Makeup Removers: Does Oil Cleansing Really Work?

by Right Brain on March 15, 2008

Meg’s facial cleansing inquiry: Here’s a question for your lovely blog. The Internet is full of recommendations for the “oil cleansing method” which involves washing the face with various oils such castor, olive, jojoba, almond, emu, corncrake, and engine oil. There are all kinds of claims made for this method, one of them being “oil dissolves oil.” I guess that means that castor oil will remove sebum. It undoubtedly works for many people, but is that claim true? It seems an extraordinary one to make.

The Right Brain’s response:face wash
Thank you Meg, it’s lovely to have our blog called lovely! While we’ve never tried corncrake or engine oil, we do know that the oil cleansing is a legitimate way to dissolve dirt and oil and remove it from your skin.

Solving dissolving

For one substance to dissolve another it has to break apart the chemical bonds that hold it together. (We call the chemical that’s being dissolved the “solute” and the chemical that’s doing the dissolving is the “solvent.” Chemists are good at coming up with clever names like that.) Generally speaking, there are two kinds of chemical bonds: ionic and covalent. Not to get too geeky on you, but ionic bonds are formed by the attraction of two oppositely charged atoms and covalent bonds are formed by two atoms sharing a pair of electrons.

Like dissolves like

When you use oil to remove oily dirt you’re employing the chemical principle called “like dissolves like.” In other words, oils will dissolve other materials that have a similar chemical structure. As an example let’s look at emu oil just because the emu is a silly looking bird and it always makes us smile. The atoms in emu oil (the solvent) are held together by covalent bonds. Now, if the solute is greasy makeup or skin oils (aka sebum), it also consists of atoms that are hooked together with covalent bonds. So that means that emu oil is similar enough to dissolve all the gunk on your face. Cool, huh? What? You want to learn more? What are you, some kind of chemical sadist? Ok, far be it for us to deny you chemical knowledge – click here to read more dissolution theory.

Cleansers that dissolve

Cosmetic chemists use the “like dissolves like” principle to formulate oil-based cleansers in liquid and cream form. (Water based cleansers that use detergents to remove oil use an entirely different chemistry so we’ll save that discussion for another day.) The liquid cleansers are pure oil while the creams are oils mixed with water, emulsifiers and thickners. The classic example of a “cold cream” type cleanser is Noxema. Here are some other examples.

Examples of oil based cleansers

1. Max Factor For Long Lasting Makeup

  • Type of cleanser: Oil
  • Primary cleansing agents: Mineral oil, Isopropyl Palmitate

2. Pond’s Deep Cleanser & Make-up Remover with Cucumber Extract

  • Type of cleanser: Cream
  • Primary cleansing agents: Mineral Oil, Isopropyl Palmitate

3. Physician’s Formula Makeup Remover For Dry, Normal skin

  • Type of cleanser: Cream
  • Primary cleansing agents: Mineral Oil, Petrolatum

4. Kiehls Oil Based Cleanser and Makeup Remover

  • Type of cleanser: Oil
  • Primary cleansing ingredients: Isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, squalane

What’s your favorite facial cleanser? Oils, creams, or water-based? Share your secrets with the rest of the Beauty Brains community.

Nster.com

{ 34 comments… read them below or add one }

Karen March 15, 2008 at 11:30 am

DHC Cleansing Oil forever!!!

Anne March 15, 2008 at 11:46 am

Here is a link to a review of DHC’s Cleansing Oil by Beauty Anonymous.
http://beautyanonymous.blogspot.com/2007/12/dhc-deep-cleansing-oil.html

Jill March 15, 2008 at 11:51 am

I’m with Annie and Karen. I am a devoted used of DHC cleansing oil as well. It melts away even the stubbornist dirt and make up and rinses cleaner than any of the other products I’ve tried. Any further comments on the olive oil formula? I’m all ears!

The Style Page March 15, 2008 at 12:36 pm

What is The Beauty Brains’s opinion about two-phase eye makeup removers?

For travel, I like Almay’s oil free eye makeup remover gel. I know what it’s like for liquid eye remover to leak in my suitcase – I had to do some emergency shopping to replace stained clothing.

Judy March 15, 2008 at 1:47 pm

I use Pond’s Deep Cleanser and it requires some effort to get off my mascara. Testing the DHC product a couple of times impressed me!

Lisa March 15, 2008 at 4:01 pm

DHC is the BEST!

Cassie March 15, 2008 at 4:04 pm

does an oil cleanser clog your pores? I get what the brain said in the blog but it really seems counterintuitive to me.

Pas71 March 16, 2008 at 10:07 am

Very cool! It’s funny that this is here now, because we’ve just been discussing this in the forum. I can’t wait to try this! I think I’ll try the DHC brand. I just have to wait 11.5 weeks until I’m done with my acne med trial. =(

EMiriamD March 16, 2008 at 8:16 pm

I am a die-hard believer in Albolene as the first step in a two-step cleansing process. I tissue off all makeup, including waterproof mascara, with Albolene, then follow up with La Roche-Posay’s Effaclar cleanser for step two, a light lathering cleanse. I’ve never found any “regular” cleanser–including the Effaclar–that completely removes makeup.

A question for the DHC oil fans: when you tissue it off do you feel completely clean, i.e. NO residue, no oily or greasy feeling? And does it remove waterproof mascara?

Edward March 17, 2008 at 1:50 am

I don’t know much about these makeup Cleansers. I am suggesting you a link tuimagenpersonal.com
. Here you can clarify all your doubts about beauty and makeup.

AMK March 17, 2008 at 7:08 am

Ponds cold cream is one of the best things to ever happen to my skin. It’s toned down the oiliness to an amazing degree — I used to carry blotting papers everywhere I went, and now I don’t even need them. The only downside is that it is nearly impossible to clean out of my shower and sink, and that’s pretty gross.

Judy March 17, 2008 at 8:06 am

In yesterday’s Sunday paper there was a $1 off coupon for St. Ives Elements Olive Cleanser. I saw it at Target for $6.99. Do I sense a TREND here??

Cynthia March 17, 2008 at 10:14 am

MSCEE Skin Care has a creamer cleanser/make-up remover enhanced with emu oil. You can read more about it here: http://msceeskincare.com/creamycleanser.htm.

Disclosure: I work for MSCEE Skin Care.

Clare March 19, 2008 at 2:52 pm

I’ve been using Boscia’s Makeup-Breakup Cool Cleansing Oil for over 2 years and I’ll never use anything else. Eye makeup just slides right off – it’s amazing. You can get it at Sephora and some of the flagship Bath & BodyWorks stores. They also have a great website -
http://www.boscia.net/newsite/index.php

athena March 19, 2008 at 3:18 pm

i just started using boscia’s makeup-break cool cleansing oil myself. it’s really great! nothing has taken mascara off as well as this has. i love it!

Debra March 20, 2008 at 11:31 pm

Maybe I am missing something here, but I have been using olive oil – yes, right from the kitchen – with a few drops of lavender oil for aesthetic reasons as a nightly cleanser. It works well, costs very little, and my skin feels soft and clean. What more can I ask?

Amy March 21, 2008 at 1:28 am
aquadisia March 21, 2008 at 12:08 pm

I’ve been using jojoba oil for the past couple of months on my super oily skin. I can’t say I see less of difference in the frequency of breakouts, but I love how smooth and soft it makes my skin feel! No more flakies, possibly less comedones. As long as I don’t break out more than I usually do, I’ll continue this method.

geekgirl397 March 21, 2008 at 9:00 pm

I’ve been using a mixture of about 70% mineral oil (aka baby oil, but I get the unscented kind) and 30% jojoba oil with a few drops of essential oils just for the heck of it. I find it does a much better job of getting off my makeup than any other cleanser I’ve tried.

Many of the long-wearing lipsticks on the market now will *only* come off in the presence of mineral oil (most creamy makeup removers contain it). Vegetable oils (e.g. castor oil, olive oil, jojoba oil) won’t move them – that’s how the “gloss” that comes with them goes on top without removing the color.

So I figure I need some mineral oil to get some of my makeup off. It also seems to work well on waterproof mascara.

The jojoba oil is there because I like it, and for its moisturizing properties.

Each night I rub a few drops of the mixed oils all over my face, and use a bit more on my eyelashes. Then I wipe it all off with a soft baby wipe. Sometimes I rinse afterwards,sometimes not. Then I apply my night cream.

In the few months I’ve used this routine I think my skin has improved – few clogged pores.

My skin is combination oily/blemished/dry but in the winter i find the nighttime oil routine helps to soothe any flakies.

Much cheaper than the commercial products, works just as well, and with essential oils you can customize it.

dianna March 22, 2008 at 5:02 pm

i like putting virgin coconut oil on my face and then steaming it with a washcloth and massaging it in and then steaming it again and wiping it away. since i started doing this my adult acne and blackheads have gone away and i no longer need to exfoliate as much!!!
i am 48
djh

Shop With a Vengeance! March 24, 2008 at 1:49 pm

I used to use the OCM myself with grapeseed, castor, and almond oils. It worked for me for a while but I grew tired of the tedious and messy nature, so I’ve stopped.

I do agree that oil dissolves oil though, and it was good for that.

Plum Blossom June 16, 2008 at 12:14 pm

Love the Beauty Brains–great fun to read.
just wanted to weigh in on the “like dissolves like” discussion regarding oil cleansers. I have extremely oily, yet mature (41 year old) facial skin and the last thing I ever want to do is add more oil! But I tried a sample of DHC cleansing oil and am now a loyal user. It rinses off cleanly with just water and leaves my skin de-greased and soft. Cool!

Lora October 6, 2008 at 10:52 pm

I wouldn’t use mineral oil. It’s a petroleum product and not plant based.

Airbrush Makeup May 23, 2009 at 1:00 am

the picture in this post is wonderful that two of the girls are having some sort of creams on their faces and one of them is showing her tongue to other…:P

Pam June 13, 2009 at 7:50 pm

I make my own cleansing oils. Really saves the $$$ and I know what’s in it. Three parts olive oil to one part castor or safflower. It works great! Even gets off the mascara and eyeliner without stinging the eyes. That’s always been a toughie, removing eye makeup without stings or tears, so cleansing with oil makes sense for me.

Tammie July 10, 2009 at 11:04 am

I am a skin care formulator so clicked on the link for Shuuemera above and was absolutely shocked by all the chemicals in that cleanser. I would never recommend people to put that sort of stuff on their face. There are a lot of natural ones on the market, even almost completely natural, far better than what I read on Shuuemera.

R August 16, 2009 at 8:20 am

It really astonishes me that women spend so much money on these skin care items when you can make products yourself without all the artificial ingredients. It is amazing what some of these companies consider “natural”!

Anyway, I make my own cleansing oil and it costs me pennies. Oils such as Olive, Sunflower, Corn, Safflower etc. are great. Just put a little bit in your palm, rub your hands together and massage over your face. Remove with a dampened cotton pad. You will be amazed by all the dirt that comes off. Alternately, you can apply oil on a water dampened cotton ball or pad. In my opinion, a dampened cotton pad works better than a dry one. Just try it for yourself. Wipe the pad all over your face. It is great for removing lipstick and eye makeup. If you wear heavy eye makeup, make sure that you let the pad sit on your eyes for about ten or more seconds or so and GENTLY wipe away.

I like to wash with a natural soap afterwards (I make my own) and then tone with homemade vinegar and water toner (one part vinegar to eight parts water). Sometimes I use full strength vinegar – but not everybody can!

I have not used any commercial skin care products for more than ten years – all are homemade. I am 48 years old and am often asked what I use on my skin. I love it when the young girls ask me what they should do about their skin. I should also add that lifestyle is very important (i.e. no alcohol, drugs or smoking, eating a healthing diet)

dee February 23, 2010 at 5:36 am

I am trying to use oil cleansing before applying foundation because of very dry flaky skin after applying foundation. However the foundation I put on after the oil just slides off after a couple of hours…should I use an oil based foundation or just use the cleanser at night?

seasaw March 3, 2010 at 7:59 pm

I too have used DHC and of all the commercial cleansers I have used, this one is the best for removing everything, and leaving your face clean and soft. I had absolutely no problems with it. I don’t mind the price for such a quality cleanser, but the shipping and the price together was ridiculous, I got tired of ordering it.

I also, now just make my own and it works quite effectively and for pennies! I myself am finished with all the chemical junk they put in our personal care products, and my face and body seem to like it as well! But, if I had to order one product, it would be the DHC cleansing olive oil.

Karen November 3, 2010 at 4:30 pm

DHC Cleansing Oil is by far the best I’ve ever used. I can’t wait to wash my face at the end of the day. I follow it with DHC Mild Soap and feel squeeky clean, but not dried out. Wish they sold it in stores.

Karen Coghlan February 10, 2011 at 8:36 pm

I really liked the dhc products including the cleansing oil, I had been planning to come up with my own recipe for some time now, and while searching for recipes I found your discussion. It caused me to look at the DHC website for the ingredient list, and below is what I found.

DHC Deep Oil Cleanser
olea europaea (olive) fruit oil,
caprylic/capric triglyceride,
sorbeth-30 tetraoleate,
pentylene glycol,
phenoxyethanol,
tocopherol,
stearyl glycyrrhetinate,
rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf oil

lily November 10, 2011 at 8:42 am

I’m hooked on Neutrogena cleansing oil, it’s the best cleanser i ever used and it removes every trace of makeup or water-resistant sunblock, w/o leaving a residue. So I don’t need a second cleanser or a toner. :)

It’s pretty messy using cleansing oils though. So sometimes I use pond’s cold cream instead and tissue off, then rinse with water to be safe :) Once u start using cream cleansers or cleansing oils, all the other cleansers (e.g. gel cleansers, cleansing lotion, or cleansing milk) just don’t seem good enough anymore! Cos cleansing oils and cream cleansers are the 2 most thorough ways to remove makeup.

Material para uñas March 29, 2012 at 6:56 am

I have tried everything , but still I’m looking for the best oil remover mask,
i start with a new one name ¨Natura¨ , its a Brazilian one , i guess its the best so far .

thanks for the Post, i also had this question about using oil to remove oil?

Elizabeth April 14, 2012 at 3:52 pm

Ok, from a completely non-scientific point of view, I thought that maybe somebody got the idea for oil cleansers from how sebum dissolves our make up 5 hours into the day. Lol.

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