What are the “best” sunscreen ingredients?

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  • #96357
    preciousia
    Member

    As referenced on the other thread, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide does not cause any risk when applied to the skin as confirmed with over 10 years research by Australia TGA.

    I am particularly concerned how zinc oxide and titanium dioxide is bad for the marine.

    I appreciate Peter’s research from Europe. In Australia where I am in and in USA, sunscreen is treated as a medicine/drug. In Europe, as Dr Lens say, it is a cosmetic. Thus the different emphasis & choice of ingredients.

    I am unsure how Europe regulate /test sunscreens. Dr Lens did say he doesn’t trust the PPD, but prefer Japanese system of PA system better.

    I’ve done 2 blog posts from Peter’s notes.
    – 7 chemical sunscreens to consider
    chemical sunscreen myths busted & which to avoid
    Also did a little more research, though not complete.

    Dr Lens spoke about photostability as an important consideration for sunscreen & but he did not mention hormone disrupters.

    #96358
    preciousia
    Member

    Particular keen on only 4 chemical sunscreen filters ingredients only. The only issue is finding chemical sunscreen containing only these 4 ingredients

    The ones I’ll consider are:
    #1,2 & 7 from my list of sunscreens (as suggested by Peter)

    Particularly if they are mixed with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide.

    #96359
    preciousia
    Member

    @Peter are Uvinul A plus and Uvinul T150 made by BASF ?
    Looks like BASF has done some very good R&D with Tinorsorb & Uvinul! These are the chemical sunscreen I would consider only.

    #96360
    preciousia
    Member

    Sunscreen should not be treated like medicine, whether chemical or physical I think it is very important you do not dislike using it, as Dr Lens said, you need to like it otherwise you would not use it.

    I would consider only 6 ingredients in my sunscreen. Thanks to Peter we are so much more knowledgeable in chemical sunscreens, on behalf of the community THANK YOU!

    #96361
    preciousia
    Member

    https://youtu.be/TL7eEcbs_H0

    Do you think she is applying enough quantity of sunscreen? I like the EltaMD sunscreen she recommended, I have added it to my wish list too.

    #96367
    Tiffany60
    Member

    @Peter

    Thank you Peter! Here is the ingredient of one of the Bioderma sunscreen: 
    Bioderma Photoderm Max Lait SPF 50+DISCONTINUED 

    $36.00 USD
    Ingredients
    Water (Aqua), Dicaprylyl Carbo-Nate, Octocrylene, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Cyclomethicone, Alcohol Denat., C20-22 Alkyl Phosphate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Ptfe, C20-22 Alcohols, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ectoin, Mannitol, Xylitol, Rhamnose, Fructooligosaccharides, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Decyl Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Disodium Edta, Sodium Hydroxide, Propylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Ethylparaben.

    As you mentioned about the Anthelio sunscreen which contains some old filters, does it mean you will recommend Bioderma which effectively use Tinosorb S? Or do you know any brand that has very effective sunscreen ingredient such as Tinosorb S?

    Thanks!
    #96368
    preciousia
    Member

    For chemical sunscreens, i may consider one that does not have these properties

    • Absorb into the blood

    • Release free radicals in sunlight

    • Act like estrogen

    • Disrupt hormones

    • Cause allergic reactions

    • Cause skin irritation

    this is interesting. Shame about Octocrylene > Allergies: Relatively high rates of skin allergy and Avobenzone > absorbed into the body.

    Bioderma Photoderm Max Fluide SPF 50+d/c 

    $27.00 USD
    4 active ingredients: Octocrylene,  Tinosorb M , Avobenzone & Tinosorb S

    ingredients: Water (Aqua), Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Octocrylene, Methylene Bis- Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Cyclomethicone, Alcohol Denat., C20-22 Alkyl Phosphate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Ptfe, C20-22 Alcohols, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ectoin, Mannitol, Xylitol, Rhamnose, Fructooligosaccharides, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Decyl Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Disodium Edta, Sodium Hydroxide, Propylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Ethylparaben.

    #96369
    preciousia
    Member
    Another to consider is this
    La Roche-Posay Anthelios 50 Mineral Ultra Light Sunscreen Fluid, SPF 50 Face
    1.7 fl. oz. for USD$33.50

    Active Ingredients

    Titanium Dioxide 6% (sunscreen) • Zinc Oxide 5% (sunscreen)

    Inactive ingredients

    Undecane • triethylhexanoin • isohexadecane • nylon-12 • caprylyl methicone • butyloctyl salicylate • phenethyl benzoate • styrene/acrylates copolymer • silica • tridecane • dicaprylyl carbonate • dicaprylyl ether • talc • dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosspolymer • aluminum stearate • pentylene glycol • PEG-9 olydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone • alumina • polyhydroxystearic acid • phenoxyethanol • magnesium sulfate • propylene glycol • caprylyl glycol • PEG-8 laurate • disteardimonium hectorite • triethoxycaprylylsilane • diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate • tocopherol • propylene carbonate • cassia alata leaf extract • maltodextrin • benzoic acid • PEG-9.
    this is not sold in Australia. i don’t think TGA approved the SPF50 certification with those active ingredients. 
    More info on their LRP website
    #96372
    Peter
    Member

    Indeed BASF creates all kinds of ingredients for cosmetic products including sunscreen actives, it is one of the largest companies in this industry and is located in Germany, it has a good reputation. 

    It doesn’t look she’s applying 1/2 a teaspoon.
    Regulation of sunscreens in Europe is indeed different, however that doesn’t mean sunscreens are less effective, it may even have advantages over the FDA system. In most comparisons European sunscreens had significantly better UVA protection than American sunscreens. Because sunscreens are regulated as cosmetics, more companies are investing in developing newer better sunscreen actives. PPD ratings are almost never mentioned in Europe, those tests are too unreliably. Sunscreens must meet the 1/3 of the SPF protection factor as Dr Lens said.
    I see the formulation of the La Roche Posay and the Bioderma are different than we have here in Europe. So maybe for the international market they reformulate some sunscreens?
    The Bioderma uses Avobenzone (Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane), which is unstable on its own, but can be stabilized by adding Octocrylene and Tinosorb M (a newer more stable alternative to Avobenzone is Uvinal A Plus, which also has a better safety profile). I see the product contains some Alcohol Denat. But overall it is a good sunscreen, with relatively high amounts of Tinosorb. This specific version is discontinued however, but the new version has almost the same ingredients and a UVA rating of 42, without the parabens and alcohol. Ectoin has some research indicating it protects skin from UV-damage. It does leave a very noticeable white cast, due to the Tinosorb M. 
    #96375
    Tiffany60
    Member

    @Peter,

    Thank you very much. Will the Bioderma sunscreen be greasy and comedogenic due to the noticeable white cast? And Is the new Bioderma sunscreen you talked about, Cicabio sunscreen?

    INGREDIENTS – INCI

    AQUA/WATER/EAU, C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE, DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE, HOMOSALATE, ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE, ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE, ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE, GLYCERIN, BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, NYLON 6/12, CYCLOPENTASILOXANE, CAPRYLYL METHICONE, SILICA, SODIUM CITRATE, MANNITOL, XYLITOL, RHAMNOSE, COPPER SULFATE, ZINC SULFATE, SODIUM HYALURONATE, VITIS VINIFERA (GRAPE) VINE EXTRACT, ASIATICOSIDE, ASIATIC ACID, MADECASSIC ACID, ECTOIN, POLYACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER-6, HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER, DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE, 1,2-HEXANEDIOL, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, CYCLOMETHICONE, STEARALKONIUM HECTORITE, LAURETH-3, POLYSORBATE 60, SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE, HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE, PROPYLENE CARBONATE, ACETYL DIPEPTIDE-1 CETYL ESTER, BHT, POTASSIUM SORBATE, TOCOPHEROL, CITRIC ACID. [BI 689]

    btW, if you wanna see more detailed information, here is the website: http://www.bioderma.com/en/our-products/cicabio/spf-50

    #96376
    Peter
    Member
    Bioderma has about 30 different sunscreens here in Europe, all of them contain blends of Octocrylene, Avobenzone and Tinosorb. But you can see it yourself on the site of Bioderma ;-)

    I didn’t find the Max Lait SPF50 extremely greasy but it wasn’t mat either. But the white cast was what I didn’t like, you really look like a ghost with that product. The one that’s most natural looking is the Photoderm AR SPF50+-UVA 33:


    INCI:

    AQUA/WATER/EAU, DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE, OCTOCRYLENE, DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL, METHYLENE BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYL TETRAMETHYLBUTYLPHENOL, BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE, CYCLOPENTASILOXANE, BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE, HYDROXYPROPYL DIMETHICONE BEHENATE, POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE, GLYCERYL STEARATE, PEG-100 STEARATE, GLYCYRRHETINIC ACID, GINKGO BILOBA LEAF EXTRACT, TOCOPHERYL ACETATE, ECTOIN, MANNITOL, XYLITOL, RHAMNOSE, FRUCTOOLIGOSACCHARIDES, LAMINARIA OCHROLEUCA EXTRACT, GLYCINE SOJA (SOYBEAN) GERM EXTRACT, PROPYLENE GLYCOL, DECYL GLUCOSIDE, SILICA, HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE OIL, AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE/VP COPOLYMER, XANTHAN GUM, CITRIC ACID, TRILINOLEIN, TRILINOLENIN, TRIOLEIN, TRIPALMITIN, CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE, TRISTEARIN, IRON OXIDES (CI 77492), IRON OXIDES (CI 77491), IRON OXIDES (CI 77499), TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), DISODIUM EDTA, PHENOXYETHANOL, CHLORPHENESIN
    #96377
    Peter
    Member

    I use Derma Sollotion SPF30 and Uncover Skincare SPF15 at the moment for 3 weeks now, each one on one half of my face. Website http://www.derma.dk. You have to translate, or at least I can’t read Danish.

    Derma Sollotion SPF30:
    Aqua, Dibutyl Adipate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Glyceryl Stearate, Glycerin, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Ceteareth-20, Saccharide Isomerate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ceteareth-12, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Palmi-tate, Caprylyl Glycol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic Acid, Dehydroacetic Acid

    Uncover Skincare SPF15-UVA13 (I’ve chosen the SPF15, because the SPF30-UVA22 is really white, and then I wouldn’t be able to do a split face comparison):
    Aqua, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Methylpropanediol, Dipropylene Glycol Dibenzoate, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Niacinamide, Cyclopentasiloxane, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Cetyl Alcohol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Caffeine, Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleyl/Dimethylcarbonate Copolymer, Lecithin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Glycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, PPG-15 Stearyl Ether Benzoate, Decyl Glucoside, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Phenylpropanol, Propylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum.
    #96378
    preciousia
    Member

    I had a look at Derma Sollotion SPF30:, there is only 1 active ingredient which i like but the coverage is only UVA and not all of UVA too :( No UVB coverage either. Not broad spectrum unfortunately.


    @Peter the Uncover Skincare looks really good. Any idea how we can buy it?

    Uncover Suncare SPF 30 by Dr Jetske Ultee EUR 39,95
    • Protects against UVA and UVB radiation 
    • Contains safe solar filters Tinosorb S and Tinosorb M 
    • Niacinamide, caffeine and vitamin E for extra protection 
    • Do not leave any white film behind
    Aqua, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Methylene Bis-benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, methylpropanediol, Dipropylene Glycol Dibenzoate, Niacinamide, Cyclopentasiloxane, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Poly Methyl Methacrylate, Cetyl Alcohol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Caffeine, Hydrogenated Dimer dilinoleyl / Dimethylcarbonate Copolymer , Lecithin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Decyl glucoside, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Tocopherol, Helianthus annuus Seed Oil, Glycerin, PPG-15 Stearyl Ether Benzoate, Caprylyl glycol, Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Phenylpropanol, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Propylene glycol , Xanthan Gum.
    #96380
    preciousia
    Member
    BASF also makes a patented nanosized Zinc oxide called Z-Cote® i shared earlier. Am aware of BASF as a chemical company, i was in their office before briefly work related. I always thought it was industrial related, never thought one day i could be using a product containing something made by them. 

    I do see the European cosmetic companies investing more money in sunscreens, could be because of their size, same R&D costs can be divided into different sub-brands and made cost-effective. 
    In Australia, sunscreen is made affordable. Crazy cheap. So cheap that you don’t think twice about using 35ml for the whole body. As cheap as under AUD$20 for 500ml i have seen (chemical ones). The beaches are soooooo beautiful too, better than the caribbean imho. 
    In comparison, there are less incentives for the companies locally to R&D. We also have less large MNCs in Australia, the good companies tend to get sold off to USA or Europe. Sad really.
    #96381
    Peter
    Member

    The Derma Sollotion has an SPF of 30 so pretty good UVB coverage, it contains 3 uv actives. Ethylhexyl Triazone (Uvinul T150) is an extremely strong UVB filter, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone ( Uvasorb HEB) is considered the improved version of Uvinul T150 and protects against UVB and UVA. Also the Derma contains Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (Uvinal A Plus), which has the widest UVA coverage after Tinosorb M. 

    The Uncover Skincare uses only Tinosorb, I haven’t seen a brand doing this before. This results in the widest most broadspectrum UVB and UVA coverage possible. What I also really like about the products, they are formulated by dermatologist Dr. Jetske Ultee, she uses airless packaging and very good anti-oxdidants. I’m in love with her moisturizers, with Vitamin C and Niacinamide, she even stores the products refrigerated before shipping, ensuring the active ingredients will not deteriorate. 
    Looking at the following graph you can see the protection at 1% of sunscreen active: Tinosorb M protects best against UVA around 400 nm, then Uvinal A Plus, then Avobenzone. The only downside to this, it protects so well against UVA radiation that it appears white on skin.
    Ingredients for the SPF30 are almost identical:
    Aqua, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Methylpropanediol, Dipropylene Glycol Dibenzoate, Niacinamide, Cyclopentasiloxane, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Cetyl Alcohol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Caffeine, Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleyl/Dimethylcarbonate Copolymer, Lecithin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Decyl Glucoside, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Glycerin, PPG-15 Stearyl Ether Benzoate, Caprylyl Glycol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Phenylpropanol, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Propylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum

    The company Uncover sells also a sunscreen for the body:
    Aqua, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dibutyl Adipate, Diisopropyl Sebacate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Methylpropanediol, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Niacinamide, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Lauryl Glucoside, Pentaerythrityl Distearate, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Xanthan Gum, Glycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenylpropanol, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Citric Acid.


    The company Uncover Skincare, sells products in The Netherlands and Germany. Perhaps you can buy online and ship to Australia, I don’t know if they do that.
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