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How Does Estee Lauder Idealist Work?

by Left Brain on January 13, 2010 · 10 comments

Rosabella’s request…A friend of mine swears by Estée Lauder’s Idealist to make her pores look smaller. So do a lot of people online whose reactions and reviews I’ve read, but a lot of them can’t get over the price. Neither can I! Do you know what’s so special about the formula? Do you reckon it works?

The Right Brain responds:

According to Lauder’s website Idealist contains “Pore Diminishing Technology” that “makes enlarged pores look virtually invisible by treating their appearance from the inside out…to dissolve away pore-clogging debris.” The website goes on to site three specific ingredients that make up this technology:

How Idealist works

1. The powerful anti-oxidant NDGA helps shrink the look of enlarged pores by helping reduce the visible irritation that can lead to a build-up of excess oil deep within pores.

2. Gentle-acting Chestnut Extract helps free your skin from dry, dulling, flaky skin cells.

3. Glucosamine (a sugar-derived, non-acid refinisher)… loosens the bonds that bind dead, dulling and flaky cells to your skins surface.

For the sake of thoroughness we’ll include the complete ingredient listing:

Idealist Ingredients

Purified Water, Dimethicone, Polysilocone-11, Cyclomethicone, Sodium Lactobionate, Isopentyldiol, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldie-thyltaurate Copolymer, Green Tea (Camellia Sinensis) Extract, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Wheat (Triticum Vulgare) Germ Extract, Barely (Hordeum Vulgare) Extract, Sodium Glycyrrhetinate, Modified Polysaccharides, Sclareolide, Whey Protein (Lactis Proteinum), Saxifraga Sarmentose Extract, Grape (Vitis Vinifera) Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Mulberry (Morus Nigra) Root Extract, Cholesterol, Caffeine, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Acetyl Glycosamine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pantethine, Acryldimethyltauramide Copolymer, Phenyl Trimethicone, Lavender (Lavandula Angustifolia), Glycerin, Soidum Carbomer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Grapefruit California (Citrus Grandis), Polyethylene, Polysorbate 20, Soidum Acrylodimethyl Taurate, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, Floralozone, Polysorbate 80, Methyldihydrojasmonate, Isohexadecane, Coriander (Coriandrum Sativum), Phenoxyethanol, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, MICA, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499) {ILN17378}.

How does Idealist work?

At least one of these key ingredients, Glucosamine, has been shown to have efficacy in testing published in a peer reviewed journal. (See Pubmed reference.) Researchers (from Estee Lauder) found that this sugary material can help keep pores clean because it has similar effects to alpha hydroxy acids. Since debris from skin cells is one of the causes of enlarged pores, it makes sense that loosening dead skin cells could help diminish how big they appear.

I’m still skeptical, but at least there is some real science behind what the product says it will do. However, the degree to which the product delivers what it promises is highly subjective.  Idealist claims to make “pores appear 1/3 smaller—instantly” and that you’ll  “see a 69% reduction in the look of pores in just 4 weeks.” You’ll notice that these claims are all about the “look” of the pores. That means Lauder has some kind of perception data – they had women used the product and they asked them to rate the appearance of their pores. Just because they noticed a statistical difference doesn’t mean you’ll be satisfied with the degree of improvement. And unfortunately, it will cost you $46 for 1 ounce of product to find out for sure.


Have YOU tried Idealist? Leave a comment for the rest of the Beauty Brains community and share your Idealist ideas.

{ 10 comments… read them below or add one }

Stefanie January 13, 2010 at 8:19 am

I’ve tried Idealist – and I do love it. My pores do look smaller, and the skin looks smoother. I use it every night and as a make up base: it has a little bit of silicone, so the make up glides smoothly over it. But, yes, it is not cheap: I buy the bigger size (cheaper in the long run) and use only two drops maximum. Thay way, it lasts me three months.

Kathryn January 13, 2010 at 6:00 pm

Couldn’t you just get the same effect from using a salicylic acid wipe and some silicone primer?

Blue Cat Baby January 15, 2010 at 12:27 pm

I love the saying on the t-shirt in the photo. It describes my feelings about beauty products. I am a cynic about their claims because I have been disappointed by so many products.
So glucosamine might act like an alpha hydroxy acid. Right now I use glycolic acid and salicylic acid on alternating days on my large pores (and they still look large). Might adding this glucosamine product to my routine make my pores look smaller? Another question: might this product work on pores is the pores also contain blackheads? (which mine do).

Kathryn January 15, 2010 at 2:01 pm

Dermatologists who aren’t selling anything recommend night-time use of Retin-A for blackheads, with an AM gentle scrub or salicylic acid (beta-hydroxy acid, not alpha) if your skin can hack it. I do this, and even so I get some blackheads. I don’t see where adding this expensive alpha hydroxy clone is going to help with that. I understand that it’s the betas that work inside the pores, the alphas are better at the surface.

alice April 4, 2010 at 11:38 am

so it’s only temporary and acts like a primer?

Alexander April 13, 2010 at 3:43 am

Have tried it once. It’s one of the best cream I have ever tried

Estee Lauder Idealist June 22, 2010 at 6:02 am

Hello,

I use estee lauder cosmetics very long time. I can it review as posotive

Rin December 29, 2010 at 7:59 am

I wish this post was about Idealist alternative but at least now I know the key ingredient [I thought it was the grape or grapefruit extract]. I’ve been using Idealist for quite some time and all this while I do not believe it’s worth all that price. I mean it IS working for me, since my skin can’t tolerate those acid wash [beta or alpha], so I’m stuck with it. Now, can anyone suggest a good lotion that contains Glucosamine? Or please beauty brains, do recommend something as an alternative to Idealist. Thanks!

K-mon February 17, 2011 at 12:50 am

Thank you for pointing out what I HATE about the research that the cosmetic companies present in regard to perception. Philosophy (the company) has this great line that says, “100% of women said their skin felt more hydrated.” Bad science is infuriating. However, I’ve only used the Idealist a couple of times, but it seems really nice, and it helps my moisturizer and make up go on smoother. Is that worth the price? I’ll know in a few weeks, I suppose. Although, anecdotal evidence is on dubious scientific ground…at least for everyone other than me. Also, much love for citing pubmed.

Debbie June 10, 2011 at 4:08 pm

I have used Idealist for a few years. I LOVE it! Is it a miracle? Probably not, but I definitely notice a difference. It makes my make-up go on much smoother. I has a nice feel, scent and texture to it. It is expensive but a little goes a long way, really long! I buy the $125 bottle when there is a gift set. I would have to guess it lasts at least a year.

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