Jessica’s colorful question: What makes hair color “organic” and how does it compare to regular box dye and professional haircolor? If organic color is still able to lighten natural hair color, would it need to have ammonia and/or peroxide in it?
The Right Brain’s black and white response:
As we’ve blogged before, right now there is no specific industry-wide definition of what makes a cosmetic “organic.” Different companies approach organic in different ways: some add organic extracts, others try to limit “harsh” chemicals. So when we saw Jessica’s question about organic hair color we were intrigued. It sounded too good to be true, so we asked her to let us know some specific brands that she had seen. Two of the names she came up were EcoColors and Organic Color Systems. Let’s take a closer look at each.
EcoColors
Jessica, even though you cited this brand as being organic, we can’t find anything on their website that actually states that. But they do claim their products are designed for people who are worried about the chemicals used in “regular” hair dyes. They also claim that EcoColors are based on soy-derived ingredients. The impression their website gives is that their colors don’t use the same harsh chemicals that “regular” dyes do. Is this true? Not exactly.
It is true that one of the key ingredients, dihydroxyethyl soyamine dioleate, is soy-based. But the rest of the formula is a pretty standard combination of ammonium hydroxide and oxidative dyes with a hydrogen peroxide developer. So basically it looks like they’ve formulated their soy ingredient into a standard hair dye base.
Organic Color Systems
From what we’ve seen on their website, this brand never says that their product is organic. But the name of the product is says “Organic.” Sounds like a mixed message to us!
Ok, so they don’t claim to be organic, but they do claim to be ammonia free. In most coloring products ammonia comes from ammonium hydroxide (even Ecocolors as noted above.) Organic Color Systems is also an oxidative hair color system but they don’t use ammonia to raise the pH, they use a lower pH base in combination with heat. While this can still be damaging to your hair, if you’re sensitive to ammonia, this could be a good option for you.
The Beauty Brains bottom line:
These two hair coloring lines are trying to appeal to your fear of chemicals by being “Eco” and “Organic.” They may be perfectly fine hair colors, but don’t be fooled into thinking they’re better because they’re organic. To our knowledge it’s impossible to formulate a hair dye that is truly organic. (Henna dyes are about the closest you’ll ever get and those don’t lighten color.)
Do you color your hair? At home or in the salon? And what’s your favorite brand? Leave a colorful comment for the rest of the Beauty Brains community.
Similar Posts:
- Henna and Other Natural Plant Hair Dyes
- Is Hair Coloring Safe?
- Can I Dye My Eyebrows With Hair Color?
- Is There A Better Way To Get My Gray Hair Dyed?
- The Secret That All Women Should Know About Mens Hair Color
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Designergrl Says:
Thanks for this information, Brains!
Does anyone know of any hair color products that do not contain sulfates? Colors that don’t lighten the hair would be fine. thanks!
Casey Says:
Sounds like they are both basically marketing ploys…
Jayne Says:
What about the coloring options available from AVEDA ?
http://aveda.aveda.com/enter/color/default.asp
The Beauty Brains » Blog Archive » Henna and Other Natural Plant Hair Dyes Says:
[...] I’d like to know more about henna. You mention it very briefly in the article about “organic” hair dyes but you don’t go much further than that. Can one of “The Brains” do a feature on [...]
Annette Says:
EcoColors does not contain sulfites, their base is 98% natural.
Cheryl Says:
What about “All Nutrient” hair color? Is it truly organic? What about John Amico’s-”Jalyd” hair coloring system? Are they not organic? If not, why? I am a hair stylist of 18 yrs. & I use these colors. I want to know more. Thanx.
CHRISTINE Says:
To my knowledge amonia is not the evil here. It is necessary to open the cuticle of the hair for deposit or lift. More importantly, most hair color is petrolium based. I would rather not support the petrol industry by choosing a color that is soy & wheat based. And remember any time you mix two things together(developer & color) it becomes permanent. I hope this helps.
CS
jen symon Says:
hair color and highlights in salon
she uses majirel
chemist Says:
In Organic Color Systems hair color, they claim that they do not use ammonia – which is true. How ever ammonia can be unpleasant and smell is overpowering, but allergic reactions are not common. With this hair color, ammonia has been replaced with Ethanolamine which is known to cause lot of allercic reactions. They also use the most common allergic reaction cause in hair colors, Phenylenediamine or PPD in other words.
This is a clear case of something started in marketing department and plain misleading to consumer.
Let’s keep facts as facts and not play with peoples health. It is always advisable to contact your local allergy and asthma organization for more intormation about chemical allercies.
Be safe!
lek kremer Says:
I have psoriasis on my scalp and developed a severe reaction to the ‘normal hair dyes sold over the counter. What do you recommend?
Thank you!
Can I Dye My Eyebrows With Hair Color? | The Beauty Brains Says:
[...] what could go wrong, I don’t think dying your eyebrows is really worth the risk. And using organic hair color is no solution either. Maybe you could find a temporary brow colors that doesn’t have the [...]
Is Coffee Good For Coloring Hair? | The Beauty Brains Says:
[...] this color change is pretty typical.) So don’t expect to see a Starbuck’s Shampoo or organic hair color on your local supermarket shelf anytime [...]
mary ryan Says:
I am a hairdresser, adn am really affected by using color in the salon, <i thought <i was being safe by introducing eco color, but it seens that it also has ppd and ammonia. can you advise me what precautions <i should take, or what <i could use that would keep my healthy?
ibana villasenor Says:
well i checked thouse brands and there is a lot of truth,i use all nutrient organic cream base.
it uses ammonia (wich is an organic natural ocurring compound and to affect you i need to be in inhaling large ammounts )less than 2.0 in ligthest shades,and this one dissipates whaen tour are mixing the color,ye has son other chemicales in order to be a hairdye but guess what peolple is funny the want all some times you canot have all.
i do henna and herbals 100% natural but again deposit doesnot lift
so you know what beauty industry did a big step in making a better products ,less toxic?yes
fading beauty Says:
I have a question for left brains response to The Colorful Secret…
I’m concerned with indoor air quality and know there are threshold limits that have not been addressed by OSHA. (Well the last i looked into it was about 10 years ago and doubt there has been a positive change) These limits vary because of several circumstances within individual salons. So, left brain , would you say the oxidative hair coloring system in general is toxic? & would it be adviseable for anyone that has sensitivity to these chemicals to find a new profession! Also i was curious to your response to Cheryl the stylist of 18 years asking if ‘All nutrient’ and ‘Jalyd’ are organic.
thebeautybrains Says:
@fading beauty. This is a question best answered by your doctor. In general, people have been safely coloring hair for decades and there is no correlation between that profession and premature deaths.
Organic Colorist Says:
I am a stylist and I use organic colour systems. I think that it is insane not to admit that ammonia is a harmful chemical. Also, a fact that has not been mentioned, ammonia destroys the tyrosine in the hair. This protein is responsible for natural hair color and is what the actual color molecules MUST attach to. If there is no tyrosine than the color fades quickly… sound familiar? In response to ppd being a oil product. This is true, however, there is only ONE sourse of pigment available and that is ppd (we are not talking henna here which is a vegitable dye and is impossible to remove). It is not a question of which oxidative colors contain ppd but rather how much ppd is in the product. Organic colour systems contains roughly 1/10th of the amount of ppd than other colors. There is only 1 in 300,000 people that have a reaction to ppd. There are about 1 in 10 people that have some reaction to ammonia even if only a small burning or itch. Organic colour systems’ care products are also sulfate and paraben free. Hope this clarifies.
Master Colorist Says:
I have been a colorist for 17 years.
A few years ago I went looking for an organic color due to toxicity issues.
I used some of the above mentioned colors. I did not like the smell of them and I had clients that were reacting to them in an adverse way. Plus the colors faded with in a few shampoos.
I have since switched to Mastey Tincture Color line.
It is ammonia free.
No more lung damage and as far as I can tell it is PPD free as well as Ethanolamine free. Google ethanolamine and you’ll see that it is one of the strongest cancer causing substances.
Also a helpful web site is http://www.lesstoxicguide.ca/print.asp?mode=whole
Reyna Says:
Are all (or most) of these more “natural” hair dyes soy-based?
I’m allergic to soy. (So this gives me even less options for less toxic products. I have very dark hair so this limits my coloring options when it comes to natural hair dyes as it is.)
In fact, it’s a very common allergen so those of you who are colorists need to inform your clients of the ingredients.
I am curious about the aveda color systems as well. On that site, they all claim to be 93%-97% natural, etc.
IF that’s true, it’s better than completely full of chemicals. A step in the right direction at any rate.
I’m really not all THAT concerned about hair dye affecting my own health. It never has, nor has it anyone I know whose been dyeing their hair for 30+ years. I am concerned more about the air quality in my home, the possible toxicity of my pets inhaling it (when coloring at home), and the damage these chemicals may cause to the environment (whether coloring at home or in the salon), and somewhat about the damage to my hair, which is currently growing back in healthy after cutting off several years worth of dyed and bleached hair.
Are wigs more eco-friendly and non-toxic? Lol. Actually, I do have a few, but I don’t know that I’d want to have to wear one every day.
CARLA Says:
Hair color makes my hair fall out. Do I have any other options??
jane Says:
I am hairstylist for three year. i have a problem everytime i do colors to my clients i got allergies, could you give me an idea what kind of color line that i can use that free of ammonia.? thanks
Sheba Says:
Jane, I have heard many stories like yours from hairdressers. One friend of mine had chronic bronchitis and recurring bouts of pneumonia–her doctor thought it must be related to her trade as a hairstylist and the chemicals she was constantly in contact with. She switched to an ammonia-free product and her symptoms went away. Organic Color Systems is a non-ammonia product for hairdressers. If you’re not allergic to ppd, this is probably the best alternative for you because it sounds like you may have an ammonia allergy.
Best of the Beauty Brains 2008 | The Beauty Brains Says:
[...] know about hair extensions 4. Is Scalpmed a scam? 5. Is Pantene putting plastic on your hair? 6. The colorful secret of organic hair color 7. Is Argan oil good for hair? 8. Are natural cleansers better for your hair? 9. Can coconut oil [...]
Sonja Hyre Says:
To help with the question on hair dyes. I have been a stylist for 23 years. I too began questioning the possible dangers in hair dye and cosmetics. For three years now I have compiled evidence that the cosmetics, shampoos and moisturizers contain many toxic chemicals that over time build up in our system and becomes a health concern. Cancer is listed in many of the health concerns along with hormonal disruption, emotional and reproductive breakdown. Because of all the issues related to my industry I have made some major changes in my salon. We ARE using Organic Color Systems as our hair color. I have seem the most beautiful hair colors come from this product. No itch, no smell, no burn. Plus the hair is so shiney and strong. Because ammonia based color create capillaries in the hair shaft resulting on weakend,rough and lifeless hair. In my opinion it is the lesser of two evils and the finest color line on the market. We also carry certified organic shampoos, conditioners, soap bars, and a beautiful line of organic mineral and cream make-up. The response we have gotton with going green has been a very possitive experience. I’m healthier, your healthier and so is Mother Earth!
Linda Says:
i looked up the soy base in Ecocolors. Looks like it’s mostly plant derived.
http://www.cosmeticanalysis.com/ingredients/dihydroxyethyl-soyamine-dioleate
Also, that ingredient used in Organic Color Systems seems to have an odorless toxic fume. I want to stay away from that!!
http://ptcl.chem.ox.ac.uk/MSDS/ET/ethanolamine.html
Ecocolors says they do not use toxic amounts of any ingredients and they were approved in the EU.That says alot.
Lou Ann Says:
I am a hairdresser, and I’ve been in the business for 25 years. I started feeling sick working with hair color 6 days a week (I am doing between 3 and 8 colors a day!) I though I should leave the business, but 3 years ago I found ecocolors and we’ve been using it ever since in my salon. I no longer feel sick and seriously the customers appreciate it too, the smell of the color is almost pleasant and the hair is very healthy after the color process.
Not totally organic but in my opinion a very good/safe product.
sandra madjdi Says:
I am a stylist and a business owner. also i am eager to discover and carry a whole, natural, organic color line for both locations. as the world is going green, so is my styling and artistic aproach to prevent free radicals… if you could please help me with some hints in some new lines of color and styling products. i believe what makes a person successful in life is always being open minded and wanting to grow in your knowledge. Please get back to me as this is very important to our future. Thank You!!!
SANDRA
michele Says:
I too have been struggling with an altrnative to regular dye. I am a stylist with 17 yrs . experience. just within the last few years several of my customers have complained of moderate to severe itchy scalp. lasting anywhere from 1-3 days. I also have been suffuring.my local distributor doesnt offer any of these recomended products. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.currently using redkin color gels, and shades eq. love the end results, but……
Emmanuelle Says:
Non ammonia hair colors are extremely dangerous because ammonia is substituted with ethanolamine which is insidiously toxic. IMHO
Much safer to stick to ammonia hair colors, such as ecocolors.
Tina Says:
There are a lot of comments and some are from experience others are random. I also use Organic Colour Systems which has only been available in the U.S. for a short time. The EU which is the European version of the EPA is much more strict on the cosmetic ingredients list which is where this color line originated. If you check the MSDS sheets for Hydrogen Peroxide you might be shocked at its toxic levels etc…. Many organic chemicals are according to the MSDS sheets. However you MUST look closely at all the data.The proportions are very important. You can actually safe your skin from a harmful chemical burn by pouring straight ETHANOLAMINE on the skin. So how Organic matter is used and why has a big play in the entire product use…I am no chemist my self just a stylist that lives a passionate organic,green, bio dynamic,eco- friendly you get the picture life style.There are so many ways to call it today…but this is no passing trend.It is an absolute that our industry must wake up to all the chemicals and toxins used in our products. Organic Color Sytems has done a great favor to us all by starting the ball rolling for a less damaging professional hair dye…to us and our clients. It is free of Parabens, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate,Thioglcolates, plastics, amonia and others.The same applies to them as Eco-color with low amounts of PPD as possiable. ETHANOLAMINE also called MEA,ETA or 2-Ethanol is also defined as non toxic- it is actually a building block of some phospholipids within cell membranes. The point is it is a heck of a lot better then Goldwell. WE as professionals do need to read all the labels and be aware of the companies trying to fool us and our clients with gimmicks such as Natural…organic ingredients…etc. Cocain is natural and so is tar so what does that mean? What effort goes in on our part to call these companies out to rise up is also up to us. I think Eco color and Organic color or any company truly trying to make a difference is NOT just a marketing ploy…So call and ask all the detailed questions to any color line or hair product you want to use and get your answers…DO the research for your own health and the health of your clients and their hair.
Bobby Fintor Says:
Hello,
I was a bit put off by your writing about the better choices in hair coloring. You used words like they claim to be ammonia free. Where you unable to contact them to get a list of ingredients? You say you are scientist so why are you not simply stating the truth as your professional background accredits you too? I can email the ingredients to you if you would like. I would think as a scientist you would be less sensationalist and more factual.
I have been doing hair for 20+ years. I have used some of the most toxic chemicals out there and now use Organic Color Systems (OCS). It is not certified organic for one simple reason. Is it really possible to have organic Hydrogen Peroxide. It is made of water and almost all water used in products from food to cosmetics is cleaned/filtered. It is not possible to have organic water. Even rain water is not pure. Give it time and someone will lobby to enable some company to be able to label water with an organic seal.
A common unknown is that PPD the most common allergen is in most Henna’s. People have a belief that henna is so clean and safe. There is only one or two brands out there that are not just as toxic as ammonia hair coloring. Most also have heavy metals in them.
I haven’t had a chance to to use EcoColour. I am looking into it. I have been using OCS for a few years.
There is two very serious things about OCS that makes it better.
-Less chemicals then most. It is free of Parabens, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate,Thioglcolates, plastics, ammonia and others.
-It produces the same results, if not better then coloring with ammonia in it.
A interesting fact with hair products and other products is it is expensive to get a certified organic seal and with hair color because of H2O2 it’s almost impossible.
I think the choices are real and the more people discredit the truth the more harm is done. It has taken years to get companies to remove parabens from products. Most companies still are not. Why? It’s shelf stable and cheap to use. Do you want to risk it?
Bobby Fintor Says:
Hello,
I was a bit put off by your writing about the better choices in hair coloring. You used words like they claim to be ammonia free. Where you unable to contact them to get a list of ingredients? You say you are scientist so why are you not simply stating the truth as your professional background accredits you too? I can email the ingredients to you if you would like. I would think as a scientist you would be less sensationalist and more factual.
I have been doing hair for 20+ years. I have used some of the most toxic chemicals out there and now use Organic Color Systems (OCS). It is not certified organic for one simple reason. Is it really possible to have organic Hydrogen Peroxide. It is made of water and almost all water used in products from food to cosmetics is cleaned/filtered. It is not possible to have organic water. Even rain water is not pure. Give it time and someone will lobby to enable some company to be able to label water with an organic seal.
A common unknown is that PPD the most common allergen is in most Henna’s. People have a belief that henna is so clean and safe. There is only one or two brands out there that are not just as toxic as ammonia hair coloring. Most also have heavy metals in them.
I haven’t had a chance to to use EcoColour. I am looking into it. I have been using OCS for a few years.
There is two very serious things about OCS that makes it better.
-Less chemicals then most. It is free of Parabens, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate,Thioglcolates, plastics, ammonia and others.
-It produces the same results, if not better then coloring with ammonia in it.
A interesting fact with hair products and other products is it is expensive to get a certified organic seal and with hair color because of H2O2 it’s almost impossible.
I think the choices are real and the more people discredit the truth the more harm is done. It has taken years to get companies to remove parabens from products. Most companies still are not. Why? It’s shelf stable and cheap to use. Do you want to risk it?
I have been very happy that I come home from work and can breath. My clients have said they are amazed. Clients with very sensitive scalps have said it is so much more pleasant. I encourage you to try one of the lines if you color your hair to see first hand the difference.
Ann Says:
Aveda has very high ammonia. Has anyone tried Koko? It is an ammonia-free color. I just started using and the shine and longitivity is the best I’ve seen.Very new.
Annette Says:
Again ammonia is a natural occurring chemical. It is organic. There’s nothing wrong with color with ammonia and peroxide. It’s just a marketing gimmick to make you believe it is better to use non-ammonia colors but it’s a lie, the ammonia substitute is Toxic.
EcoColors has the best professional hair color, it beats OCS any day. I ‘ve been using ecocolors for 6 years now, you cna barely smell anything and my customers love it!
Narce Says:
Master Colorist, you mentioned Mastey Tincture Color, but I did’nt have any luck finding it online. Do you have a phone number or an address to give me? I am seriously looking for a healthier alternative in hair coloring. I appreciate any help you give me. Thank you.
Cat Lady Says:
I was a ECO Colors Customer for a year and then thought I wanted even better and went Henna…Don’t do it…your hair is never the same color twice and keeps getting red tones in it. It’s messy and a real pain. Then I had to wait forever to go back to ECO Colors and I still SEE RED so unless you like RED don’t do Henna. Maybe it’s me but I still see RED in my hair and it’s been 6 months since the Henna Experience.