Marchella’s mystery: I love love love this blog! I’ve got a quick question for you guys… I know you seem to respect The Cosmetics Cop’s reviews of products, but what do you actually think of her range? I’ve recently bought one of her toners and antioxidant serums, and I was wondering whether they’re really as full of beneficial ingredients, and as free of irritant ones as she claims. Looking forward to an impartial view!
The Right Brain’s arrested development:
We are big fans of the Cosmetic Cop and, in general, we believe that Paula’s Choice are well-formulated products. One of the brand’s key claims is that it contains fewer irritating ingredients. Is this true? Well, it’s tough to evaluate every ingredient in every product in Paula’s line. But as a faithful readers of The Cosmetics Cop, we know that Paula does a pretty good job of ferreting out the chemicals that are known irritants. For example, let’s take a look at one of her toners compared to Dr. Brandt, a well known prestige brand.
Paula’s Skin Balancing Toner for Normal to Oily Combination skin
Ingredients: Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol (water-binding agents), Niacinamide (vitamin B3/cell-communcating ingredient), Adenosine Triphosphate (cell-communicating ingredient/skin conditioning agent), Anthemis Nobilis (Chamomile) Flower Extract (anti-irritant), Arctium Lappa (Burdock) Root Extract (antioxidant), Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein (skin conditioning agents), Sodium PCA, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate (water-binding agents), Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate (skin conditioning agent), Ceramide 3, Ceramide 6 II, Ceramide 1, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol (lipid-based water-binding agents), Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (vitamin C/antioxidant), Oleth-10, DEA-Oleth-10 Phosphate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate (emulsifiers), Polysorbate-20 (skin conditioning agent), Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol (preservatives), Sodium Citrate (pH adjuster), Xanthan Gum (thickener), Trisodium EDTA (chelating agent), Phenoxyethanol (preservative).
Dr. Brandt Poreless Toner for Normal to Oily skin
Ingredients: Aqua (Water), Alcohol, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract, Glycerin, Camellia Sinensis Leaf (Green Tea) Extract, Polysorbate 20, Propylene Glycol, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil, Citric Acid, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil, Salicylic Acid, Sodium PCA, Panthenol, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Diazolidinyl Urea, Tetra Sodium EDTA, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Propylene Glycol.
A pore choice?
Probably the most impactful difference is that Dr. Brandt Poreless Toner
In addition, the Dr. Brandt product extracts like rosemary, lavender, and tea tree oil which are potentially irritating for certain people. Paula’s products deliberately stay away from ingredients like this.
Finally, Dr. Brandt uses a pair of parabens to preserve his product. And while there’s nothing proven wrong with these preservatives some companies have decided to remove them from their formulas to appease consumers. So, Paula uses phenoxyethanol instead. While it’s not as effective at preservation, it does impart a nice rose scent to the product. (For more info see our post on the Perils of Parabens.)
The Beauty brains Bottom line
This was just a quick example of how Paula’s Choice product compare; of course to be a full scientific comparison we’d need to evaluate many more products. But we’re just trying to give you a sense of what to look for.
And remember, less irritating doesn’t necessarily mean her products work any better than other brands. But if you’re looking for a brand products that’s designed to limit irritation we would recommend taking a look at Paula’s Choice.
What do YOU think? Have you tried any of Paula’s Choice products? Did you like them? Did you notice a difference? Leave a comment and share your thoughts with the rest of the Beauty Brains community.
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Hey! I actually am a HUGE fan of the cosmetics cop books and of her analysis and recommendation of products, especially since I have acne prone skin. I have not tried a LOT of Paula’s Choice products, but one thing (well, two) I use RELIGIOUSLY is her 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid Gel (which contains salicylic acid) and her Extra Strength Blemish Fighting Solution. I had tried Acne Statin (way back in the day!!LOL), Proactiv, Murad, and tons of drugstore products and NONE worked for me. I read her books and saw that one specific Clean & Clear product (which i couldn’t find anywhere) and hers were listed as the best at penetrating the pores. There was a lot of convincing scientific info which I don’t recall
but I have used it now for at least five years and I SWEAR by it. When I run out my skin FREAKS. (I really, really trust her because of this; most products I’ve used by her recommendation have worked fabulously for me!!) PS I have found your blog recently and it’s one of my new faves, so thanks to you too…xoxo
Also a fan (mostly) of her products. Love the BHA and AHA. Occasionally use the benz. peroxide and use the anti-oxidant serum around my eyes (seems I break out on cheeks/forehead if use there). For skin care, hard to beat price per ounce she offers. Also like the facial cleansers.
Makeup: lip paint I like, foundation — nice texture, but I ordered a shade too dark and had already thrown receipt out. Moisturizer w/ sunscreen was a miss for me. Felt odd and made me break out a bit. Cream concealer also like.
Three cheers for the Cosmetics Cop here!
Her site and its reviews was one of my key steps in becoming a more informed and sceptical consumer. And, following up on previous discussion – her products aren’t animal-tested.
I can also personally vouch for the following PC products:
— the 2% BHA liquid (minimal necessary ingredients, very mild)
— the 1-step cleansers are excellent
— the body wash is one of the few – and best – unscented ones available in the US (I’ve found others as good back here in Europe); as is the body moisturiser
— the mineral sunscreen (SPF 15) is my regular winter one: light, elegant, and works
— the hydrating treatment cream is perfect in colder, drier climes, and the rest of the year is a great eye-cream
— I also used the superoxidant serum; didn’t notice a huge difference, but it’s a great make-up primer!
Alas, the foundations and other face cosmetics themselves sadly don’t run pale-blue enough for me…
How can Paula be partial writing her Beauty Bible books and making products? She can’t.
She is in this for the all mighty dollar and so many people follow her word like lemmings. Her products are basic.
She is over-hyped as the be all end all beauty guru which she is not. She doesn’t have a cosmetologist license or a degree in science.
Some of her info is practical but for saying pretty much anything natural (made with essential oils, etc.) is no good is baloney. I have had great success with natural products including oils. Of course, anything can irritate even non-sensitive skin and no, $ doesn’t equal quality.
Another FAN of the Cosmetic Cop here. I recently bought her Don’t Go to the Cosmetics Counter without Me and have found it to be very helpful…she bases her ratings of skin care products on INGREDIENTS and STABLE PACKAGING.
I believe that she discounts anything with irritating ingredients as being harmful for skin over time. Continually irritated skin can become permanently damaged…or something like that.
I would agree that her cosmetics aren’t so great but she offers a lot of good alternatives to them in drugstore and prestige brands.
Although I like many individual products from her range, and – like I said – found her a useful information source, I must agree with gobc above: there’s a bit of a conflict of interest that stops PC’s criticism being impartial, and her products and guidance is not entirely infallible.
I, too, would rather take advice from a dermatologist – and by that I mean someone who’s got a degree in medicine / is an MD AND has extra training and qualifications in dermatology.
Even with someone super-well-trained, I’m afraid I’m now too well-trained myself, in good old fashioned scepticism, to accept everything I’m told without question.
On which point – I guess that’s where PC and The Brains would agree: question everything, don’t believe the hype – or buy the rhetoric or the nice aethetics of packaging – test everything, take responsibility for educating yourself about skincare and cosmetics (and anything else in everyday life), and make up our own mind.
Huge fan, though I tend to buy the drugstore products she recommends rather than order from them. Just for convenience.
If her reviews of brand cosmetics weren’t sincere and the poor ratings were directed only to draw attention/ consumers to her own line, she wouldn’t be recommending drugstore products that you can find anywhere.
In the drugstore, there are substitutes for virtually any product she sells, including the beta hydroxy acid.
I’m a huge fan, too, and I absolutely love Paula’s 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid liquid. Since I started using it over 2 years ago, my skin has never looked better. Paula’s evaluations and explanations of how ingredients work have saved me a lot of money, and now I know what UVA/UVB protecting ingredients to look for when shopping for sunblock.
The cosmetics cop is a mixed bag for me. I love Paula’s sunscreens. I can use them with confidence in UVA/UVB protection and they feel the best when I rub them in: nothing chalky or too greasy, no scent. Fabulous! I have used her cleansers but the drugstore options she recommends are just as good and cheaper. Her makeup, I have never been satisfied with. All of the colors are too dark and the foundations are too heavy. The eyeshadow didn’t stay put as well as other brands. I do love her customer service chat feature on her website; it’s been very helpful to me.
I’ve noticed, that she uses alcohol in alot of her moisturizers, they do seem to be lower on the ingredient list, so maybe they are in small enough quantities to not be drying, but it did make me not order them.
HOT…HOT…HOT topic. When I thought about the fact that PB has her own line I did wonder how she could be objective about other products but she has convinced me over time. At least she doesn’t resort to fantastic claims about her products.
I wish she wasn’t so anti-fragrance because aromatherapy can be very pleasant and relaxing and if it doesn’t make your skin freak out why not use scented products. I was sorry to see that Lavender is a BIG NO NO. Oh well I won’t give it up.
I get mixed emotions with Paula. I’ve never used her products so I can’t judge her on that aspect. I’ve flipped through her book and it is very helpful. For the most part her observations are accurate. I appreciate that she doesn’t say her products are the best and everyone else is trying to rip you off. Her main purpose is to educate women to be smarter in our purchases and she does that well.
However; when I went on her site I was turned off by her brashness. I don’t want a “Battle Plan” for my face. I’m not at war. I got lost trying to figure out what I needed and gave up. I also didn’t want to invest in tons of samples to figure it out. I just found her site pushy and confusing. It was even sort of obnoxious and it turned me off. I don’t have an interest in buying her products after getting lost in her site.
Lol, there are many “wonderful” ingredients but they’re only less than 1%.
i used to follow paula’s advice, but found that she was not much help to me, as her recommendations never failed to be wrong for my skin. i have used her products,as has my daughter, and find them to be on a spectrum from okay to irritating. one thing which irks me no end…she seems to revise her bad ingredient list to suit the formulation of her own products. not cool.
You keep saying Phenoxyethanol “impart a nice rose scent to the product.” That is wrong. I’m a cosmetic product develover and know that it’s Phenetyl alcohol you mean. Also used as an alternative preservative.
@Jessica – Not sure what naming conventions you’re following but we do mean Phenoxyethanol not Phenetyl alcohol. Phenoxyethanol is a preservative and listed in the INCI dictionary (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients). It’s the reference that all cosmetic companies in the United States are supposed to use for naming their ingredients.
I am a loyal PC customer. I use the lipstick, foundation, gel eyeliner doesn’t smudge), cleanser, BHA 2% liquid, mineral sunscreen, skin lightener, and super antioxidant serum. Her lipsticks feel well-formulated, have lots of MLBB colors, and do not make my lips become flakey (fragrance does that to me). The mineral sunscreen does not aggravate my rosacea in the least. After using the BHA gel for about 6 weeks, I stopped getting pimples, and they have not returned. My skin is sensitive to just about all of the irritants that she omits, and it means a lot to me that I can confidently buy anything from her line with no repercussions. With all other cosmetic lines, I have to read the ingredients list every time, and usually find that it has something that would make me rashy.
I have read her books and website reviews of other products for years, and I can tell you that when she thinks a competitor’s product is outstanding, good, or okay, she clearly says so, often enthusiastically. I have used her Beautypedia product reviews, which always say if a product has irritants, to hunt down some great products, both drugstore and department store.
She doesn’t include ingredients that other companies market as beneficial but actually have dubious scientific evidence for their effectiveness. Eg., for years she pointed out (truthfully)that there was insufficient research-based evidence that retinol was beneficial, and that it was irritating to some people (still true). She did not include it in her products. A few years ago she wrote in her newsletter about a new study that found solid evidence that retinol can be beneficial. About a year later she introduced new moisturizers that included retinol.
Some of her products do have ingredients that are irritating to some people (retinol, BHA, AHA, for example), but because they have proven benefits she has them available for people who can tolerate them.
I also appreciate that she keeps her prices lower than department store cosmetic prices, since the consumer is not paying for marketing, brick and mortar stores, cosmetic counter sales staff, excessive and/or luxurious packaging, or “gifts with purchase.”
Um, I know I sound over the top in singing her praises. It’s just that since discovering her books and products my face has looked a lot prettier, without spending beyond my budget, and I’m grateful.
I have purchased some of her products and found them to be good…not necessarily BETTER than others, or worse…but good and the price point is reasonable. A friend of mine with allergies to fragrances pretty much can only use paula’s choice products
Hi again. I didn’t mean that Phenoxyethanol isn’t a preservative. Off course it is. We use it in almost all of our developments. I meant that Phenoxyethanol doesn’t have a rosy smell. That I know of personal experience. What do have a rosy smell and is used as a preservative (not classified though as a preservative) is Phenetyl alcohol. That I also know from personal experience.
I’m a PC fan. I’ve had sensitive skin all my life and am particularly reactive to fragrance (including asthma symptoms). If that weren’t enough I’m also going through perimenopause. Using PC products – cleanser, toner, BHA, serums and moisturizers, as well as sunblock have done wonders for my skin. I have minimal wrinkles and the evenness of my skin tone has improved. Not bad for a 50 year old! As a bonus, I can breath!!! When my daughter enters puberty I’ll be encouraging her to use PC as well.
I tried the makeup and wasn’t so thrilled. Using Beautypedia, I use her advice to find other products that I’m happy with at any price point I’m in the mood for.
i am on the fence about her. her eye makeup is quite nice. i have a problem with some of the ingredients she thinks are ok. against my better judgement i ordered her skin lightening product to try on my hyperpigmentation. did nothing except irritate and cause a perpetual breakout. she hypes the use of Hydroquinone for skin lightening yet it is a banned substance in other countries. she seems to hate natural and organic skincare lines such as eminence organics. i have used the eminence products in the past, and it was probably the best my skin ever looked. i did use her advice on a neutrgena bha product to help with cystic acne and that advice has worked since trying 3 months ago. she has a bha product, but it is more $ than the neutrogena. I say you can trust about 50% of her advice and her products are hit or miss.
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Paula’s Choice products are very high quality products that have truly made a difference in my 44 year old skin. To say that a dermatologist’s recommendation is more impartial is simply not true. Almost every dermatologist I have been to have recommended the line they sell, at considerable expense, I might add. I even had one dermatologist tell me he did not promote Botox because he could not make enough money doing it. I still can not find a dermatologist I am happy with, but I have found a skin care line that I am thrilled with. Not one dermatologist I have been to has done a decent exam–one didn’t even ask for a medical history! What kind of physician is that? Not one has asked if I used sunscreens or if I have a family history of skin cancers. Read Paula’s thoughts and advice on sunscreen. She gives sound advice and sells her products based on that advice. She also recommends other products than her own. What other skin care line does that?
Jessica is right, it’s phenethyl alcohol (also called 2-phenylethanol) that has the rose scent not phenoxyethanol. The difference? One oxygen atom (and the odor!)
As far as I can see the ingredients she uses are okay. Except for Trisodium EDTA. That is less recommendable. It weakens cell membrane and is environmentally relevant. Also her ingredients list is quite long. Almost 30 ingredients. Too long for my taste for a toner.
‘nother Paula fan right here! Her 2% betahydroxy acid exfoliant changed my complexion completely and the day moisturiser with 15+ is fantastic! I’ve turned all my family and pals onto the brand and they tried it out because I told them to but they have re-ordered on their own.
I actually love her blog too and based my choices for skincare products to buy from her site. But I haven’t tried her line yet so now that I’m fully convinced with your article, I will buy some products from her line.
I love PB. Following her advice has helped my skin. She recommends products other from other lines (raves about some of them, in fact), and her own products I’ve found are excellent and affordable.
Absolutely love PB. Before I found her books I used to spend a fortune on expensive cosmetics, and creams.
My skin tends to have break outs and I have tried everything. BHA 2% and benzoil peroxide have tamed it down and my skin looks great. I have used her sunscreens and loved them too.
When people say they trust dermatologists I laugh. Mine recommended Accutane for occasional spots! So yes Paula is making money but she is an honest person.
I have been reading the “Don’t Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me” books for years which is interesting; it gives me a perspective on how her opinions have changed over time. Parts of her reviews are unfair, I feel – for example, she describes pore strips as harmful, saying you’re supposed to “rip” them off your skin, when really you should peel them, not rip as if you were waxing. She said in previous editions that although masks “can be a relaxing, pampering interval for women”, they really don’t do anything for skin — but now, she sells masks – and voila! She says that her clay mask is “unique”, absorbs oil, and helps draw out blackheads. It’s bothersome that she always claimed that toners and masks were superfluous in skin care… until she started selling them. That being said, I’ve ordered her beta hydroxy product for the first time (haven’t gotten it yet) because the handful of recommended drugstore products are hard to find, so I’m hoping it goes well.
I have sensitive skin and have used her Skin Recovery Series for over a decade and am devoted to them. When I’ve been tempted and strayed, I’ve always returned to them. I don’t think they can be beat especially for the price. On the other hand, I have found her cosmetic formulations to be rather heavy, limited in color choices, and somehow a bit dowdy in effect. It is interesting to note that she has drastically slashed her makeup line to focus on skincare. I suspect the color cosmetics were not selling well. Her reviews reflect her tendency to favor a heavier makeup so that items giving sheer coverage will be rated lower. Since I favor transparency and minimalist makeup, I read the reviews carefully rather than just going by her “best products” summaries in order to find the type of product I favor. Has anyone else noticed this tendency?
I recently tried the shampoo and conditioner as the salon-recommended product was irritating my skin and causing rashes to develop on my skin. Not only do I no longer have the rashes, but my hair felt softer and smoother after just the first washing.
So I have to give the shampoo and conditioner a big thumbs up. Now if she just made some other hair care products I would be set. ; )
I am going to try some of her other products and see how they do for me.
I really like her extra care moisturizing sunscreen (spf 30), it has just a touch of physical block combined with broad spectrum chemical sunscreens, and it definitely agrees with my skin. The pure mineral would have been nice, but was too chalky on my skin (I can use it around the eye area, though). I like her daily mattifying lotion, too.
I’m picking up on some old comments here about phenoxyethanol. I’ve noticed that it does have a faint rosy scent, and it seems that I’m allergic to it. I’m a big Paula’s Choice fan, partly because she offers unscented products, but I wish she and other companies wouldn’t put phenoxyethanol into their “unscented” products. It’s just another sneaky scent snuck into unscented products to make them smell better! Yeah, sometimes unscented products don’t smell very good. Still I think products formulated for sensitive skin and allergic people should contain the least-allergenic preservatives. Even a prescription nasal spray that is supposed to lessen allergies has phenyl ethyl alcohol in it, which is a preservative that is similar to or maybe the same as phenoxyethanol. I used it once and couldn’t believe I was spraying rose scent up my nose, in the height of spring hayfever season. I’m not sure, but from my reading I think parabens are the least likely of all the preservatives to cause allergic reactions.
I tried Paula’s Choice at the recommendation of a friend. I like her site and appreciate what she is trying to do. But the products just did not work for me. I tried them for months and, although you can return them, incurred a lot of shipping fees for the effort. In the end all the products did for me was turn my face red. Even the sensitive skin products were irritating. So, not a match for me. My friend continues to love her products and has lovely skin to show for it. Wish it worked for me. I do still check out her reviews for other products and believe she is trying to give honest reviews even thought she has her own line of products.
I find Paula’s Choice as just another brand. I mean, she has a huge fan base. Great on her. But the way she writes those reviews on her website is clearly biased towards her products. She usually give high ratings for her own products while in reality, all products should be given equal standing. I mean, one man’s meat is another man’s poison. Doesn’t mean she rates it as bad, it means that it is going to be bad for everyone. Also, the way she writes is similar to what one expect from those cosmetic leaflets one gets from the beauty counters at a posh supermarket, except her products are affordable. Period.
Doh! I was domain name shopping at namecheap.com and went to type in the domain name: http://thebeautybrains.com/2008/06/30/are-cosmetics-from-the-cosmetics-cop-really-a-good-choice and guess who already purchased it? You did! lol j/k. I was about to purchase this domain name but noticed it had been taken so I decided I’d come check it out. Wonderful blog!
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