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We’ve got a fully packed program today.  We’ll be covering a couple of cosmetic science news stories, catching up from my hiatus and answering questions about…

  1. Is silicone suffocating hair and causing hair loss?
  2. Do proteins in nail products strengthen nails?
  3. What is goat’s milk doing in soaps and more?
  4. What’s an affordable version of Skinceuticals Triple Lipid Restore?
  5. Is Bakuchiol safe during pregnancy?

LA trip chat – Eco well sustainable beauty panel

Beauty Science News #1

Is Deva curl making people’s hair fall out?

Revlon teams up with the EWG

Hallmark Channel rant

Question 1  – Audio

Jemma – Do silicone suffocate the hair and cause hair loss?  Is there any element of truth to this?

In short, no they don’t. In long, silicones is a term for a large class of molecules featuring a silicone backbone, but they can have so many different properties and are functionalized to do different things. Some silicones are volatile and are used for slip and glide of a formulation. Others are functionalized to stick to the hair and aid in color or thermal protection, but can be washed off. Other silicones can provide temporary substantivity to prevent frizz – really a whole gamut of functionalities are possible through silicone chemistry!

Now, can they cause hair loss? Hair loss can be caused by a variety of things, which we’ve covered extensively in previous episodes, including Episode 193. I think the myth that silicones cause hair loss is perpetuated by the fact that some silicones are substantive – meaning, they’re designed to build up and provide some benefit. Amodimethicone is one of them – it’s a wonderful color protectant! However, that does not mean silicones cause hair loss. If we have learned anything from the Devacurl discussion, it’s that it is important to occasionally use a clarifying shampoo and cleanse the hair and scalp. 

Bottom line – silicones to not suffocate the hair and cause hair loss. Silicones are a wide class of molecules that can provide great benefits!

Question 2

Laurie asks – I have Hyperthyroidism.  I play the guitar so my finger nails on the left hand are short and I’m trying, still, to grow the nails on my right hand (I play Classical).  Nails are very important for this type of guitar playing. The nail on the thumb on my left has cracked deep – bear in mind it’s already short, so I put clear nail polish on it: Sally Hanson Ultimate Shield.  I read that a nail polish with protein strengthens the nail. NONE OF THEM show the ingredients. Do I use OPI Nail Envy like my hair dresser recommends – or something else?

Let’s talk about nail strengtheners. A nail strengthener polish is one that can help recondition your nails. Nail strengthener ingredients that actually have an impact include ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, nitrocellulose, and tosylamide formaldehyde resin. Things like protein are just claims ingredients that don’t actually do the work. You can try a product like the Sally Hanson MEGA STRENGTH HARDENER. It’s got the ingredients that actually put a strengthening coating on the nail. No proteins but the proteins really don’t do much. In truth, nail polish technology hasn’t changed much in a lot of years so any product that says it’s going to strengthen nails (as long as it uses nitrocellulose & the other ingredients I mentioned) it should help keep your nails strong. 

Question 3

Sheila asks, “You guys are absolutely fantastic. Your knowledge on all things beauty is astounding. I always learn something from the two of you. But, I was wondering what your thoughts are on Goat’s Milk and its use in soaps, body washes, shampoo and conditioners? 

Goats milk is rich lipids, mostly triglycerides, and a small portion of phospholipids and sterols. The fatty acids in the milk are mostly medium chain fatty acids, which are C8-C14 in length. People say that goats milk moisturizes and nourishes the skin – I would probably agree. Goats milk also may contain proteins that have good film-forming properties, leading to hydration on skin. I’ve even seen where some claim the lactose in goat’s milk is responsible for hydration. Maybe! A few brands using goats milk tout it is high in lactic acid, which is an alpha hydroxy acid that aids in exfoliation of skin. If you listen to Episode 181, it’s unlikely that Goat’s Milk will provide any exfoliation benefit as it will not contain a lot of free lactic acid.

Kate Sommerville is one large skincare brand that features goats milk as an active ingredient, but for the most part  it’s mostly used in homemade or hand-crafted cosmetics. As a formulator working at a large company, there is not only a push to use ingredients free of animal by-products, but using goats milk can be difficult to work with. It is typically supplied as a powder and has to be solubilized in a formula. It is typically off-color, which also is a challenge. Additionally, because of the composition, can add complexity to preservation. Finally, while there are some alluring benefits to using goats milk, there are many more ingredients that provide more benefit to goats milk at a lower use level or don’t create formulation challenges. Personally, I also have a hard time using an ingredient from a food chain. 

Question 4

Katherine says – Hi. I was wondering if there’s a more affordable alternative to this Skinceuticals Cream. Thank you. Skinceuticals Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2

Let’s look at what’s in the formula. They do have this long ingredient list, 37 ingredients by my count. But, if you get rid of all the “fluff” ingredients & the non-functional things like preservatives & adjustment ingredients, there are just a few ingredients that make the product work. These include Dimethicone (that’s the occlusive agent), Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (an emollient), and Glycerin (the humectant). Oh and to live up to the 2:4:2 claim they have 2% ceramide 3, 4% cholesterol, and 2% sunflower seed oil. Of course, with the first three ingredients there doesn’t seem to be much reason to have the next three. In my view these are just claims ingredients that aren’t actually having much effect, especially when you have those other ingredients in there. 

That’s the thing about when they test ingredients like ceramides, and things. They don’t test them against ingredients like dimethicone or petrolatum. They test them against poor placebos so they can show a significant impact. In my view, topical ceramides have not been proven to be worth spending money on. 

So, what are some options?  If you share my opinion that the only thing having a significant impact on the performance of this product is the first three ingredients, Dimethicone, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene and Glycerin, then I’d say look for products with those ingredients. Olay regenerist. It’s got Glycerin & Dimethicone and even has a peptide, niacinamide, and hyaluronic acid. Those are nice for label copy but it is really the first couple ingredients that are going to have the effect.    

Question 5 – Audio Question

Bakuchiol – an alternative to retinol. Retinol is not safe during pregnancy and breast feeding? Is bakuchiol safe during pregnancy and breast feeding?

The question of whether retinol is safe during pregnancy is not so cut and dry as it’s either safe or not. All the advice you’ll see online is that you shouldn’t use them since there is concern that retinoids can have teratogenic effects (which means they can affect the development of a fetus). Of course, there is not any evidence that topical application is a problem but it’s a case of better safe than sorry though. Since there are other options, doctors just recommend you avoid using them while pregnant. Seems a reasonable precaution. 

Anyway, that brings us to the question of bakuchiol. There’s an article published in Allure that says that “Unlike retinols, bakuchiol is completely safe to use while pregnant or breastfeeding” And you’ll see similar things said on parenting and mommy blogs. But the reality is that this ingredient hasn’t been tested so those claims are overly optimistic if you ask me. There is actually good reason to avoid bakuchiol since it hasn’t been safety tested for use during pregnancy. It may be fine but until safety testing is done, I wouldn’t recommend it. 

Also, bakuchiol is a natural plant extract which means you have no idea about the purity of the ingredient that a company is using. There are no good analytical tests to demonstrate that a company is even using bakuchiol extract. They could be just purchasing brown water spiked with retinol. Companies wouldn’t really know. As you can tell, I’m super skeptical of natural extracts. 

The other thing is that the benefits of bakuchiol are way over hyped. The available evidence just does not support their use as a good alternative to retinoids. There are a couple of small studies that show some equivalence but these haven’t been replicated and there is just so much more evidence of retinoids working. I remain skeptical.

So, if you’re pregnant, stick with proven safe ingredients like benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid. Bakuchiol may be perfectly safe but it’s better to avoid it just to be cautious.  I also wouldn’t take product safety advice from mommy blogs and the Internet. Or even a science podcast for that matter. Talk to your doctor about this and then avoid using it. 

Follow the Brains

Thanks for listening. Hey if you get a chance can you go over to iTunes and leave us a review. That will help other people find the show and ensure we have a full docket of beauty questions to answer.  

ASK A QUESTION – If you want to ask a question click this link or record one on your phone and send it to thebeautybrains@gmail.com

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Thanks again for listening and remember Be Brainy about your Beauty

{ 1 comment }

It’s a solo Beauty Brains podcast.

Chemical Free Rant
Since I’m going solo, there are a few topics I’d like to rant about. Let’s start with chemical free.

Can someone tell me something, what do people mean when they claim “chemical free”?

I look at the world from the standpoint of a scientist but you don’t have to be a scientist to know that everything is a chemical right?  I mean, that was the kind of thing we learned in grade school. Right? I know a lot of people don’t like science in school but everyone knows about atoms and molecules and chemicals right? Am I mistaken here?  

So, I have to think that when people claim “chemical free” they must not actually mean chemical free in the sense that I take it. I mean, everything is a chemical except stuff like gravity and UV rays and that kind of thing. But anything you might touch or hold or put on your body as a cosmetic is just made of chemicals. So what do people mean. What do marketers who say “chemical free” sunscreens mean? Zinc oxide is a chemical. 

I guess they probably mean natural? Or safe? Or…I don’t know. Maybe you can help me. I put up a post on our Instagram about this (we’re thebeautybrains2018). Maybe you could weigh in. When you say or some marketer says or someone says “chemical free”, what does that mean?  I’m really curious to see what people have to say. 

Active Ingredients

On my Chemists Corner website which is frequented by cosmetic formulators, someone posted that they thought most ingredients (active) are overrated.  They further went on to say over 99% of active skincare ingredients are overrated marketing hype. They simply do not have any visible effect on the skin. The industry is built on lies.

It was a bit harsh to tell you the truth. I think this is a bit of a cynical take on the cosmetic industry. I’m not saying it’s actually wrong, but maybe too cynical.

First, skin care products work. We can make great cleansers, excellent moisturizers. Hair removal depilatories and exfoliation products all work. And of course, color cosmetics are effective at making people feel better about how they look. Cosmetics work! And cosmetic/drugs work too. Sunscreens, antiperspirants, skin lighteners, and anti acne products work.

But there are 2 significant problems with the cosmetic industry that lead to what seems like lies.  Incidentally, I don’t think the cosmetic industry really lies. It’s actually illegal to outright lie, except in political ads. Then you can say what you want I guess.  Anyway, the two problems in the cosmetic industry are…

One, there haven’t been any consumer perceivable technological improvements in the last 20 to 30 years. The stuff you use now, is really pretty much the same as the stuff you used decades ago. Shampoos aren’t different. Skin lotions aren’t different. If anything, they don’t work as good. That’s mostly because of regulations but it’s also because we’re using all the same chemicals that we’ve used before. 

The other problem is that There is no consumer perceivable, proprietary technology that makes one company’s products better than another’s. That is to say, every company can make products that work just as well as every other company. L’Oreal, P&G, Unilever, can make products that work the same as every other product on the market. Now, there might be some exceptions where companies have patents but these aren’t really significant performance differences if you ask me. At least, nothing that consumers notice. 

Of course, in the cosmetic industry consumers always want something new. The products they have might actually work but you get bored with them. Consumers want to look better and switching to a new product gives them hope that this time, they might look better.

And it requires stories to give people that hope. Stories in the form of “active ingredients.” Marketers need a hero ingredient. They don’t want to talk about glycerin, or petrolatum or mineral oil (the old ingredients that actually work). No, they’d much rather make stories about Hyaluronic acid, or Bakuchiol or Argan oil. I don’t know, what’s the hot ingredient now…CBD.  Even though you can demonstrate that these ingredients probably don’t work as well as the old technology. But new stories sell new products.

So, yeah there is a lot of misleading and exaggeration going on in the cosmetic industry. It’s understandable and on some level, it’s what consumers want.

Question 1  – Audio

Stephanie – Eye lash lift. Is eyelash lift safe?  Can this procedure affect the growth of your eyelash? 

Oh boy. Let’s talk about eye lash lifts. To tell you the truth, I had not heard of this before your question. I’m sure Valerie probably had but you might be surprised to learn that I don’t give much thought to my eyelashes. I mean, I have eyelashes and I guess they work. They annoy me when I’ll occasionally get one in my eye. But mostly I don’t think about them. 

But based on being in the beauty industry and the questions which spark interest on the Beauty Brains, lot’s of people give great thought to their eyelashes.  

Whenever I am introduced to a new topic I like to go to Google Trends to see what kind of interest there is in the topic. And according to that tool, interest in eye lash lifts really took off somewhere around 2017. And that only seems to be growing. Yikes!

Anyway, so what are eye lash lifts?  From what I could tell, an eye lash lift is essentially a perm for you eyelashes. It’s a way to permanently (in temporary sort of way) curl your eyelashes. After you get this done, you don’t have to use those eyelash curlers any more. Which, quite frankly, do look like a pain. I see my wife using them every so often. 

You see, eye lash curlers rely on moisture and hydrogen bonding to give the eyelash some shape. It’s more or less effective but certainly not long lasting. Maybe one evening if you’re lucky.  Eye lash lifts use a chemical that breaks down some bonds in your hair, and then reforms them so the eye lashes maintain a curled state. This is exactly how a perm works. In fact, eye lash lifts use the same chemistry. Which makes sense because eyelashes are made up of the same stuff that the hair on you head is made up of. Keratin protein.

The active ingredient Thioglycolic acid breaks down the Sulfur-Sulfur bonds in your hair. Then, you reshape the hair. Next you reform some of those Sulfur Sulfur bonds and the hair more or less will keep the new shape. Permanently. Well, at least until it grows out. Like a perm, new growth will revert to your natural state. There’s some other ingredients in there 

Now, you had two questions.  First, is it safe?

God no! This seems like a terrible idea to me. Thioglycolic acid is not something you want in or around your eyes. It can cause severe burns and chemical injuries on your skin, your eyes, your respiratory tract. It is corrosive and can even induce a systemic toxicity. This isn’t a safe ingredient. Now, when put on your head for doing perms, there’s just less risk of it getting in your eyes but getting a chemical burn on your scalp is still a risk when you get a perm. Ideally, your stylist is well practiced and none of it gets on your skin but it’s still a risk.

However, around the eyes, that’s just not a good idea! You could go blind! Or burn your cornea or some other not insignificant eye injury. This does not seem safe.  But maybe I’m just being overly cautious. You have to say to yourself, well salons all over the country are offering this service. How bad could it really be? I don’t know. I don’t have the stats to tell you how many people have eye injuries as a result of this. I just know what could happen. And then you have to decide, is risking your eyesight really worth this treatment?  I would say no, but you know, I don’t think much about my eyelashes anyway. Some people think the risk is worth it.

Ok, your other question was can the procedure affect the growth of future eyelashes?

Well, the ingredient is cytotoxic which means that it can kill cells. If the liquid gets into your hair follicle, travels down and gets in the bulb where cells are growing. It will kill those. And your hair in that follicle will stop growing. So, yeah it could affect that.  Now, whether it will, I’m not sure. If it is being applied correctly there’s no reason it should get that far down into the hair follicle. But geez, it certainly could. So, yeah it can affect the future growth of eyelashes. Also, it will make your current eyelash hairs weaker. That’s because you break down bonds and when you reform them, that’s not a perfect system.

I will note that the FDA does not specifically say tho avoid doing eye lash lifts.  Perhaps they haven’t heard about it or haven’t come out with a position on it. They are slow like that. They do say don’t use hair colorants on your eye lashes or brows. It’s different chemistry but both are reactive and dangerous. 

So, the bottom line is that this treatment does work. It will give you permanently (mostly) curled eyelashes. But I don’t think it’s safe. 

Link to dangers of thioglycolic acid 

Follow the Brains

Thanks for listening. Hey if you get a chance can you go over to iTunes and leave us a review. That will help other people find the show and ensure we have a full docket of beauty questions to answer.  

ASK A QUESTION – If you want to ask a question click this link or record one on your phone and send it to thebeautybrains@gmail.com

Social media accounts
on Instagram we’re at thebeautybrains2018
on Twitter, we’re thebeautybrains
And we have a Facebook page.

Support the Beauty Brains!
The Beauty Brains are now on Patreon! Help support us to continue to make episodes.

Thanks again for listening and remember Be Brainy about your Beauty

{ 2 comments }

Beauty questions answered today include

  1. Is there a bar shampoo or bar conditioner that works as well as the ones out of a bottle?
  2. Why can’t everyone use retinol?
  3. Is sugaring dangerous? And does it work as well as waxing? 
  4. Do peptides have an effect beyond moisturizing & is there a “best one” to pick?

Beauty Science News

Industry must take a wholistic approach to talking about ingredient safety

UV protection may not be enough for skin protection 

Beauty Questions

Question 1  – Audio

Jennifer asks – Is it wishful thinking to hope that a bar shampoo or bar conditioner will work as well as a product that comes in a bottle?  Do you know of any brands you might recommend?

We actually talked about the chemistry of solid bar shampoos and conditioners back on episode 178. I’d encourage you to go take a listen to get a more in-depth discussion. 

Basically, these formulas use many of the same ingredients as standard formulas but with a lot less water.  Lush uses Sodium Lauryl Sulfate as their main solid detergent. They also have some formulas which include Sodium Laureth Sulfate and Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate. Another popular ingredient in these bar shampoos is Sodium cocoyl isethionate. These are all standard shampoo detergents. I saw another shampoo bar based on Sodium Cocoate which is more of a soap that’s not going to work well on hair. If you’re going to get any benefit from these plastic free formulas, stick with the SLS, SLES or the Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate versions. They will work the most like regular shampoos. 

For a solid conditioner, they substitute a solid like Coco butter or Shea butter for the water but then include conditioner ingredients like Behentrimonium Chloride. They also include some detergent surfactants so you can was the stuff out of your hair.  These are tricky formulas to make and they generally don’t include the best ingredients you can use in conditioners.

While you might be able to find a bar shampoo that works find enough, I double you’ll be able to find a bar conditioner that works well enough. That’s because they can’t include stuff like silicones. 

In truth, I think the reason these don’t work as well is mainly because you don’t get enough delivery from the solid form. If you think about the amount of product you get from a squeeze of bottle, you get much less than rubbing a solid formula together in your hand or onto your hair. I don’t have exact measurements but I would guess you’re getting about 10 times less ingredients when using a soap bar versus a squeeze bottle. 

Question 2 Amy says Hi Beauty Brains – Love your Podcast & watching my friends get angry as I debunk their crazy claims. I worked in cosmetics for years and it’s crazy the scripts we’d be given to push products. Thank goodness for Science based reliable info like yours. Question; why can’t all skin types acclimate to Retinoids/ Retina-A. I’ve tried everything ( easing into it) and get nothing but irritation. I’m 55 & would love to be using it( something that’s proven to work & I just have no luck). Thanks for “keeping it real!” 

Thanks for the kind words.  Sorry if we’re causing any problems with your friends. But sometimes reality is less appealing than the marketing stories.  Ok, on to your question.

First, a little about retinoids.  Retinoic acid (also known as Retin-A, tretinoin and sometimes by brand names like Accutane) is a prescription drug used to treat acne. While it is primarily known for its anti-acne properties, dermatologists have also prescribed it for evening out complexion and reducing fine lines and wrinkles. This makes it one of the most valuable anti-aging ingredients. However, retinoic acid is not available in any cosmetic because it can only be purchased with a prescription from your doctor.

On the other hand, Retinol is NOT a prescription drug. It is the alcohol form of retinoic acid. That means it’s chemically related, and does have some similar skin refining properties, however it is not nearly as effective as the acid. Neither are the other derivatives of retinoic acid or retinoids like Retinaldehyde or Retinyl palmitate.

Another problem with retinol is that it is not very stable and is easily oxidized. That means that exposure to oxygen, light, or even other ingredients in the same formula can render this ingredient even less effective. Which will also probably be less irritating so that might be a plus. 

But as far as irritation goes, first, I don’t really have an answer to why some skin types can tolerate retinoids and others can’t. It could be a combination of a bunch of things like genetics, environment, your personal pain tolerance level. There really isn’t one simple answer.  But as far as what you might be able to try. The less effective retinoids are also less irritating. Use a lower level at the start. You might consider mixing your retinol lotion with a non-retinol containing lotion to dilute the exposure. Also, using it on dry skin might help reduce the problems.

Ultimately, for some people they just can’t use some ingredients. It’s the same with food allergies. Unfortunately, we don’t have many cures to some of these problems. 

On the plus side, daily moisturizing, avoid smoking, and stay out of the sun will provide a lot of anti-aging benefits you can get without retinoids.

Question 3 – Elizabeth writes – I listened to episode 192 of the podcast and was surprised to hear you group home sugaring recipes in with the dangerous kitchen chemistry segment. I did that one myself back when I made  less money and it seemed to work just as well as waxing kits from the store. Is there a danger here I’m not catching? These days I make more and get my legs waxed at a salon, and the last salon I went to offered sugaring as well as waxing, though they certainly weren’t using the home recipe kind. They claimed that the sugar sticks less to the skin than wax, but just as strongly to the hair, so it’s less painful. I couldn’t tell any difference myself, do you think that claim is true?

I’m sorry if it sounded like we were saying that sugaring was unsafe. I think we were referring to some of the other home treatments.  Sugaring to remove hair has been done for a long time so it’s not like a new technology. Some people claim that it can lead to a more permanent hair removal but that’s not true. Both waxing and sugaring are temporary measures. The reason is that they only pull out the hair but do not remove the hair-creating cells in the follicle.   

The sugaring paste you get at a salon is made from sugar and an acid like citric acid (lemon juice). In sugaring, the sugar actually forms crystals that trap the hair. Essentially, it’s like you are putting caramel on your skin then letting it harden, then ripping it off.  Wax is made up beeswax plus rosin or another sticky polymer. The sticky polymer attaches to the hair and comes out when you pull off the product. But they basically work in the same way. And they basically can both hurt. Maybe one hurts less than the other but pulling out hair is probably going to hurt either way. 

As to the question of whether sugar sticks more to hair and less to skin, there is no scientific basis to this claim. Wax and sugar will both stick to the skin and to the hair. If one formula sticks more to the skin, it will also stick more to the hair. From an adhesive standpoint, there isn’t some difference in mechanism. Sugar doesn’t know whether it is sticking to skin or hair.   

Sugaring and waxing can both work to remove hair temporarily. Whether one works better for you or not really is a personal preference. I think everyone will be different. 

Question 4 – Kayla asks – There is some concern that peptides are too large to have any other benefits other than being a humectant, what do you think of this? Is there any “superior” peptide? Thank you for you time.

We actually covered peptides way back in episode 55 and I would encourage you to go listen to that show. As far as whether they work…

There was a review article published in the journal Cosmetics back in 2017. They reviewed the work that had been done on 28 different peptides which have been suggested for use as a topical skin treatment. There was also a review article published in 2017 in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science that looked at 19 peptides. All this is to say that there are a lot of peptides. 

Whether there is a superior peptide or not is still up for debate. 

I’ll preface this talk by saying that if peptides really had the effect that the research claims, these would be illegal drugs. Peptides are said to stimulate collagen growth (cosmetics can’t do this), stimulate keratinocyte growth (cosmetics aren’t allowed to do this), stop cell apoptosis, and a number of other processes affecting the body’s biochemistry. It is not legal for cosmetics to interfere with the body’s biochemistry.

This is one of the reasons that the claims about peptides remain vague and general. If they came out and claimed what they want to claim (the products stop the formation of wrinkles) then the products would be illegal.  But let’s ignore that for the moment. 

What has been proven?

As I said there are a number of studies looking at all kinds of different peptides. Many of the published studies are on cell cultures which isn’t terribly helpful. This type of work is useful to give scientists an idea about what compounds to evaluate, but it doesn’t tell you if it would work in a person. 

A number of studies were done with a small number of subjects or they used peptides along with some other ingredient like niacinamide or retinoids. I don’t know why they did that. Probably because they didn’t get good enough results using the peptide alone.

But there were some studies that were placebo controlled, double blind with a good number of subjects. The peptides that appeared to do the best or at least had the most rigorous science behind it were.

The first is a signal & carrier peptide called Copper Peptide GHK-Cu. The INCI name you would find on the cosmetic container is Copper tripeptide-1. In a couple of double blind, placebo controlled studies, it was found to reduce wrinkles, increase skin density and thickness.  They showed results starting in week 4.

Another one that showed promise was Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 or Pal-KTTKS – This one is a signal peptide that is thought to stimulate collagen and elastin production.  In a couple double blinded, placebo controlled studies, they found significant reduction in fine lines and wrinkles and a reduced bumpy texture. 

Now, I remain skeptical about recommending these ingredients for two reasons.  First, there aren’t reproduced studies. One study doesn’t mean much to me & they are often funded or even published by manufacturers who certainly aren’t unbiased.  But second, I didn’t see what the control placebo formula was. There is a trick that researchers can do and this happens with raw materials all the time. If you want to prove that your ingredient has some kind of property the first strategy is to compare it to no treatment. If the untreated side looks worse than the treated side, viola, you’ll convince some people your technology works.

But if you don’t want it to be easily dismissed, it’s better to compare yourself to a placebo. If the ingredient shows an effect then, at least you can say the ingredient is doing something. The trick here is that you want to use an ineffective placebo. So, if you wanted to show wrinkle reduction you might make a cream with a low level of moisturizing ingredients versus the same cream with your peptide. If the ingredient has wrinkle reducing abilities it would be easier to see.

The only problem with that is that from a consumer standpoint you don’t want to know whether an ingredient has an effect. You want to know whether an ingredient is the best thing to use. What they should compare themselves to is a good moisturizer that has proven anti-aging effects. Consumers don’t necessarily care about the ingredient per se, they want to know what overall treatment is the best. If these peptides don’t work better than a good moisturizer like..I don’t know…Neutragena or something like that, then they aren’t worth paying the extra money for are they? 

Anyway, if you’re sold on peptides in skin care then the ones with the best science behind them include Copper tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4.  Look for those names on the ingredient lists. 

Peptide article

Follow the Brains

Thanks for listening. Hey if you get a chance can you go over to iTunes and leave us a review. That will help other people find the show and ensure we have a full docket of beauty questions to answer.  

ASK A QUESTION – If you want to ask a question click this link or record one on your phone and send it to thebeautybrains@gmail.com

Social media accounts
on Instagram we’re at thebeautybrains2018
on Twitter, we’re thebeautybrains
And we have a Facebook page.

Support the Beauty Brains!
The Beauty Brains are now on Patreon! Help support us to continue to make episodes.

Thanks again for listening and remember Be Brainy about your Beauty

{ 0 comments }

On today’s program we are going to talk about a couple of beauty industry news stories and answer your questions about…

  1. Is an expensive skin serum worth the money even it if is from a pharmaceutical company?
  2. Which is more damaging, hot water or hot styling devices?
  3. Do nutrition pads work to deliver actives?
  4. Can a shampoo or conditioner make your hair grow faster?

Beauty Science News

New York is putting limits on 1,4 Dioxane
What does this mean for shampoos and body washes?

Gweneth Paltro is at it again – Vagina candles

Beauty Questions

Question 1 – Paula asks – Skin Medica – TNS essential serum and recovery complex. Do these products do what they claim? It can strengthen sagging skin through anti-aging peptides + growth factorIs the product worth the money? Do the ingredients do what they claim?

Wow!  $281 for a one ounce product!  That’s amazing. I wonder how many they actually sell. I’m just blown away.  

Skin Medica essential Serum

Human Fibroblast Conditioned Media, Water/Aqua/Eau, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Unsaponifiables, Alpha-Arbutin, Isoceteth-20, Arachidyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Ethoxydiglycol, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Dimethicone, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Ergothioneine, Hydrolyzed Sericin, Phospholipids, Ubiquinone, Rubus Fruticosus (Blackberry) Leaf Extract, Saccharomyces Ferment Lysate Filtrate, Aminobutyric Acid, Phytosterols, Tocopherol, Tocotrienols, Squalene, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax (Oryza Sativa Cera), Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol, Steareth-10, Steareth-20, Butylene Glycol, Maltodextrin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Aminomethyl Propanol, Disodium EDTA, Caprylyl Glycol, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Parfum/Fragrance, Hydroxycitronellal, Linalool, Coumarin, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Geraniol, Isoeugenol

Question 2  

Does hot water damage hair more than hot styling devices?

Both are damaging but from a heat standpoint, the styling device are worse. But really, these are two different types of damage on the hair that can’t compare.

Question 3  

Ingredients by Louise shared a post with us via Instagram about a brand called Le-Vel. They are selling “wearable nutrition” as part of their Thrive product portfolio. The patches, featuring Derma Fusion Technology, promises that technology meets premium nutrition. The patches are placed on the arm to deliver – over an extended period of time – ForsLean, Green Coffee Bean Extract, Garcinia Cambogia, CoQ10, White Willow Bark, Cosmoperine, Limonene, Aloe Vera and L-Arginine. 

It’s unlikely you’ll get any noticeable benefit out of using this product.

Classic MLM marketing tactic! 

Question 4   

One Drink Bona asks, I’m a hairdresser that loves listening to ya’ll. I have clients that always want to grow more hair or make their hair grow faster. Some have always had finer hair and some have gone through chemo. Is there a shampoo and conditioner or topical solution that does actually do this? Is there one that is the best? Thank you so much!

If your hair is slow growing or not growing due to a deficiency, taking a vitamin that addresses that deficiency may help, but if you’re not deficient, you’ll just urinate them out. 

Follow the Brains

Thanks for listening. Hey if you get a chance can you go over to iTunes and leave us a review. That will help other people find the show and ensure we have a full docket of beauty questions to answer.  

ASK A QUESTION – If you want to ask a question click this link or record one on your phone and send it to thebeautybrains@gmail.com

Social media accounts
on Instagram we’re at thebeautybrains2018
on Twitter, we’re thebeautybrains
And we have a Facebook page.

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The Beauty Brains are now on Patreon! Help support us to continue to make episodes.

Thanks again for listening and remember Be Brainy about your Beauty

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Beauty Science News stories

On today’s program we are going to talk about a couple of beauty industry news stories and answer your questions about…

  1. Aluminum hydroxide in topical products
  2. Whether lip scrubs are worthwhile
  3. The environmental impact of cosmetics
  4. And what the differences are between bentonite and charcoal in a facial mask

Beauty Science News

Talc is not linked to cancer – I wonder if that will affect the court cases

Regenerative beauty: Aussie skin care brand sees luxury potential in horse placenta

There is a challenge with using ingredients that are derived from animal protein, fat, tallow, placenta, etc, and that is transmissible spongiform encephalopathy, also known as TSE when speaking about animals in general, or BSE when speaking about cattle. 

Recall Alert

Say Yes To Recalls their Yes to Grapefruit VITAMIN C GLOW-BOOSTING UNICORN PEEL-OFF MASK

Pictures of complaints

Ingredient list: Water (Aqua), Ethyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Algin, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Seed Extract, Mica, Ascorbic Acid*, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Tin Oxide (CI 77861), Ethylhexylglycerin, Chlorphenesin, Silica, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance (Parfum), Benzyl Benzoate, Limonene. *Vitamin C

Beauty Questions

Question 1 – Jodi from LA – What is aluminum hydroxide and is it bad if it is in a diaper rash cream?

Aluminum hydroxide is an approved active ingredient to treat diaper rash. It has been approved as safe and effective at a level of up to 5%. This means that the product has gone through medical trials and been proven to be safe & effective. It has an absorbant effect which makes it work. It also has no known skin toxicity so there isn’t anything to worry about.

However, people hear the word “aluminum” and they automatically get scared. There is no reason to be scared but unfortunately, fear-marketers have made people afraid of anything with aluminum, especially antiperspirants and products that are applied to the skin of babies. But these ingredients have been tested and they are safe. I don’t know how to convince people that think otherwise though. 

Question 2  – Ben A La Mode (Instagram) – I feel that lip scrubs and masks are all the rage these days, and I am not sure if they have long term benefits. I know that a scrub may make lips feel soft in the moment, but will they make my lips feel and look younger over time? Which ingredients are good for these scrubs and moisturizers to have?

Question 3  Wahde was wondering if we could help with a paper he wanted to write on the impact of cosmetic use and the environment. He says, can you please help by providing info for contributing factors that identify cosmetics as an environmental health problem?   And consequences that would arise if the problem is left unsolved or unsolved. Anything will help! Thank you so much!

There are a few ways in which cosmetics impact the environment. They include…

  1. Chemicals getting into our waterways
  2. Toxic chemicals
  3. Microplastics 
  4. Air pollution
  5. Plastic going into landfills

What can consumers do? I don’t really know. I saw the advice that people should make their own cosmetics but this isn’t such a great idea. If you are going to use stuff in your kitchen to make cosmetics they aren’t going to work as well as a standard product. Now, you can buy cosmetic ingredients from home crafter suppliers but if you add up the environmental impact of making it yourself, that’s also not going to be better for the environment. I guess the best that you might be able to do is to buy fewer products and buy from companies that have transparent sustainability programs. And just remember, just because a company says they are environmentally friendly doesn’t automatically mean they are. Cosmetic companies are still in the business to get you to buy more and more product. Even the environmentally friendly ones.

Question 4   – Ravi asks, What are the differences between the mechanism of charcoal and bentonite when they work on your face in cosmetic products?

I couldn’t find any literature about which had more absorbing capacity, but in general, you would use a higher percentage of bentonite in a formulation so I would imagine that you have more absorption capacity. Additionally, I couldn’t find any literature about topical application of charcoal and the adsorption benefits, just the ingestion. However, suppliers of bentonite have done studies about sebum reduction and removal of iron from the skin, while adding beneficial trace minerals like magnesium and silicon.

Follow the Brains

Thanks for listening. Hey if you get a chance can you go over to iTunes and leave us a review. That will help other people find the show and ensure we have a full docket of beauty questions to answer.  

ASK A QUESTION – If you want to ask a question click this link or record one on your phone and send it to thebeautybrains@gmail.com

Social media accounts
on Instagram we’re at thebeautybrains2018
on Twitter, we’re thebeautybrains
And we have a Facebook page.

Support the Beauty Brains!
The Beauty Brains are now on Patreon! Help support us to continue to make episodes.

Thanks again for listening and remember Be Brainy about your Beauty

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It’s a special episode with Perry and Sarah Bellum. On today’s episode we’re going to be answering your beauty questions about 

  1. Do you need to reapply sunscreen if I’m indoor all day?
  2. Why is ferulic acid used with vitamin C?
  3. Are vampire facial good for your skin?
  4. Why isn’t there more recycling?
  5. Does Revitalash really work?
  6. Are cosmetician brands really better?
  7. What other podcasts do you listen to?
  8. What are some trends you see in new technology for beauty products?

Beauty News

How accurate are those beauty product DNA tests

This article was title How accurate are those beauty product DNA tests and it was posted on the Huffpost. They were pondering whether beauty products formulated with your DNA profile in mind were effective. They gave examples of the company Strands Hair Care which gets your DNA profile from a sample of your hair to formulate hair products for you and ORIG3N which offers beauty product advice based on beauty DNA tests.

They did the standard two sides thing where the expert in favor of the technique was, of course, selling products and DNA consultations. She used a lot of “sciencesplaining” and concluded that it definitely worked. The article also offered a reference to a 2018 paper published in the Journal  Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology and suggested that research supported the use of individual DNA testing for cosmetic application. I read the article and that was not the conclusion. The authors merely said it might be possible.

At present, I don’t think it is possible. There are a lot of things going against DNA testing for your skin or hair but the main one is that we formulators have no idea what to do with the information. Formulating is not a high-precision activity. We find ingredients that generally work and make educated guesses to how much should be included in a formula. Even if a formulator knew everything about your DNA sequence we don’t know what specific genes matter for your skin or hair, how they interact to produce collagen, elastin, or to grow hair. And it says nothing about the external environmental effects on your skin and hair. Identical twins might not respond the same to identical treatments. For example, if one twin got their hair bleached and the other didn’t, their genetics would not tell you what type of hair products were best for them.

No doubt these types of products will continue to gain in popularity. Or at least more companies are going to be launching them.  But it’s still just a marketing gimmick and you aren’t going to get any significant benefit by having a product designed specifically for your skin or hair DNA.

Question 1 (Audio question)

If sunscreen isn’t exposed to the sun can it last all day? Do I need a product to reapply sunscreen if I’m inside all day?
The idea of reapplying sunscreen is not primarily because the sunscreen breaks down. In fact, sunscreens mostly do not break down upon exposure to sunlight. According to Dr. Steven Q. Wang, the director of dermatology at Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center the advice to reapply sunscreens every two hours was mostly because people don’t put enough on initially. This was a way to get people to apply closer to the right amount. I also think that when you’re at the beach and you’re sweating and going in the water, the sunscreen film can get broken so it makes sense to reapply.  

It is probably not necessary to reapply if you are just going to be indoors however. Sunscreen is pretty stable when not exposed to UV light and even then the sunscreens are stable. Zinc oxide certainly isn’t going to stop working.  So, I don’t think you really need to worry about reapplying sunscreen if you are just going to be indoors. I highly doubt you will notice any difference especially if you are in a standard office building and don’t have any exposure to UV light.

Question 2
Ayu asks – What is the science behind the claim that Vitamin E and Ferulic Acid stabilize Vitamin C (L-ascorbic Acid)? And is there ever a shelf-stable formulation of L-ascorbic Acid?

There was a paper published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology in 2005 titled “Ferulic Acid Stabilizes a Solution of Vitamins C and E and Doubles its Photoprotection of Skin.” It claimed that a 15% solution of Vitamin C and a 1% solution of Vitamin E were stabilized and the photoprotection of skin was improved by adding 0.5% Ferulic acid. They showed some interesting results when the product was applied to the skin of weanling white Yorkshire pigs. Animals that got the treatment the combination of three antioxidants experienced less sun burn than animals that didn’t. So, there is some synergistic effect with ferulic acid and Vitamin C+E. 

Unfortunately, this doesn’t mean that products on the market with these three ingredients in them are more shelf stable. It wasn’t clear but the researchers likely made the solutions right away and applied them to the test subjects. Any product that you can buy in the store has been sitting for a number of weeks or maybe even months. By the time you get it, the Vitamin C no doubt will have broken down and the fact that Ferulic acid is in there probably won’t have much impact. There are companies that claim they have shelf stable l-ascorbic acid formulations but I’m skeptical. Especially if the product has water in it and is not in an opaque container. Both water and UV exposure can break down ascorbic acid. In fact, I read in one paper in the November 2019 issue of Food chemistry that showed a significant amount of vitamin C broke down within 1 hour of making the aqueous solution. 

Question 3

Vampire facials and using your blood in creams… Is this really a good thing? No, it’s a terrible idea. It’s unregulated and potentially dangerous.

Question 4

Recycling – from your episode with Sarah a while back I got the impression that recycling isn’t that common in the States. Here in the UK we recycle everything, it’s ingrained into us to recycle as much as possible. And when you both mentioned paper straws on holiday this has been the case for a while in the UK, it’s been widely accepted. I just wondered if the cultures are very different.  

I think the difference is just based on the cultural norms of where you are. Recycling is done more in some places, less in others. In Chicago, we don’t really have a good recycling program. Unfortunately, even the stuff that is recycled is often not getting recycled. It used to be that China would take garbage and sort it for recycling. But these days, that doesn’t happen much. So all those shampoo bottles and skin lotion containers mostly just end up in landfills (at least in the US). 

Question 5

Products like revitalash- eyelash growth serums, how do they work, what is the magic ingredient? Is this a good long term solution? The story behind how this brand came about is incredibly touching but could it really be recommended to those not in surgery? 

We covered eyelash growth products way back in episode 149. The quick answer is the only one that is approved (and proven) to work is the product from Allergan called Latise. 

Question 6

What is your opinion on cosmetician brands as opposed to the big beauty brands? For example DCL, skinceuticals, zelens Vs Estée Lauder, clarins, elemis etc. – With big company brands you will find products that will work for most people. Cosmetician brands are more niche targeted so there might be some consumers who like them more but they might not appeal to a typical consumer. I always say when in doubt, stick with the big beauty brands. 

Question 7

Which other beauty or scientific podcasts do you listen to?

Fat Mascara
The Eco Well
The Skeptics Guide to the Universe
The Reality Check
Science for the People
Science Magazine podcast
Mintel Little Conversations

Question 8

What are the latest advancements in cosmetic technology? I know 2019 was a trend year of retinol and biomes, what else are scientists working on? What are the big cosmetic brand scientists working on?
Sustainability
New anti-aging actives
Stabilizing ingredients
New preservatives

Follow the Brains

Thanks for listening. Hey if you get a chance can you go over to iTunes and leave us a review. That will help other people find the show and ensure we have a full docket of beauty questions to answer.  

ASK A QUESTION – If you want to ask a question click this link or record one on your phone and send it to thebeautybrains@gmail.com

Social media accounts
on Instagram we’re at thebeautybrains2018
on Twitter, we’re thebeautybrains
And we have a Facebook page.

Support the Beauty Brains!
The Beauty Brains are now on Patreon! Help support us to continue to make episodes.

Thanks again for listening and remember Be Brainy about your Beauty

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Year end wrap up – episode 204

Happy New Year!

We take a look at some of the hottest trends in the beauty industry in 2019 including clean beauty, CBD, Indie beauty and waterless beauty. Then we give our predictions for the hottest trends coming in 2020.

We’ll get back to answering beauty questions in our next show.

Follow the Brains

Thanks for listening. Hey if you get a chance can you go over to iTunes and leave us a review. That will help other people find the show and ensure we have a full docket of beauty questions to answer.  

ASK A QUESTION – If you want to ask a question click this link or record one on your phone and send it to thebeautybrains@gmail.com

Social media accounts
on Instagram we’re at thebeautybrains2018
on Twitter, we’re thebeautybrains
And we have a Facebook page.

Support the Beauty Brains!
The Beauty Brains are now on Patreon! Help support us to continue to make episodes.

Thanks again for listening and remember Be Brainy about your Beauty

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On today’s episode we’re going to be answering your beauty questions about 

  1. Quality of ingredients versus price of the product?
  2. The Curly Girl Method and Parabens?
  3. What it’s like to work in the cosmetics industry
  4. Do you have to wait after applying Vitamin C?

Beauty Science News stories

Is your old makeup is contaminated? 
Here’s an interesting story which should be a wake up call to anyone who uses products that say “no preservatives” or preservative free.  It turns out even products that don’t contain water have been found to be contaminated with potentially harmful microbes.  

In this study publish in the October issue of the Journal of Applied Microbiology, researchers wanted to investigate the nature and extent of microbial contamination in five categories of used cosmetic products (lipstick, lip gloss, eyeliners, mascaras and beauty blenders) and highlight the potential risk posed to consumers in the UK.

The got samples of used products donated by consumers and analyzed them for the microbial contents.  This was done by taking a sample, plating them on microbial culture plates and then letting them grow.  Surprisingly, they found that anywhere from 79–90% of all used products were contaminated with bacteria, with bacterial loads ranging between 102 and 103 CFU per ml, beauty blenders contained an average load of >106 CFU per ml. Presence of Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli and Citrobacter freundii were detected. Fungi were also detected in all product types, and were prevalent in beauty blenders (26·58 and 56·96% respectively). Ninety‐three per cent of beauty blenders had not been cleaned and 64% had been dropped on the floor and continued to be used.

The researchers concluded that significant levels of microbial contamination occur during use of cosmetic products and presence of pathogenic organisms pose a potential risk to health.

Now, I suppose most of these products passed microbial challenge tests or were not tested because the manufacturer has the mistaken notion that products that don’t contain water do not need preservatives. But this is not true.  Don’t listen to marketers who say preservative free or even paraben free.

You should only use cosmetics that have preservatives. It is the much safer option as this study demonstrates.

Survey Says – Our Eyelids are Itchier Than Ever
According to research published in the January issue of the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, Americans are typing in the keyword “itch” to the tune of more than 18 million—with the skin on the eye/eyelids appearing at the top of the list with 3 million hits.

Two dermatologists were interviewed, where one dermatologist advocated one should avoid touching their eyelids if they’re irritated, and one should apply Aquaphor sparingly. If it gets too bad, there are prescription topicals available to ease the itch. The other dermatologist stated that you should buy his balm, which contains 1% hydrocortisone and NO irritating ingredients that other OTC hydrocortisones contain, like alcohol and petrolatum. 

While the dermatologist is in his rights to recommend hydrocortisone cream, and it’s convenient he recommends his own, he should know better that petrolatum is not an irritating ingredient. Petrolatum is actually recommended and approved by the FDA as a skin protectant. Furthermore, most creams don’t contain alcohol, as in isopropyl alcohol. They contain fatty alcohols that help structure the product to make it a cream. These are not drying and not irritating.

Beauty Questions

Question 1: Charolette – My esthetician tells me that price difference is due to the quality of the ingredients. Is that due to the quality of the ingredient?  Is that true?

No, it’s not true and let us tell you why.

Question 2: Helen asks – Hi beauty brains! I’ve started following the curly girl method, and while i’m not sure if all of the claims are well founded, but  i will say that it has sorted my itchy flakey scalp out, so i will stick with it either way. I know that we are to avoid silicones that can’t be washed out without SLS, and we shouldn’t use drying alcohols and SLS, but i’ve never heard what hair benefit avoiding parabens is meant to bring. Are they just on the ‘we hate parabens’ train? What is the claim here and is the claim correct?

Question 3: I am 28 and am considering going back to school to study chemistry and enter the cosmetic chemistry field. This would be my second B.S.  (the first being in Textiles and Apparel). I was hoping I could ask you a few questions to get an idea of what the industry is like. In your experiences, is a masters needed or will a bachelors in biochemistry or general chemistry be enough to secure a job in the industry? What are the daily tasks of a cosmetic chemist like? Is it extremely competitive to place with a company or is there a lot of opportunity? Any advice you can provide will be greatly appreciated. Looking forward to the next show!

Question 4: Love your podcast — I wish I’d known about it when I first started exploring skincare! My question is about whether it is necessary to wait 15-30 minutes after applying vitamin C. I tend to wait for at most 5 minutes due to being in a rush. Have I been diluting the effect of the vitamin C, or is the wait time a myth? Online resources seem to differ on this, and I’d really appreciate your input from a scientific perspective! Thanks so much, Sonia

Follow the Brains

Thanks for listening. Hey if you get a chance can you go over to iTunes and leave us a review. That will help other people find the show and ensure we have a full docket of beauty questions to answer.  

ASK A QUESTION – If you want to ask a question click this link or record one on your phone and send it to thebeautybrains@gmail.com

Social media accounts
on Instagram we’re at thebeautybrains2018
on Twitter, we’re thebeautybrains
And we have a Facebook page.

Support the Beauty Brains!
The Beauty Brains are now on Patreon! Help support us to continue to make episodes.

Thanks again for listening and remember Be Brainy about your Beauty

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On today’s episode we just felt like ranting!

Today we cover 3 beauty science topics that have affected the beauty world. Here you’ll get the cosmetic chemist and formulator take on the following topics:

  1. Hair dye and a link to cancer
  2. Waterless formulas and whether they are superior
  3. CBD – is it really linked to smoking weed?

Beauty Science News stories

Hair dye linked to cancer – should you be worried?

Waterless beauty products – are they better?

CBD in cosmetics – why is this ingredient linked to drugs? Also, does it do anything?

Follow the Brains

Thanks for listening. Hey if you get a chance can you go over to iTunes and leave us a review. That will help other people find the show and ensure we have a full docket of beauty questions to answer.  

ASK A QUESTION – If you want to ask a question click this link or record one on your phone and send it to thebeautybrains@gmail.com

Social media accounts
on Instagram we’re at thebeautybrains2018
on Twitter, we’re thebeautybrains
And we have a Facebook page.

Support the Beauty Brains!
The Beauty Brains are now on Patreon! Help support us to continue to make episodes.

Thanks again for listening and remember Be Brainy about your Beauty

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On today’s episode we’re going to be answering your beauty questions about 

  1. Is meadowfoam seed oil making skin less itchy?
  2. Can rinse off conditioner give you acne?
  3. Does Este Lauder own Bobbie Brown?
  4. What is Indie Beauty?
  5. What’s the deal with oils and hair?

Beauty Science News stories

What do you make of these “waiting lists” ?  

Why Tata Harper Put 72 Active Ingredients into 1 Glowifying Super-Serum

Beauty Questions

Question 1: Dear beauty brains I have keratosis Polaris on my cheeks and I have tried many products over my 50 years currently the best night time moisturizer is a pricey product by fresh called cram in seeing that contains metal foam seat oil as the first ingredient the hype of the production is noted I also use clearance gentle day cream but it is not as good as the fresh product what is it about meadow foam seed oil that helps with keeping my skin from itching and becoming inflamed? thank you so much and I really enjoy this podcast

Product discussed:  https://www.sephora.com/product/creme-ancienne-P42592

Question 2: KH wants to know – Can Rinse Out Conditioner Give You Acne?

Question 3: Hello The Beauty Brain! I have been listening to your podcast for 2 years now and I so enjoy learning the true FACTS. Hard to find the true facts at times these days. I have a question regarding Bobbie Brown 50SPF primer. I think Estée Lauder owns BB? True? Not True? Also I am wondering where else I can find another less expensive brand of primer at a 50 SPF level out there? Elf has one but it is waaayyy too light for my olive skin. Thank you for your great show! Gerry

Question 4: Deepa asks – in (a previous) episode you talked about clean beauty. I agree about the vegan or clean brands not being that much different from the bigger brands. What is an “indie” brand? I’ve heard this term but don’t really understand how it differentiates from vegan, clean, organic etc.

Question 5: Kinskihair from Instagram asks, Hi there! I’m a current hairstylist. With all the YouTubing, are oils beneficial to healthy hair and hair growth? I see a lot of DIY products and love the idea of using natural products, but is this wise? I try to promote healthy hair and want to use what is best, especially when it comes to relaxed or natural hair. The beauty business has become so overly saturated with products. It’s overwhelming.

Follow the Brains

Thanks for listening. Hey if you get a chance can you go over to iTunes and leave us a review. That will help other people find the show and ensure we have a full docket of beauty questions to answer.  

ASK A QUESTION – If you want to ask a question click this link or record one on your phone and send it to thebeautybrains@gmail.com

Social media accounts
on Instagram we’re at thebeautybrains2018
on Twitter, we’re thebeautybrains
And we have a Facebook page.

Support the Beauty Brains!
The Beauty Brains are now on Patreon! Help support us to continue to make episodes.

Thanks again for listening and remember Be Brainy about your Beauty

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