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Essential oils

When I went to beauty school (yes, I did, but I'm going in to pharmacy or medicine because chemistry is way cooler), we were taught that essential oils, for instance Decléor products are small enough to penetrate the skin, some of them to dermis, and do all sorts of things. What do you guys know about this? Are they any good? Thank you :)


  • PS: Do you have any specific essential oils or any specific products in mind? I took a quick look at the Decleor websiite and saw things like their AROMESSENCE™ NÉROLI which claims to be "A 100% pure and natural concentrate, it softens and helps to relax the skin, restores the complexion’s natural radiance" which is not a very meaningful claim and certainly doesn't have anything to do with penetration to the dermis. 

    If you have a specific example or two we'll try to look into them. 
  • I can try and see what I find. We are renovating our apartment, unfortunately I can't find my books at the moment. But I do remember that they were all for essential oils (perhaps because the lady who wrote the chapters on cosmetic chemistry works with distributing Decléor). If I can't manage to find anything on the internet, I will get back to it when I find my books. 

  • This turned out to be a lot harder than I thought, but I'm frustrated, I just can't grasp the deal with those essential oils and plant extracts. The Cosmetics Cop does not seem too excited about them, though:

    But that L-proline that is being used for instance in Decléor's Lift and Firm Day Cream.. Does it work? My book says that physical and psychological stress reduces the amount of proline in the skin. This reduces the quality of the collagen fibres and make the skin less firm. 

    Do you think that their Aromessence serums in general work, that they do what it says they do? 

    I see that in the textbook, a tremendous amount of ingredients are mentioned, which leaves me with a tremendous amount of questions :-(

  • Regarding L-Proline: 

    Proline is an amino acid that plays an important role in collagen synthesis. Most people get plenty of proline in their diet. 

    There are several studies that indicate that topically applied proline (5%) can accelerate wound healing in people who are deficient in in prolidase.

    I found one study which shows that topical application of a proline derivative (1-carbamimidoyl-L-proline) can help plasticize the stratum corneum and reduce wrinkles. 

    I don't see anything to indicate that low levels of proline in a skin care product will do anything for healthy individuals. 

    And overall we'd agree with Paula's assessment on these products. (Except she's a little harsh on essential oils sometimes.)

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