Do Salon Shampoos Have Better pH?

by Left Brain on August 18, 2008 · 17 comments

Health Products Guru writes: I can tell you that without a doubt there is a huge difference in the quality of most and I say most shampoos that salon versus the drug store level. My own hair and scalp issues are the proof of this. The pH of grocery store shampoos is too high 99% of the time.

The Left Brain responds:shampoo

I respect your preference for salon shampoos, if you want to spend your money that way thats your choice. But your supposition that the pH of mass market brands is higher 99% of the time is simply false. But before I prove why, let me explain about the pH of shampoos.

What is a good pH?

Shampoos tend to be fairly neutral so they fall around the middle of the scale between 5 and 8. Shampoos that contain cationic conditioning agents are generally formulated a little lower and deep cleansing shampoos designed to get rid of styling residue are formulated at slightly higher pH to neutralize styling resins. But overall you should expect your shampoo to have a pH between 5 and 7.

Are salon shampoos different?

Salon shampoos do not employ any special technology that makes their pH different from mass market products This is not a matter of opinion, it is a fact that I easily verified. I took samples of ten different shampoos, some from salons and some from grocery stores and then I measured their pH using a standard laboratory pH meter. Here’s what I found:

Grocery Store Brands (Average pH = 5.95)
Dove Intense Moisture = 6.05
Fructis Moisture Works = 6.64
Herbal Essences Hello Hydration = 6.20
Tresemme Antibreakage = 5.40
White Rain Extra Body = 5.35
Yes To Carrots = 6.07

Salon Brands (Average pH = 6.14)
Matrix Amplify = 6.76
Redken All-Soft = 5.59
Samy Salon Systems Smooth and Shine = 6.08

The Beauty Brains bottom line

As you can see from this data the premise that 99% of all grocery store shampoos have a higher pH is simply not true. In fact in the samples I measured the salon products had the highest pH. The pH will vary by brand and doesn’t depend on where you buy it.

What do you think? Do you buy salon products because you like the way they feel on your hair or because of some sciencey sounding nonsense that you’ve been told? Leave a comment for the rest of the Beauty Brains community.

{ 17 comments… read them below or add one }

Sybbis August 18, 2008 at 12:19 am

To be fair, it might have been nice here to see a slightly larger sample. Given the number of brands out there, and then the number of individual products each brand produces, ten individual products (and only three from salons) seems *really* small.

Not that I really doubt the conclusion, I’m just really picky about statistical evidence.

Kai August 18, 2008 at 3:53 am

I highly doubt doing a larger sampling of more brands would change the fact that the salon shampoos and grocery store ones have pH that is not related to its price/brand.

And the claim that “grocery store shampoos is too high 99% of the time” seems more preposterous than scientific.

Sara August 18, 2008 at 8:27 am

When I was in high school, I used to use drug store brands because that’s what I could afford. Every single time I went to get my hair cut, the hair stylist would ask what shampoo I used. When I would mention a drug store brand (Pantene, Salon Selectives, Herbal Essences, etc.) they would always say how anything you buy in a drug store is high in pH and is basically not good for your hair. I figured out pretty early on they were just saying this to sell their products. It was very annoying! I never asked for their opinion, and they would keep bugging me about it. Now, out of personal preference, I use hair stuff from Arbonne and Bath & Body Works. I haven’t used drug store brands in years, though I haven’t been bugged about what shampoo I use in years either. Not sure if that’s a coincidence or if the stylists can really see a difference. I vote coincidence!

Janis August 18, 2008 at 11:19 am

I love posts like this. :-) People seem stunned that things like pH and other scientific words actually mean things that can be tested by them right under their noses.

Janis August 18, 2008 at 5:30 pm

BTW, anyone who’s curious — google “litmus strips” and you can get a whole ton of little bits of paper that can be used by you with almost no training at all to do rough pH testing yourselves at home. If you’re into making your own shampoo or conditioner, you should probably have them anyhow.

They’re just bits of paper that you dip in things, and they turn pink or blue to varying shades depending on the pH of the stuff you’ve dunked them in. This is the sort of kitchen science that anyone can do, seriously.

Dreniva August 19, 2008 at 10:34 am

Hi! Do you know where can I buy the pH meter ‘coz I want to test which shampoos and conditioners are the most acidic so it can intensify the shine of my hair? And my other question is that if will I add lemon juice to a shampoo or conditioner it will help to lower its pH? It is because I want a more shine to my hair. Thanks!

spa girl August 19, 2008 at 12:32 pm

It does depend on the brand. I used Pureology for some time (5.5 pH) and now use EnJoy products (4.5 – 5.5 pH for moisturizing shampoo.) Does it make a difference? Less breakage, softer hair, less frizz – yes.

BTW, I did learn all this from my stylist, who is a rad chemist. Do I buy product at the beauty supply store if they sell it for less? Of course.

Dreniva – many of the big brands will tell you the pH of their products on their website. Have fun! The reconstructing products will have a low pH to lock in the cuticle. If you color your hair, try Zerran Chemical Modifier pH 2.5 – 2.5 to lock in color and bring up the shine. (But don’t use it every day – it will dry out your beautiful hair!)

astrobiologiste August 19, 2008 at 3:57 pm

The important thing here is, i guess… What’s the deal with the pH of shampoos, and why do they recommend you use a low pH one?

Hope you brains can clear that one out

spa girl August 19, 2008 at 5:50 pm

7 pH is neutral, below 7 is acidic, below 7 will be alkaline. The more alkaline the shampoo, the more likely it will open up the outside cuticle of the hair (made up of protein substance, keratin) leading to frizz. The inner cortex of the hair is also more fragile and prone to damage – dryness, breakage, etc. So lower pH shampoos are promoted to help seal the cuticle, maintain the structure of the hair and also some acidity breaks up soap scum and accumulated gunk in your hair. That’s the deal.

spa girl August 19, 2008 at 6:06 pm

correction to my posting – above 7 is alkaline

Terri September 11, 2008 at 9:12 am

These postings are really interesting and it is surprising how many people are uninformed. Yes, a pH of 7 is considered neutral on the pH scale, but that doesn’t mean your shampoo should be a 7. That is much too high! Normal healthy hair is a pH of 4.5-5.5, so for a shampoo to be good for the hair and not open up the cuticle and cause damage, it should fall within that range. Anything outside that will pull hair color and cause damage to the cuticle. Unfortunately, a lot of the so-called “color safe” shampoos are way above 5.5.

Left Brain September 11, 2008 at 11:24 am

Have you considered that you dilute your shampoo with water while using it in the shower? The pH of that water really depends on where you are, but it’s generally around 7. Therefore, the resulting solution on your hair is much higher than 4.5-5.5. It is much closer to pH 6 or 7.

Also, I’ve kept up on the latest research literature in cosmetic science and am not aware of any study that says shampoos with a pH above 5.5 will damage the cuticle. Could you please site your source?

One more thing, technically hair has no pH as it is a solid. pH is a measure of the concentration of H ions in a solution. Solids do not have pHs.

Lynn January 28, 2009 at 10:16 am

Plastic surgeons recommend Johnson’s Baby Shampoo after surgery. What is the Ph level this product — A hairsylist told me it was 14. I know it leaves the hair feeling coated and unclean.

Carlo March 4, 2009 at 8:33 pm

I know you can adjust pH levels by adding citric acid/lactic acid etc. to make it more acidic (less than 5.5). On the other hand you can add TEA/EDTA etc. to make it more alkaline (above 5.5).

My question is, will it affect the performance of the conditioning agents and other actives in the shampoo or conditioner?

Left Brain March 6, 2009 at 11:33 am

@Carlo – It really depends on the specific system and how much you adjust the pH. Typically, a lower pH will be better for conditioning ingredients. This will increase their tendency to “stick” to the negatively charged sites on the hair protein.

But practically, you would not be able to notice any measurable differences between a shampoo at a pH of 4.5 versus one at pH of 7.

Ian April 22, 2009 at 8:12 pm

Having a higher pH level is better in the acidic table because it means it is closer to the neutral, water, which has a pH of 7. Thus, your store-bought shampoos are healthy for you. You have to see it as a two part table.

Acids Neutral Bases
^^^^^
You want your shampoos between 4 and 6 to provide the maximum results. As you travel up the pH scale, it does not always mean your shampoo is bad. Be aware. If you go up to the bases, you’ve gone too far. Haha.

Meg July 10, 2009 at 9:02 am

Regard less of High PH! As a 10 yr hair stylist I can feel the difference in a persons hair when they are not using a salon quality shampoo & conditioner! There hair has major build up from the store bought shampoo/cond.(and they wonder why there hair is so flat & doing nothing)!! With salon Shampoo’s & Conditioners use will only need to use a small amount in your hair which will be saving you money in the long run compared to using a store brand shampoo/Cond which is watered down & you need to use more!
Yourself & your hair are worth it! I guarantee if you use a salon Shampoo & Conditioner for a few weeks you will majorly feel & tell a difference in your hair!!!! And you don’t have to spend a fortune there are many different brands & prices in salon products, look for the litter sales too!

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