Zcote 384 nm for (water phase) 377nm (oil phase)2) Tinosorb M (Physical+Chemical hybrid)
Critical Wavelength: 384 nm3) Tinosorb S Aqua
Critical Wavelength: 381 nm– Uvinul A plus Critical Wavelength: 379 nm
– Titanium Dioxide (nano) – 375nm (oil phase) 376 (water phase)
–
– Mexoryl SX / Ecamsule: Critical Wavelength: 373 nmTo prepare for summer.
I just bought 5 new sunscreens. All fragrance and alcohol free. 4 are silicone free. To test physical+chemical mixes this summer (December-February in AU)
UltraSun Anti-Ageing Tinted SPF 50+ PA++++
- Tinosorb M
- Uvinul T 150
- Titanium Dioxide (Nano)
- Eusolex T-Easy – dual coated with Silica & Cetyl Phosphate
- Tinosorb S
- Uvinul A Plus
- Ethylhexyl Salicylate
ingredients: Aqua, Isostearyl Isostearate, Pentylene Glycol, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (Nano), Ethylhexyl Triazone, Glycerin, Titanium Dioxide (Nano), Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Silica, Ectoin, Squalane, Cocoglycerides, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Alcohol, Cetyl Phosphate, T-Butyl Alcohol, Lecithin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Tocopherol, Diisopropyl Adipate, Ubiquinone, CI 77019, CI 77491, CI 77891,Cl 77492,Cl 77499.
Noreva Cicadiane Protect Crème Réparatrice Photo-Protectrice SPF 50+ PPD38
- Tinosorb M
- Uvinul T 150
- Titanium Dioxide (Nano – Eusolex T-Easy – dual coated with Silica & Cetyl Phosphate)
- Tinosorb S
- Uvinul A Plus
- Ethylhexyl Salicylate
ingredients: Aqua, Dibutyl Adipate, Bi-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, Diisopropyl Sebacate, polymethyl methacrylate, ethylhexyl Triazone, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Pentaerithrityl Diistearate, Disodium Cetearyl Sulfosucinate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Chlorphenesin, Potassium sorbate , Disodium Edta, Aminomethyl Propanol, Citric Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Mangnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Sodium Sulfate, Copper Gluconate.
Ducray Melascreen UV Crème légère SPF50+ UVAPF≥20
- Tinosorb M
- Tinosorb S
- Uvasorb HEB
- Avobenzone (stabilised by Tinosorb)
ingredients: water (aqua), c12-15 alkyl benzoate, methylene bis benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol [nano] cetearyl isononanoate, diisopropyl adipate, isodecyl neopentanoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, potassium cetyl phosphate, decyl glucoside, bis-ethylhexyl hydroxydimethoxy benzylmalonate, c10-18 triglycerides, acrylates / c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, benzoic acid, caprylyl glycol, disodium edta, glyceryl behenate, glyceryl dibehenate, propylene glycol, silica, sodium hydroxide, tribehenin, xanthan gum
Avene Fluide Mineral Teinte SPF 50+ UVAPF ≥20
- Zinc oxide + Titanium dioxide pure mineral
ingredientsZinc Oxide [Nano], Thermal Spring Water Avene (Avene Aqua), Titanium Dioxide [Nano], Coco-Caprylate / Caprate Isopropyl Palmitate Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate, Isodecyl Neopentanoate Isododecane, Isohexadecane, PTFE, Triethylhexanoin, Dicaprylyl Ether, Peg-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Iron Oxides (CI77492) (CI77491) (CI77499), Mica, Alumina, Stearic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Peg-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Silica, Benzoic Acid, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Disodium Edta, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Glyceryl Behenate, Glyceryl Dibehenate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil (Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil), Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Polyamide-3, Sodium Chloride, Titanium Dioxide (CI77891), Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Glucoside, Tribehenin, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Water ( Aqua).
MyChelle Dermaceuticals, Sun Shield Clear Stick SPF 50
17% Zinc oxide
ingredients: Beeswax, bisabolol, butyrospermum parkii (shea butter), calophyllum tacamahaca seed oil, cannabis sativa seed oil, euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax, jojoba esters, octyldodecyl olivate, oryza sativa (rice) bran oil, oryzanol, persea gratissima (avocado) oil, simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil, theobroma cacao (cocoa) seed butter, tocopherol
& of course, I will continue with my HG ourdoor sunscreen : Invisible Zinc
and closer to my NZ vacation in February I will buy this Japanese sunscreen as I will get wet at Milford Sound & Doubtful Sound.
Shiseido Anessa Perfect UV Sunscreen Aqua Booster Mild SPF50+ PA++++- Zinc oxide
- Titanium Dioxide
- Uvinul T 150
- Uvinul A Plus
- Tinosorb S
This is great for water-sports as the sunscreen improves when it comes in contact with water (sea/swim/sweat)! Using a similar technology to Shiseido Wetforce (same company).
ingredients: Cyclopentasiloxane, zinc oxide, diisopropyl sebacate, methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, water, cetyl ethylhexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, triethylhexanoin, diethylhexyl succinate, titanium dioxide, dimethicone, glycerin, polymethylsilsesquioxane, dextrin palmitate, PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (Uvinal A Plus), disteardimonium hectorite, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (Tinosorb S), PEG / PPG-14/7 dimethyl ether, sodium cholride, dipotassium glycyrrhizate (licorice root), angelica acutiloba root extract (Japanese angelica), thymus serpyllum extract (thyme), rosa roxburghii extract (chestnut rose), sodium hyaluronate (Hyaluronic Acid), PEG-10 Dimethicone, aluminum hydroxide, stearyl phosphate, silica, sodium citrate, sodium metabisulfite, tocopherol (Vitamin E)
From US, I like Thinkbaby, SPF 50+ Sunscreen 20% non nano Zinc oxide
ingredients: Purified water (0), aloe barbadensis leaf juice extract (0), capric caprylic triglycerides (0), sorbitan stearate (coconut based) (1), methyl abietate (pine wood resin) (0), vegetable glycerin (0), cetyl dimethicone (0), hydrogenated castor oil (0), magnesium sulfate (epsom salt) (0), sunflower oil (0), jojoba oil (0), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) (0), tocopherols (vitamin E) (1), olive oil (0), raspberry seed oil (0), cranberry seed oil (0), hyaluronic acid (made from vegetable) (0), glucose oxidase & lactoperoxidate (0), papaya (0). (Skin Deep Ratings Subject to Change)
no doubt my 27% non nano Invisible Zinc will hold up better
A wardrobe of different sunscreen for different days.
Did anyone find sunscreens with Tinosorbs/Uvinul w/o nasty Oxybenzone, Octinoxate, Homosalate, Octocrylene, Enzacamene, Padimate O? Lower risk also are Avobenzone, Octisalate, Ensulizole, TEA-salicylate, Cinoxate, Dioxybenzone, Amiloxate, Sulisobenzone, Polysilicone-15 which I try to avoid if possible.
Peter has shared his list of Tinosorb/UVinul sunscreens with invaluable reviews. I’ve compiled a list of these sunscreens and added a few more I found here if anyone is keen.
Please update if you come across any good ones. Thank you.
I would like to thank Peter for composing this best SPF list. It helped me greatly.
I have been using this Kao sunscreen (no fragrance) and I thought the filters were good (Uvinul A Plus, Tinosorb S, Uvinul T 150 & Octinoxate) but had no idea that Octinoxate has hormonal activity! I will order the Danish Derma Sollotion SPF and try it out – is it greasy/drying/moisturising btw?
https://www.ratzillacosme.com/sun/biore-uv-nobinobi-kids-milk-spf50/
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